721 switch

The 721 manual switches used with 711/022 switch motors can be made to be non-derailing in a similar fashion as doing the same with the 1121 switches.

What I meant were the 721 remote switches not non-derail?  The 711s definitely were.

@jps32016 posted:

What I meant were the 721 remote switches not non-derail?  The 711s definitely were.

From the factory, they are non-derail only when you can get to them fast enough to throw them by hand.

The 711 was non-derailing. Depending on early or later version the 711 the derailing may work well or have problems with a false throw while cars or engines are crossing.   See 711 notes. I have the early 711 with false throw or derailing problems.  I disconnected the built in non-derailing and set them up as shown in the 2nd diagram above.

Adding a motor to the 721 will make it switch, but they were not setup for non-derailing.  They don't have the insulated rail needed and wire runs.  They also follow the 711 early/later designs.  Trying to insulate the rails for non-derailing is a problem since the switch base will not tolerate bending the tabs open and then back closed to add insulation for the rails.   Setting them up as diagram 2 shows is my recommendation.

If you have a set of 711/721 in good shape, great.   I finally gave up on my 711 set.  Even with all my work to fix and make them reliable again, the wear was just too much to overcome on one of them.  Getting replacements in good shape is not easy.  Most replacements I find have similar or worse wear problmes.  I am converting to the new Ross tubular style switch, today.    I like to use the original Lionel track etc, but reliability and economics made the decision for me.

Thanks.  That's what I figured.  I'm using the 721s where non-derail isn't necessary. I did have to get a few ugly 5165-6s to finish with, and they're farther away from the control area.  With painted rails, ties and ballast even regular "0" looks pretty good.