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I decided to give these LED strips a try on my 18"K-Line circus cars and for about $7 a piece you can't go wrong. The strips come with peel and stick tape and you can put them on the roof of the car. The resistor is already installed with a hot and ground wire. I took a piece of 3/16" heat shrink tube and covered the resistor just as a safety. The 2 wires just to keep the install neat I put a length of 1/16"heat shrink on the length of the wires except for about 2" at the end to attach to my power source. After sticking the LED strip to the roof I soldered in my two wires into the existing hot and ground in the car. My cars have silhouette figures so I decided to cut a strip of wood from the craft store and hot glue it down over the old sockets that use to house the bayonet bulbs. I took some "Duct" brand reflective tape and put it on the wood strip for the LED's to reflect off of.The strip of wood can not be seen threw the frosted windows.  The strips for the money work well. They could maybe be a tad brighter but still a good glow under lower light levels.    For a more economical way to have LED's in you passenger cars or where ever you want a little extra light.    Here are some pics of what I used. Here is what the cars look like with no flash on the camera.  

 

 

Last edited by Chris Lonero
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Originally Posted by kj356:

They look great;

? details on the light strips where did you get them?

Are they already set up for AC current?

As normally they run on DC. 12 volts max.

 

Thank you. I got them from forum sponsor Custom O Decals. They run on AC current and I'm using them in a command environment. 18v to the track. So far so good! Here is the link. 

 

 

http://www.lbrenterprisesllc.com/-O--Stuff.html

Last edited by Chris Lonero

Nice job Chris,  thanks for sharing............  this will work well for two of the Union Pacific early 18" aluminum sets with the old bayonet bulbs.   I love LED lighting!

 

Off topic train wise but I was an early adopter for LED lighting in the home now 4+ years ago.   I save on average $30 per month going LED.   Much less energy use and cooler to the touch overall.      Good stuff.............  Mark

Originally Posted by Passenger Train Collector:

Very clean installation, Chris. You mentioned that you would like the light to be more brilliant. Knowing this, would you convert additional cars the same way?

Hi Brian.  Yes I would use them again. They could be a tad brighter for a silhouette passenger car with frosted glass but I would not call them too dim.It is an acceptable amount of light.I think in a car with a full interior they would be just right. I would rather a softer light rather than a overly bright interior that totally looks unrealistic.

Originally Posted by Chris Lonero:
Originally Posted by Passenger Train Collector:

Very clean installation, Chris. You mentioned that you would like the light to be more brilliant. Knowing this, would you convert additional cars the same way?

Hi Brian.  Yes I would use them again. They could be a tad brighter for a silhouette passenger car with frosted glass but I would not call them too dim.It is an acceptable amount of light.I think in a car with a full interior they would be just right. I would rather a softer light rather than a overly bright interior that totally looks unrealistic.

Makes sense.  I think a toned down light would be more realistic than some of the bright factory installed lights.

Thank you for posting detailed photos.

 

While you will probably never have to open up the car again, for anyone embarking on a silhouette car conversion here's an idea.  If you have sacrificial or burned-out bulbs, you can carefully break the glass and connect the 2 wires from the lighting strip to the bulb base.  This way you can disconnect the shell/ceiling from the chassis/floor.

 

ogr%20bayonet%20to%20wire%20adapter

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That's a good idea Stan! Great use of a broken bulb."I have plenty of those" I had plenty of extra wire so I just melted a little insulation off the hot and ground wire to the old lights and soldered the new wires to both of them. Depending on the application like an engine for service down the road I have used these male/female connectors from Evan Design.

 

 

Last edited by Chris Lonero

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