3rd Rail Northern Chuff Rate/Switch Issue

I don't have this engine but maybe something like this?

Pete

Did you ask Little John to explain THAT part of the process to you?

Yes, I did, but he went a bit quickly and the description was a little vague. I was a bit embarrassed to ask him to explain again. I'm not an auditory learner. He did say that if I got the boiler off I could call him again and he would help. I was hoping not to impose on his time again. He was very nice and he helped me free of charge. I felt like I was imposing. 

Sooooooooooooooooo, I'll try myself first.

Elliot, I actually have one of my 3rd Rail GS-4's apart right now so I'll see about getting photos when I get home.   Little John knows his stuff, but sometimes he's too smart for the rest of us simple folks.  I'm with you and need visuals.

Nick

Since Sunset/3rd Rail apparently RECOMMENDED that you talk to their professional repair man, I'm confused as to why you have posted this on the OGR Forum? Do you REALLY think any of us are better than Little John?

Eliot, I am now thinking the engine may use multiple micro switches on an axle cam to produce the chuff. Adjustment likely refers to loosening mounting screws and positioning the switches closer to the cam.

I think it will be obvious after you remove the boiler. Understanding there are exceptions, most brass engines have two small screws at the back of the cab below floor level and a single large screw above the pilot truck. Hopefully John gave you some direction in this area.

Pete

Norton, good explanation. With the guys that I work with, they are at times ahead of me when I explain things. Some times I take the knowledge of train people for granted. If you look at Eliots layout he would appear to be a very capable guy to do this project. And I believe once he gets into it he will do a fine job. Call if need be Eliot and I will answer any questions you have. BF

Eliot, I just emailed you 3 photos.  One showing the cams from below, one of the actual switches triggered by the cams from above with the boiler removed and a photo from the front without the pilot where you can see the cams and switches together.  Sorry I couldn't post them as I had to send them from my phone.  Maybe you can post them if you are on an actual computer.   Anyway, this should help make sense of what Little John is referring to.   Good luck.

Nick

Norton, Sasquatch, and Audidriven, many thanks for taking the time to make specific suggestions and send photos. Most of the people here on the Forum are incredibly helpful.

Though not all intend to be helpful, I'm sure deep down. Way down, they are good people, too.

Eliot

Sorry to hear you are having problems with your new engine. The cams on the 1st or second axle drive little cherry switches. There are two, one for the 2 chuffs per rev, and the other for the 4 chuffs per rev of the driver. When you take the boiler off, you will see the tops of the switches and a mounting plate that holds them. You can loosen the screws of the mounting plate and adjust the height so that the switches get closer or further from the cams. This is the adjustment. Also, the little metal contact that the cams push on, can be bent a little to give more or less contact to the cams. I hope this helps.

If the fixes don't work for you. We would be happy to get the engine back here to fix it for you. That's our customer service.

Scott - China

I learned something!

I was trained by Mike Reagan and his guys at Tass. They would give me enough info to dive into a job and attempt to fix it. Because I went in somewhat blind I learned more then if they just told me what to do. That is what I did here with Eliot. Anybody can follow directions, but not many can think a problem thru. Eliot has my phone number                                                                     he can call me if he gets stuck.BF