Skip to main content

I recently purchased a postwar 2350 in less than perfect condition, and so far I'm pretty happy with it. It came in the mail yesterday and as I usually do, I disassembeled and rebuilt the motor. I also cleaned the battery bracket of rust and corrosion, and tested the horn relay (I know the horn doesn't work). Everything is in working order except the horn, which I will replace later. She runs like a champ, but esthetically she could be considered a bit lacking. Is it safe to clean the sides with a toothbrush and some dawn? I don't usually clean painted postwar stuff because of fear of damage. However, this time, I want to have a great showpiece engine, as the 2350 is one of my favorite postwar prototypes. Also, the decals on the ends are a bit rough. One is better than the other, but if I replace them, I'd replace both of them. Has anyone out there done a decal replacement? If so I'd like to know how you did it, as far as removing the old decal and applying the new one, and any lessons learned. The only decal I can find doesn't have a hole for the headlight, and any insights on cutting that would also be appreciated.

Thanks much!

Zach 

Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I'm finding that each PW piece requires a certain amount of experimentation to hit upon the right cleaning method without damaging the original finish.  Whereas a weak solution of dish soap and water works safely on most, some finishes tend to be porous and trap stubborn dirt.  Unfortunately those paints are more susceptible to degrading under heavier cleansers.  Then again, some finishes, especially those found on cast parts can be practically bullet proof.  Plastic shells sometime release a rubbery mold, a common symptom as plastic gasses off, that seems to penetrate the paint, leaving the finish slightly tacky to the touch.  In this case, most liquid cleaners have no cleaning affect and often dull the finish.  I find the only way to enhance their looks is to scrub lightly with a custom made short bristled paint brush.  As opposed, certain PW items can take caustic cleaners (Whestley tire cleaner or Spray Nine ) full strength without any ill effects to color or shine.  Best to experiment, working your way up form least to most caustic.

 

Bruce

Zach, you should be able to clean the body with Dawn and a soft toothbrush.

 

As for the nose stickers - I just replaced four.  Get the stickers offered by East Coast Train Parts.  They are $13.50 a pair.  Excellent reproductions.  Pop out the headlight lens.  Peal off the old stickers and clean with Goo Gone or something similar.  Trim the new stickers, separate from the backing, line up, and apply.  Minor adjustments can be made before you really smooth them down.  Use an Exakto knife or something similar to cut out the hole for the lens.  It's not difficult and the lens lip can hide any slipups.

 

 

DSC02708

Attachments

Images (1)
  • DSC02708
Last edited by Johnsgg1



quote:
Plastic shells sometime release a rubbery mold, a common symptom as plastic gasses off, that seems to penetrate the paint, leaving the finish slightly tacky to the touch.  In this case, most liquid cleaners have no cleaning affect and often dull the finish.




 

If you are referring to the white-grey stuff that looks like mold or mildew, and appears on plastic parts, it is mold release compound. It will melt away upon (careful) application of heat from a hair dryer.

It is often seen on the black plastic truck side frames of Scout cars, and on early diesel shells. Right now I have a pair of silver / grey 2023 UP ALCOs sitting on a shelf, waiting for me to take the stuff off.

 

I have not run into a 2350 or any other EP-5 shell with the issue. Those 2023 style shells, and F3's come to mind as having the issue.

Add Reply

Post

OGR Publishing, Inc., 1310 Eastside Centre Ct, Ste 6, Mountain Home, AR 72653
800-980-OGRR (6477)
www.ogaugerr.com

×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×