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Well it quit working Again! (6-12782)

I know it's a POS, But I don't want a static display and I'm not going to shelve it or throw it away. Can't sell a broken item either

Here is the latest problem, as far as I know, Control box connected to bridge via ribbon cable, and wall wort providing 14vac pwr.

When control box is switched to on, Nothing, (no lights, sound, -bridge or box-) After opening control box, there is voltage through the switch and out the ribbon cable, to the 'Main Board' in the bridge tower.

Now here is a clue, when I disconnect the cable at J4 on the Main board, the green down light will come on at the control box.

My unprofessional thought is maybe a bad transistor or maybe a bad relay or .......

I could try to replace some components on the PCB, but which ones?

Any of you fellas out there care to point me in the right direction?

(main board photos attached)

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  • 20250109_082943
  • 20250109_083015
Last edited by ZAK
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Zak,

In case this didn't happen already during the last thread, it's likely the main on/off rocker switch on the controller has died.

This happened with mine right after I bought it from a fellow forum member. Unfortunately, this is a common ailment with these bridges. Doesn't help the controller box isn't replaceable really.

The bright side is this should be an easy fix. Just solder a wire under the rocker switch to jump the power past it. The downside is you'll need a manual way to switch the power on/off like from a separate power strip.

I should note I power my bridge just using the main power supply and use the sensors for insulated sections just before the bridge.

Last edited by Mikado 4501

It looks to me that you may have had something burn up on the PCB. I have uploaded your pics on which I marked where I think the burn occurred, possibly causing the trace to become open circuit.

If you have an ohm meter, you visually follow the trace from the corner of the board to the nearest connection (looks like its on one of the connectors) and then measure the resistance - 0 ohms good, open bad.

You can also sniff the board, as some electronics have a distinctive odor when burned.

Unfortunately, if the trace is open, putting in a wire to replace the trace may cause more problems than the one you are trying to fix. If a component shorted, causing the high current flow to burn open the trace, then putting in the wire would just reestablish the current flow and you might burn out more components.

Lift Bridge Main PCB top

Lift Bridge Main PCB bottom

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  • Lift Bridge Main PCB bottom
  • Lift Bridge Main PCB top

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Thanks Mikado 4501,

I did have continuity on the switch, also while 'on' I have voltage there. I may replace the switch anyway.

Q: "....I power my bridge just using the main power supply ....." How did you accomplish this?



MED,

I did repair that area, and have continuity through it. The 'cause' is up for debate, but it does tie to the 'sensors'

It did work after the repair, But, I think you maybe on to something with it taking out another component, or at least weaking one!

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