I have a bunch of Lionel O gauge tube track and want to use some of it up for a project, but I don't have any O gauge O42 Dia. curves. I looked at fleabay and the O27 curves are way cheaper than the O gauge curves, so my question is, is the diameter of the O27 track pins the same as the O track pins? If the diameter is different, i'd rather just buy the O gauge track rather than have to buy adapter pins to mount the two types of track together. Any help will be appreciated.
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It is unrecommended, but you can use O-27 pin in o-gauge track, with a bit of work, or so i have read.
Hi, I tried everything you can think of with many track systems. I even used cut off nails as pins for O and O-27 track but in the end the proper pin is always best.
As for O-27 and O gauge the pins are definitely different sizes and will not mate up properly.
Like I said above I'll try anything for the fun of it but the work involved is just not worth the cost of the correct part. Good luck and have fun.
Although this part is offered, it will be quite a bump at the transition point due to a design flaw.
It really should be offset, like the GarGraves adapter pins.
You can make your own by starting with three "O" pins, and grind one end(to the half way point) of each 3/4 of the way around to match the diameter of the O-27 track pins/openings.
If you instead grind them to the center like the above Lionel pins, there will be a significant "bump" at the transition.
For an example of this "offset" method, look closely at the GarGraves "O" & O-27 adapter pins:
![CropperCapture[26]](https://ogrforum.com/fileSendAction/fcType/0/fcOid/39722753415286501/filePointer/39722753430200208/fodoid/39722753430200182/imageType/LARGE/inlineImage/true/CropperCapture%255B26%255D.jpg "CropperCapture[26]")
I had one layout with a mixture of "O" and "027" track. I just squeezed down the opening in the "O" track to accept the smaller pins.
I did this by putting 027" pins in the opening, and squeezing the web underneath the rounded part with a pair of needle nose pliers. The pliers had a slight taper, so I worked them in further and further, until the pin was held tight.
The transition was smooth.
Thanks for the replies. I'll probably just pony up the extra dough for the O gauge curves. In the long run it sounds easier to do it that way.
I made my own since the commercially available ones aren't exactly inexpensive.
A big consideration, one which I did not think of until AFTER I made them, is what Rob stated. As shown in the pictures I rounded off one end and did so equally around - a bad, bad decision since it created the 'hump/bump' that Rob described.
I had to make new ones - luckily I tested after I made just 3 so I was quick to discover the error of my ways!
As you can see in the last picture, there is quite a difference in heights - I landed up putting bracing under the O27 track.
Another consideration is that unless you keep all of the O27 track at the same 'O' height, the O27 track will dip down to table level creating a bit of a 'ramp'.
- walt
I would recommend going with O if that is what you already have. It is possible to mate 027 to O, and you can handle the height difference using roadbed (taller under the 027, shorter under the O) and use ballast to hide the differences in the ties, but it is a lot of work for a couple of bucks saved, to be honest. O track is so plentiful, that if you keep your eyes open you probably won't spend much more compared to O27, and it is worth it to keep it visually the same.
I wouldn't even consider mixing 0 and 027 track on the same line. Pay the extra few dollars for the correct, matching 042 curves. It's worth it.
Actually, forcing the O pins into O-27 at the transitions works quite well, and the bump is reduced to the slight difference in sheet metal gauge used to form the rails.
My advice: Spring for the O gauge track! :-)
As Rob said, force the "O" pins into the "O27" track. It gives a smoother transition than the other way round. It will help if you open the "O27" track tube up just a bit using an awl. Once the pin is seated in the "O27" rail, crimp the rail with a pair of track pliers. Which brings us to another subject.
I have two pair of lineman's pliers. One pair is used for "O" track, the other for "O27". I made them myself. Simply lay the pliers flat. With the jaws held in the closed position, drill a hole near the end of the jaws corresponding in size with either an "O" pin or "O27" pin. Now you can tighten the pins in the rails using the proper size pair of pliers.
Just buy the regular O gauge track pins and be done with it!! Remember you get what you pay for and there really is no cheating with track pin sizes.
I have tried a few methods mentioned and they don't work right all the time or will end up derailing your engines with sensitive wheelsets, mainly MTH engines will derail.
Lee Fritz
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Tinplate Art posted:My advice: Spring for the O gauge track! :-)
If the budget allows.
phillyreading posted:Just buy the regular O gauge track pins and be done with it!! Remember you get what you pay for and there really is no cheating with track pin sizes.
Sure there is!
beertrain posted:Thanks for the replies. I'll probably just pony up the extra dough for the O gauge curves. In the long run it sounds easier to do it that way.
This will result in the most grief free scenario.
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