A few questions.

• We added a programming track for adding engines and that works pretty good. No DCS signal on Fixed 1 of TIU 1 but the others work and show 10s. Maybe that channel's fuse is out?

Possibly, but only if you're using the Aux.Power port to power the TIU, unless teh TIU is an original Rev. G (unmarked). Rev. G TIUs didn't have fuses.

 

You should also ensure that the DCS signal is turned on for all channels:

Menu/System/DCS Setup and press the AON soft key.

• When trying to startup a known engine on most loops we get engine not found; engine not on track; the RF error. It works on 2 of 6 including the longest one.

Lots of possible reasons for this. The best thing to do is to add an 18 volt bulb (see below). If that doesn't do it, refer to the Troubleshooting section of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

• When we get something running, like the ps3 angus, and check the signal from place to place, it bounces around a lot, say from 10 to 5; or 7 to 1. This normal?

Yes, it is. Signal test should be done stationary. If, then as slowly as you can tolerate.

 

• The TIUs are old ones at 4.10. Should I buy Rev L versions? 

First, buy my book and try troubleshooting. It's a lot less expensive.

• I think I will need to replace some batteries. I have a lot of older Premier and its all been in climate controlled storage for a couple of years. Can I just buy them in bulk somewhere online on do I need to use MTtH issued batteries? I am thinking I probably need to get the MTH charger and systematically start charging the engines. Once it's been on the charger and I don't hear the sound continue after I shut the power off, I assume the battery needs to be replaced?

If charging doesn't bring it back, most any NiMH 8.4 volt rechargeable battery is a good replacement for the batteries in the 5 volt engines. I buy mine from a local "battery storeZ" for about $7.25 each.

 

Your 2.4 volt batteries in the newer 3 volt engines most likely just need a good, overnight charge.

 

• One of my EL uboats does nothing after its been charged for 8 hours. Dead engine. Should I try replacing the battery first or do the transformer reset? It's not in the remotes.

See answer above.

• One of the remotes takes a lot of pressure to push in the thumb wheel. Can that be fixed?

Yes, however, see if use loosens it up first.

 

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

Thanks. I had to buy the new book before I had enough nerve to ask the questions. More when I get back to a computer.

Lots of possible reasons for this. The best thing to do is to add an 18 volt bulb (see below). If that doesn't do it, refer to the Troubleshooting section of The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition.

 

Yup - we have the bulb on every channel. I have been reviewing the guide. Would it make sense to cut through the center rail on several spots on one loop to try to isolate the sections? We are using common bus wiring and I have like 7 feeds to the shortest loop - maybe 100' of track - a folded dogbone - almost all 40" sections. 

The best way to wire for DCS (other ways may also work just fine on some layouts) is to define track blocks and wire in a star or "home run" scheme, with one wire connection to per block. If you're wired differently, try to get a little closer to this standard. The book does a decent job of talking about track blocks and wiring.

Yes, it is. Signal test should be done stationary. If, then as slowly as you can tolerate.

 

I am doing it stationary and see the jumps up and down as I described. 

That's unusual. Stationary should yield consistent results. Have you tried using another engine or swapping to another TIU channel? If you do, remember to keep the TIU powers by either using the Aux. Power port or have power going into Fixed channel #1.

 

The book covers this kind of troubleshooting in great detail in Part IX.

"One of the remotes takes a lot of pressure to push in the thumb wheel. Can that be fixed?"

 

If the frame of the switch is cracked, additional pressure is required to push in the thumbwheel.

 

Thanks Barry - I have tried it with two engines but haven't tried different TIU channels driving that loop. I get the same signal swings in place. I figure it must be taking different paths back or is confused by too many signals. 

 

Can I still use a common/ground wire though the whole layout, or should I run a dedicated ground/common for each loop of track and tie them together back where the transformers are located?....

 

Thanks RJR - I will open it up and look.

 

I ordered a Rev L TIU and remote today.... I will need to upgrade the rest to 4.2, correct?

 

If I can just get it working solid on one loop, I will be making progress.  

Look at the thin strip that runs around the switch.  It is usually repairable with glue.  May be hard to spot the crack.

Can I still use a common/ground wire though the whole layout, or should I run a dedicated ground/common for each loop of track and tie them together back where the transformers are located?....

It's not the Common that's typically the issue. Before you do any rewiring, try a channel swap first.

I ordered a Rev L TIU and remote today.... I will need to upgrade the rest to 4.2, correct?

That would probably be best, although 4.10 and 4.20 have been known to play well together. If it were me, I'd upgrade all to 4.20.

Thanks Barry - will work on this tomorrow afternoon....

Okay - Now and I don't know why - I have 10's all the way around on one loop..... pretty cool.... still need to work on the rest...

 

A question though - I noticed that if I power up one side of the Z4000 and then touch the other positive post, my voltage tester lights up.... Tried it on all 3 Z4000's and it works this way.... This okay?

If you mean that you are touching the red terminal on each of the two handles, then that's fine.

 

What you're seeing is the difference in potential (voltage) between the two handles, one of which is set to some voltage and the other of which is set to zero.