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In April ‘19, I thought how cool it would be to graduate from building the layout to building rolling stock.  I had never built any actual trains for the layout and wanted to explore this.  I found a great deal for a kit on the bay, Ambroid NKP plate caboose, O-10, which I had no business buying with no NKP engines on my roster at the time.  A few weeks later, I became interested in a steam era Northern Pacific caboose, with none available except brass models at about $400, and I ran across another caboose kit on the bay for the Northern Pacific kit, Ambroid O-13.  The bug bit me again in May ‘19 for another caboose kit, a C&O wood sheathed caboose from Quality Craft.  All of these kits were designed to be 2 rail, with no windows or trucks included.   These three kits from the 70’s (?) sat in their boxes for a while.  

In July of 19’, I ended up getting a DMIR caboose from Malcome (Brother Love on OGR) shown below.  What a beautiful model!  What a great inspiration to get started on my caboose kits, but just never did.  The painting is fantastic on this model of his!

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Then COVID restrictions hit in March.  With a lack of options to satisfy the train fix, I decided to start the NKP caboose in April.  The kit was a craftsmen kit,  not designed to have inside access to the interior when complete, so I started down the path where the top would be assembled separately to help with windows later on.   I made good progress on this for a while, and besides the modifications so the roof would be removable, basically built it to the plan set except modifications to allow the atlas three rail truck bolsters to more closely hug the under carriage.  There were allot of compromises with the undercarriage detail to allow these track the clearance they needed.  I had a lot of issue gluing the white metal pieces in place.  At the time, I wasn’t planning on doing anything with the interior and got about 90% complete and was not ready to commit to painting it.  I recently had several bad experiences with paint when working with my son on his rocket kits.  With out confidence to paint this yet, I moved on to the next kit.FCF6FD3C-E0AA-4602-B734-F4E27D2BA0D6A085F706-29F1-443D-B738-8CF21232DC44F2DB16C4-7D81-4D3F-A9E2-6527C2E2131AA7637C9E-2ED9-40A5-A4E9-C87819F4CDA9



In May, I decided to start on the Northern Pacific kit next.  When starting the kit, I followed the directions and cut out the windows and then noticed the picture included with it didn’t match plan sets with regards to window arrangements.  I attempted to change it.  In researching it, I had no idea there were so many different window arrangements.  Along with this I seemed to find allot of exceptions to the plan sets when looking at the picture included with it.  In attempt to match the picture I manage to cut windows out to match the picture and I also cut down door size.

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Then, after applying the sanding sealer and sanding several times with steel wool, I was ready to assemble the kit so it’s roof was also removable.  As I started to assemble it, I realized I miss measured the caboose sides.  Bummer..  With the caboose already looking like Swiss cheese, I contemplated getting another kit to replace it, or ordering styrene and attempting to start over.  I ended up going the styrene route, and also ordered a bunch of detail parts as well, such as nut-bolt- washer combinations introduced to me from Malcome (Brother love on OGR).  After the supplies arrived, I decided to do the entire caboose out of styrene.  The coupla windows were the hardest to cut out where the top and bottom edges are curved and the windows should plum. After four completed couplas that were all scrapped later, I gave up and rolled with my last one.  For the roof, I glued several preformed styrene curved roof pieces together.  I first used the water heater as a curve and then transitioned to a paint can, where I heated up the styrene taped to the surface and let it cool.


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The directions had you use wire for the platform hand rails, but I could not find a single picture where NP herald was used with wire hand rails, they all looked to use iron stock.  The only tools I had for any of these cabooses was a power drill, a micro hand drill, a dremel, a knife and a t-square.  I cut out the end platform rails from brass stock and soldered them together.   While not perfect, they seemed to capture the prototype much better. I should have not used the white metal ladders provided in the kits as they are difficult to glue to and cannot be soldered to.  I also built the roof walks where they sit on top of brass nubs so they can be removed and reattached for painting.

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The included smoke stack with NP caboose kit looked way under size to me.  I tried ordering several smoke stacks, and none of them looked right after receiving them.  I think that is the toughest part in these projects, in finding the right part with out seeing it in person first.   I made several attempts to create my own using various brass stock and white metal castings shown in pic below (the upper three).  I ended up using one of my home made ones, the very top one.  The 2nd and 3rd from the top I ended up using on the other two cabooses over the stock ones provided in the kit.

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Once again, with most of caboose completed, and afraid to paint again,  I started on the 3rd caboose in September, the C&O one.  I decided to do a bit of hybrid and make the roof out of styrene.  I mis interpreted the initial pictures I saw on line of the roof being very thick, as opposed to only the out side edge.  I thought if the whole roof had several preformed styrene roof pieces glued together, that it would look better and be stronger. I used the same approach of preheating it on a curved surface.   I found it difficult to get the same curved roof for the whole length of the caboose, so there is a slight warp in it.  I gave up on using the white metal ladders and bought several different brass ones.  What a huge improvement that I should have done sooner.  I also made rerailer racks for under the caboose and added the aftermarket rerailer.

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In the last couple of pictures you can see the lanterns as well that I bought separately.  I soldered a brass tube with a ID of 1mm to one of the lenses which protrude into the caboose for mount the lenses and large enough to allow a micro bulb or LED.  I also went back and added these to the NP caboose.  The NKP caboose had marker lights included, I did my best in drilling them out for lenses and added them to the caboose coupla.E201F31B-3337-4D8B-8A3E-8A5315550E2F5A593975-17C0-4AE1-88AD-6A1BAFFD4253A7C139CB-C9F0-4A8B-A859-4DB20D6E350E



I thought at this point I was out of things to do and left to finally tackle the painting.  After looking inside my Lionel B&O I12 caboose recently, the interior looked so nice, I decided to go ahead with full interiors.  As I thought this out more, if I ever planned to do interiors in the future, it would be tough to come back and  paint them with out breaking details items off disassembling and reassembling along with dealing with windows.

Since Thanksgiving, I have been working on building interiors for these cabooses.  Images are shown below.  For each of them, I made the interior removalable so I could paint them easier.  The interiors have been based on the actual proto types based on some images posted by others on the forum as well as online images.  I have not worked out if I will add windows frames on the interior.  I suspect I may cause more problems installing them and I am not sure how noticeable they would be when looking in.

NP Caboose
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NKP Caboose

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C&O Caboose

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For each of these cabooses, all the little stuff adds up.   I have been working on these a little bit a time for months.  The more costly brass cabooses seem like a good value when looking for specific prototypes not already mass produced, especially  when factoring in the extras and labor.  I am also finding the Atlas 3rail caboose trucks, while nice, are not right for several of these caboose prototypes.58083D2A-6D7A-47A1-84FE-8636701C3939

Left to do on the three cabooses.
-I need to build some rough stoves for each of the cabooses

-Actually mount the trucks.

-Work out how the wires and power bus will be integrated from the trucks to the marker and interior lights.  I plan to use some thin sheet brass to along the walls for this.

-Make a decision on LEDs or incandescents and a circuit to light them.  I really like the look of the incandescents, but LEDs hopefully would never need to be replaced.  I am little concerned on the NP caboose being styrene and any potential heat associated with a circuit issue.

-Order and add chains to the C&O caboose platform (not included with caboose)

-Paint the interiors/exteriors.  I am by no means an expert with the Air Brush and acrylics.  I have been using a testors Aztec brush in the past, with mixed results.  I have an Iwata received as a gift last year still in the box that I need to get and play with it.

-Make a decision on the window material and install them

With a little luck, maybe I will finish them all before a year goes by (April), when I started the first one.

I also have 4th kit picked up on the cheap recently (image below) if I remain squeamish on the painting.  Seriously, I have a commitment to myself to finish the three kits before moving on. I would really like to start a N&W wood sheathed caboose kit in the near future if I could find one....

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I thought others might be interested In this journey and might pursue something similar.  

After I started these, there has been an awesome thread on OGR with an Erie caboose that it’s peices were built using software and I think a laser, where once cut out, the various pieces basically snapped together with a little glue.  Very cool technologies for more quickly producing small runs of specific prototypes.  

I welcome any feedback or suggestions on the journey remaining for me here.  Thanks for following along!

Mike

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike
Original Post

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Really great to see someone building kits here!!!

Might want to replace that brake wheel in the above photo; what's there is more of a later Ajax system that would be on a brake stand, not a shaft.  One the spiral spoke styles would be better.

You need other parts, just post up what you are looking for - most everything is "out there".

Thanks for the feedback all.

Buzz, looking forward to seeing your NP caboose build.

Pat, I always enjoy your posts on steam engine overhauls.  Probably my favorite threads to follow.  Someday I would like to explore making those mods once I have some better tools.

mwb, I agree.  Funny story on that, the wheel in the NP caboose looked huge to me, so I order a smaller one, and replaced the one on NKP caboose later on with the original one from the NP caboose shown below.  I did not know the reason why it was wrong, Thanks!

NP SHOWN WITH NEW ORDERED WHEEL

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NKP SHOWN WITH ORIGINAL WHEEL

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NKP SHOWN WITH UPDATED WHEEL FROM NP KIT

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Paul, yes, the emergency response was called for the woman,  but this stop in the town of “Compromise” is in the sticks and their response time is slow.  Apparently the man on the platform chose to ignore her calls.

Randy, funny enough on the bay now are three of the four caboose kits shown in my posts above, the NP, NKP and the ATSF caboose kits.

Alex, thanks for nice comments.  Looking forward to seeing more progress updates on your layout.

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

It has been a few weeks since I had a chance to work on this. In the mean while, while doing some cleaning, i broke one the whitemetal cast ladders.  I have a set of white metal ladders from another kit to use, but will need to replace them.  As i mentioned in the thread above, I have not had good luck in locating individual parts, and would like to replace it with brass.  I would prefer something I can cut length.   Any leads of replacements would be great.  Pictures below of what I am trying to replace.

Thanks!E9596FF7-F3FF-4984-934E-BD08EB42FA1E5FDF899A-354A-4317-8B92-BE9684B49807

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Nice work!

Re ladders....  You might want to consider Precision Scale.  Here's a link to their website.  You can download the catalogs and price sheets.  Ladders are on pg 64 of the O scale frt/pass catalog...

PSC Ladder Link

BTW...You mentioned the Ambroid ATSF Caboose kit.  I've built two...

Caboose Front - CopyCaboose Lights 1 - Copy

and...

ATSF-Caboose-1ATSF-Caboose-2

...the latter a straight kit build, the first one an ATSF variant of the type...one less window, steel reinforcing strip along the middle of both sides (styrene embossed w/rivet detail.  Both feature LED markers w/onboard battery power (removable side for replacement access, neodymium magnets) and a small on/off switch w/easy finger reach while the car is on the tracks...

Caboose Int 2

Original batteries have yet to be replaced....unless I forget to turn off at the end of operation someday ().

Looking forward to seeing your finished projects!

KD

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Last edited by dkdkrd

Like I said, had troubles in the past ordering ladders as none of these catalogs specify their size.  I have tried both the  1462 d&rg ladder and others from PSC, but they seem to be short for the plan sets provided in the kits.  On my C&O caboose mentioned above I ended up using the wise man box car ladders (BS-120 7' & 9' LONG WINE STYLE LADDERS) and  cutting them to length. I not picky about the details on the ladder itself, but the box car ladders seem a bit wide.  

i have run into another issue.  I was using plastic  eye bolts for holding the uncoupler bars (rods) on and I am finding they are very week and susceptible to being broken as I test run the cabeese around the layout.  Are there brass or preformed wire one available?

KD,

Your cabooses look fantastic!  Did you use the white metal ladders?  Really jealous of the trucks on your cabooses and would like something similar for my NP caboose. Did you mount the three rail couplers separately or were they part of the truck?   Where do you get them from?

Thanks!

Mike

Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

Mike...

Thanks for the nice compliment!  I absolutely LOVE building those kits!

I used the white metal ladders.  They're bored to receive wire braces into the die cast end sill at the bottom, extensions (roof handrails) at the top.

Trucks/couplers?...  Forgot all about those!  The basic archbar trucks are Athearn w/Intermountain O2R 33" wheel sets (Work just fine on Gargraves/Ross rail).  Coil springs replaced with PSC leaf springs.  The Weaver die cast couplers are separately mounted to the floor/centersill with bent wire centering springs.   

BTW...  Martin's suggestion to make your own 'boose ladders from brass strip/wire stock is a good one.  Not that hard if you've mastered the pin vise and drill bits in the #65-80 range.  (Soft music, a glass of wine has helped me through those times!)  Learned some neat tricks along the way, too.

KD

Have been following your progress. Great work it takes time but worth the effort. Love the details you doing and sharing the your progress. Scratch building is sometimes more fun then the kits.

If you can find a color that matches I have used extensively the Tamiya spray cans they have paint for plastics and other types. It goes in smooth with light coat applications and dry's very  fast for the next coats.

Plastruct has some ladders that you might find of use in the future and there are some mini doll house cheap packs of furniture that can be found with a hunt that have pot belly stoves tables and other small bits that I have found of use in the past for interior detail parts. And for lights I have used the Evans LED's for variable voltages but they are bright.

https://evandesigns.com/produc...eds-for-transformers

It’s been awhile since my last update.  This will be a two part post.

Since last time, I was able to test the truck fit for all the cabooses and drag them around the layout.  This was important because the goal has always been to have three rail trucks and eliminate as many compromises in having them.

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Also built some make rough stoves from styrene and beads from my kids.

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I also decided on using a small voltage regulator for power with a diode for some small leds on the interior.  I really needed a circuit that would not produce any heat as I was installing it with the styrene caboose and was afraid of melting it.  I then changed course and decided I wanted it to be small enough to mount to the truck.  I ended up using a larger resistor than pictured below.

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With these items addressed, i painted the interior and the exterior 12CD6C0D-158C-4DB9-BC2D-B6B9C0D6684C759F074E-192E-41A5-8A0D-83A09D9E02C7

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Things were going pretty well at this point and then I started the exterior.  I ran into many problems using the airbrush and acrylics.  At first I put too much on causing runs. I got that under control and then found that my windows were 1/64th off in their height making the white strip I made a great reference for exploiting this error.  I decided to raise the white stripe to be above the windows so this error was not so pronounced.  The cupola of the caboose did not have a white layer under it so the red didn’t match the red on the bottom of the caboose.  Basically I started over again apply more paint.  There are so many layers of paint, many of the details are lost.  The boarded up windows worked great in keep paint out of the inside, until I had an over spray issue which required the hand painting of window frames from the inside.  I was able to finally get a decent bass paint scheme.  I then painted the hand rails ( too large by the way) yellow.  I could use better way of doing this as it went on to thick using a brush with heavy paint along the the rod.  Too thin of paint never seemed to coat right.  I ended up doing two coats of the thicker paint.

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Applied gloss cote and decals.

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I used Lexan for the windows and then completed the interior details.  I took some liberties of adding maps and a calendar.  I also added a lamp.  While not my best work and sloppy mistakes, I still like it.  The next two caboose will be much better.

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finished the lights and assembling EF401946-F738-4FB0-8DF4-C7B01236DFFB256DDB46-9C70-4EAD-A013-885310F7B9C163F380C3-3D79-4A7D-A36E-C82A67DDC868CC1B6A90-B118-4372-8D24-B15EFB34B03D

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

Looking for advice from other modelers on how to improve the issues I ran into with caboose:

1. Can a satin finish be applied instead of dull coat, if so what product do you use?

2. What is the best method for painting hand rails?

3. How do marker lights get colored, what products are you using for the colored lenses, I feel like the clear red from tamiya is too orange, and the clear green from tamiya is not blue enough for convincing green?

4. Are there better options for a regulated 5v circuit that remains small but doesn’t produce heat.  I am on the fence if I want more light out of the leds or not.  Right now they are on basically on half of the time because of the diode.  Being that all three cabooses are either wood or plastic ( no metal), heat is a concern for me.  Adding  a capacitor to this one pulls more current and then generates heat and then also required a choke for dcs.  Full wave rectified introduces more current, and need to change to a bigger regulator.

Lessons learned on first caboose build:

1. Larger decals where allot of the decal has no graphics but instead used for word spacing is better cut out ( like the nickel plate road in the middle caboose).  I definitely recommend using decal set to help snuggle down the decals.

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2. When gluing the two piece sheets of the wood sides out of the kit, sand one edge at an angle to produce a board crack, other wise the middle board will look double thick.  Error can be seen in picture above as well.

3. Paint the ENTIRE caboose in layers so any under coat layers effect the paint above equally.  Use several super light coats first for each new color, or instead have chunks of paint between  boards as seen in my pictures and  lose wood texture,.

4. Pin heads for door knobs seem nice and cheap.

5. When dull coating over testor’s gloss, do not use testor’s dull coat out of the can, horrible finish.  Recommend tamiya dull coat or testor’s dull coat airbrushed on.

6. Lexan windows seems to work well, as they are cheap and cut easily with a snap.  Be sure to keep cynaoacrylate away from them, the fumes alone cause issues.  First time for me using canopy glue for windows and it worked great.

7. Abandon any white metal ladders and get brass ones instead, too fragile.

8. items on this caboose that were not included in kit are, door knobs, the nkp decal set used, smoke chimney, lantern lenses, smaller brake wheels, trucks, any interior features, lights windows, caboose corners and  nut-bolt-washer sets.

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

Mike, your God given skills really show with your current caboose projects.  Thank you for sharing.

Unlike Ambroid and Quality Craft, it should be noted that LaBelle Woodworking Company is still in business in Century 21, offering craftsman kits in both O and HO scale.  Not only "steam railroad" era kits are available but traction as well.

Their slogan says it all:  "Nothing is as good as wood"

Happy Rails

Joe

Mike, I agree, your work is incredible. Great to see this here.

Regarding marker lenses, I started using flatback rhinestones. I have used clear stones in engine class lights with green LEDs but you can also get colored ones.

One example:

https://www.amazon.com/Outuxed...21-8624-135149aa9081

Far ladders, I am a proponent of “If you can buy them, then buy them” but have made my own using brass flat bar stock and wire. Tedious to drill but you can better match the prototype vs store bought ones. K&S offers small stock for the rails.

Pete

Mike,

Your cabooses are works of art!  I have always been intimidated by the wood kits but you have nailed it!  For satin finish I use the bottles of glosscote and dullcote.  I mix it 1/3 GC, 1/3 DC and 1/3 lacquer thinner. It goes on smooth and dries almost instantly.  Do not use it on a day with high humidity, it will not work. I learned the hard way about that.

Again, beautiful job,

Malcolm

It has been a while since I posted an update on my caboose builds.  I missed my goal of completing all three from a year of starting them, but I have made allot of progress recently.

An issue I was trying to solve before was a location for metal eyebolts.  I was not able to bend the brass rod tight enough to make it look good.  What I found instead ( and was holding progress up until resolved) was this fishing hook model below.  Just the right size eye hook.  Also shown is it on the caboose.

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I first started with the NP caboose.  This order seems backwards, but I have found you need to start by paint the interior walls and window frames, so they can be masked when painting the outside, and provide a clean distinction with the paint for the inside and outside edges.  I went through a few iterations of the interior paint.  I saw several photos of yellow interior online and started with that, but then settled on the light green and brown.

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For the out side color, I set up some test samples as I wasnt sure what color I wanted, but targeting between the light tuscon oxide red (on the right below) and the dark tuscon oxide red (on the left below) from badger.  Middle right is a 50/50 mix of them and middle left is 66%dark and 33%light mix.  I settled on the 50/50

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I decide to paint the roof black and roof walks caboose body color.  Having the roof walks attached on to brass pins I made made it easy to paint them the different roof color and then accurately place them back on with out sloppy glue mistakes.3F2B4122-3810-4C7A-A689-26BCF47C629D

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I painted the roof black, glued the walkways and put the gloss coat on.  Things were going great to this point.  The. I then started on the decals.  

I bought separate decals from Protocraft and was excited about them as they look really nice, even including paint mask marks on the herald.  I placed the herald on one side, blotted the water out and then used decal set on it and it came out great, i then moved on to the other side , and this time is moved on me.  At this point disaster set in and tried to remove the decal using the same decal set solution.  In the process of this removed the clear coat.  Very frustrating.  Since I messed up one herald, I decided I would remove the other one as well, as it was little off in placement.C9932C88-DFBD-4A8A-B561-7B40BAAB138A

i then sanded down the surface to help blend the distinction of where the clear coat was missing and repaint it.1CE62A4E-66E5-4D3D-AD5A-11C58C29B8C3

It looked good and put another clear coat, and all of the lines demarking where the clear coat was removed appeared again.  I then skipped the light blending with the sand paper and took some parts back to the bare styrene.   Repainted and regloss coated it.  It came out all right, but at this point, the paint build up on details is starting to get thick, and because of using styrene, no easy way to strip it.

New decals arrived, I ordered two sets this time in case of another issue.  I managed to mess this up again.  This time after the herald was blotted dry, used the solve set on the edges, and I believe as the capillary action took place sucking the fluid under the decal, I think it did this from both side, accumulating several air pockets as each side raced to the center along where the vertical boards run.  I cut the air pockets with a knife and then the solve set shrunk the decal a bit as it dried and amade the cut much more noticeable.  I tried putting pieces of the second decal set over the marred one on the caboose with some limited successes.  At this point, I needed to concede this was good enough.  I think these decals are really nice, but they also are very thin and more difficult to work with.  The decal set covers most variations of this caboose along with different dated markings, but wish the decal set came with better instructions on where they should be placed as some of the decals I could barely read with a magnifying ifine glass until they were already placed on the caboose.

In the process of doing this, I manage to scratch the top of the caboose.  I feathered in some black paint with my air brush and and re gloss coated to help with matching the rest of the roof, another disaster as I put it on too thick with the rattle can, and then cloudiness appeared after it was dry.  I did this over a 2nd time by feathering the black with the airbrush again and this time opted to just wait for the final finish coat and hope for the best.  Once again, way too much paint for details on the roof, with all of my intentional scratches in the styrene roofwalks simulating wood were filled in.  I decided to do some texturing with paint instead.  I then did a clear coat of 1/3 gloss, 1/3 dull, 1/3 lacquer thinner.  This final finish came out much nicer than NKP plate caboose dull coat only finish.  I still desire a smoother clear coat with the same  reflective properties.  Something I wish I knew more about how to improve on.

I also added some more details to the interior.  Still needing to be done is adding windows and lanterns.  I am having issues locating gem colors I like for the lanterns.  I also tried painting the clear lens with the tamiya red and green clear acrylics, and they look washed out when a led is used to light them.  I need to figure something out here still.  I plan to put completing this build on hold for a bit to see if I can locate some reasonable prices arch bar trucks for this in the next month or so.



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I also made good progress on the C&O caboose I have been building.   I started with the interior again first and then moved to the exterior.  The first color I used on the exterior was soo line red from badger.  For some reason it looked awfully orange and I repainted it to caboose red from badger.  I did better job this time (referencing the NKP build above) in keeping the paint coat light on the cast sides of the coupla so the individual boards could be seen still.  This build went fairly well except again with the decals.  I used the 50 year old decals that came with the kit as I could not locate any other source for them.  They did not want to release from paper and also seemed to tear very easily.    Because some of the decals were pieced back together on the caboose, when using the decal set, they seem to move on me again.  In the process of this, i some how brushed one of the build date decals off with my sleeve, and not to be found again.  Another concession, as this was left off as not sure where to buy a replacement.  This caboose still needs windows, and I have the same caboose marker lamp lens issue here as the NP caboose I need to resolve.  I think the C&O maybe be my favorite of the three.7A78783B-4589-4B1E-B58B-AC84433EA49D6758B9FE-3B57-45FD-B1E7-B61200CE07F7B5DC15A3-715E-45EF-A812-4C387E264D32E0D6DFC6-C249-4700-8A6D-11B9AB5880A1

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Looking to start the ATSF one next.

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

Beautiful work!!!!!

I've been of the Forum for a while so I didn't see this thread until now.  You had some questions:

1. Can a satin finish be applied instead of dull coat, if so what product do you use?

     Testor's dull coat can be mixed with gloss coat to get a satin.  The ratio depends on what effect your going for

2. What is the best method for painting hand rails?

    You can use Scalecote 1 as a primer.  It's designed to stick to brass.  Have  tried making your railings out of phosphor bronze wire?  It hold up much better to being handled Tichy Train Group sells it.

3. How do marker lights get colored, what products are you using for the colored lenses, I feel like the clear red from tamiya is too orange, and the clear green from tamiya is not blue enough for convincing green?

   I use MV Lenses in my marker lights.  The are molded in rad and green plastic.  They have a silver foil backing that you will have to remove if you wish to light them.  I use SMD 0603 warm white LED's and solder 0.008" motor wire to them (This takes practice).  If you twist the two motor wire leads together it looks like O Scale flex conduit.  You and wire the marker light conduit and run the current through it

4. Are there better options for a regulated 5v circuit that remains small but doesn’t produce heat.  I am on the fence if I want more light out of the leds or not.  Right now they are on basically on half of the time because of the diode.  Being that all three cabooses are either wood or plastic ( no metal), heat is a concern for me.  Adding  a capacitor to this one pulls more current and then generates heat and then also required a choke for dcs.  Full wave rectified introduces more current, and need to change to a bigger regulator.

      I've struggled with this.  Going from 18 VAC down to the 3.2 to 3.4 VDC for the LED creates a lot of heat.  Typically I use 7 LEDs in a caboose.  I wire them in series so that's about 24 VDC.  If your track voltage is 18 VAC you just need a bridge rectifier and a capacitor.  If 18 VAC goes into the bridge rectifier you will get 24 VDC if you put a capacitor across the output.   You can power the LED string  with just two components and no heat.

Dave,

Thanks for the responses above.  It has been while since I posted an update and missed these.  One of my outstanding items are the lantern lenses.  I was put on to rhinestones with out backs and have not been able to find the blueish green and deep red with out ordering thousands.  Matter of fact, I ordered a set aqua green, loved them so I ordered deep red from the same vendor.  Two months later, I finally resolved the lack of shipment from the ebay seller and still looking for another supplier.  The silver backed ones I have used with limited luck in doing an adequate job in getting the back paint off of them.  Looking for a link to a good replacement product….



Moving Forward,

Since my last update, I had been working out some different trucks to use besides the Atlas O caboose trucks as they look huge and in some cases not correct.  Until I had the trucks resolved, I could not move forward with the interior light solutions.   I also had plans to get the windows in both the NP and C&O cabooses.  Also outstanding are the lantern lenses mentioned above.

Regarding the trucks I went a couple of different routes I will cover in an update in the near future.  In the mean while I got distracted building a another caboose kit, the Ambroid O-22 ATSF caboose.

THE ATSF CABOOSE BUILD follows

I started this back in late July.  I thought it would be interesting to track my time on different tasks through the build on this one.  Keep in mind I am still a hack on these, but after running through this exercise, the only reason to build a kit would be you wanted the challenge of doing it yourself or you are making a model not produced already as the hours that goes in to these along with the costs for supplies far out weight the cost of the high end brass models.  The cost for the supplies themselves is not so bad, but the journey in identify the correct part wanted and ordered on the internet to find out they are not what you expected when they arrive is the rub.  Before we get started on my journey, a couple of words of caution if you plan to build this model:

               1. The plan sets don't communicate that there are only three windows on one side and four on the other side.  To make things worse, they actually                           provide eight window castings implying there should be four windows on both sides.  The side with stove should not have the 4th window.

               2. The caboose platforms are not the same length on the plan sets and I believe they should be.  I didn't realize this was issue until I already followed                       the plan sets and found I had inconsistent roof overhangs.

               3. The white castings appear to be filled with micro air bubble and work to resolve them before discovering them with the paint as I did, especially on                      the window frame and the tops or copula casting.

When starting the caboose, I did allot of scouring of the internet to be sure I understood any details that should have been included with the kit but weren't.  At the end of the day, I adopted things I liked and tried to model the 1321 which showed the shorter end sill steps.  No pictures I could find showed this caboose in service in 30's/40s, so I took allot of liberties on my own.  I had some specific items I wanted to do differently than the kit:

1. I wanted tool boxes on each side of the caboose that match other examples of this type of the caboose, which this kit did not as I could not find an example as shown in the plan set.  I improvised off the internet images.

2. I wanted the added on grab rails on the cupola roof.

3. I wanted to include an interior accurate for the model.  I built the model to not require gluing the roof on so it could be removed.

4. I used a styrene roof to avoid wood grain texture on roof itself and also built all new new roof walkways so it had individual planks you could see through.

5. Modified the smoke stack to look more traditional like the other ATSF wood cabooses

6. Added Nut Bolt Washer where appropriate  (I  never ended up doing the railings on the end of caboose)

7. Modify for 3 rail wheel use

8. Added new brass rods, brass sheet for metal strips and brass cored lanterns to light.

Initial pictures of the caboose build are below along with it being staged on the some trucks for pictures.



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I then moved on to the interior.  I developed a scale sketch of the interior plans based on the some links I found at Illinois Railway Museum (IRM Photo Gallery :: ATSF 1400 Caboose)  and also used this site at 1927 Caboose (sealyhistoricalsociety.org) and then started to build the inside.  I also created a fake stove out of some scraps.  I then painted the walls a light grey and the floors green.  I also added some calendars, maps, etc...  I think this turned out nice, but there are some sloppy glue mistakes by the bunks that were only apparent once the styrene was painted.

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At this point, I was stuck.  I needed to decide on some trucks for this as they would determine the clearances needed for the bolster and center sill  and center beam modifications needed to accomidate them.  I was determined to have a three rail truck with a pick up for lights, but every picture I found on the internet showed this cab with Arch Bar trucks.  In my quest for these types of trucks, I ended up modifying a set of Athern 2 rail injection molded trucks so they could accept a roller from an Atlas Caboose and also take 3 rail wheel sets.  I am not sure which wheel sets I used, either Weaver or Atlas, as one of them had too long of an axle would not work.    In the end, I found I could not get enough clearance with the 3 rail wheel sets to allow the 3 rail couplers to be mounted on the caboose body, so I committed to using Kadee couplers instead.  They actually will mate with 3 rails couplers as well, just cannot be operated.  Pictured below show the Athern trucks before and after modifications.  Also shown is the individual modifications require of the individual parts to allow it to work.  I removed the coil springs from the trucks and glued them permanently.  I also acquired some plastic leaf springs which I modified to fit and and glued on as well.  Notice the shims on the top of bolster needed to prevent the 3rd rail pick up assembly from interfering with the bottom of the caboose.



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Roller mount was reduced to only use the small screw holes to mount on bolster.

BEFORE MOD

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AFTER MOD

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Bolster was was reduced in size on the bottom and notched to allow the pick up roller to be added.


BEFORE MOD

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AFTER MOD

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Assembled truck below

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Plastic leaf springs shown below

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With the trucks done, I could test fit and was able to give it a ride around the layout.  Pictured below is it with the new trucks along with another ATSF steel caboose that was picked up at Mr Muffin's train show recently.  The other caboose was an MTH model that had been repainted, lowered and had some nice additional modifications.  I would love to know more about the modeler who did that one, it looks really nice.

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Lastly, I have been able to paint and decal the caboose, but still needing to apply the dull coat.  I used a 50/50 mix of light tuscan oxide red and dark tuscan oxide red acrylics from badger.  I purchased new decals from proto craft.  Once I can complete the dull coat, I can then tackle the windows and lights.  The paint always seems to be an issue with me as the finish always seems rough.

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To date, the labor for each of the major sub-projects are listed below, with total number of hours @ 38 hours.  There always seems like a lot of do overs happening on these projects to correct things that don’t look right, and are only discoverable after you have already done it once.  This does not include researching pictures on the internet to get details and ideas for projects outside of the kit's original scope.  I would say that is easily another 5-6 hours.

- 4 hours,  Pre-prepping wood with seal coat, cutting windows/doors out and assembling/gluing to base

- 2 hours, molding/laminating roof styrene pieces, along with cupola assembly

- 2 hours, roof walkways

- 8 hours on car endings/railings/ladders and nut/bot/washer placements, (includes resetting the entire end assembling with hand rails twice due to errors)

-0.3 hours on window shades (custom, not included with kit

-1.5 hours on new tool boxes

-1 hour Modifying Smoke Stack

- 2 hours interior walls

- 8.5 hours on building interior details

- 2 hours painting interior

- 2 hours Athern Truck modifications

- 1 hour Adapting New PSC lanterns to attach for lightning.

- 3.5 hours on painting exterior and decaling (not complete yet)

Hope to complete the three caboose mentioned above soon, but I seem to get distracted easily.  I already have located the last kit I was wanting to build from Trainz last week (N&W).....

Thanks for following along!

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

Thanks for the feedback and comments folks.


I am pretty excited as I completed the AT&SF caboose tonight.  I have some photos below of the progress and approach to final things needing to be completed.

First, I needed to coat the caboose with clear coat.  Nice weather was here last weekend and I could paint in the garage.   I used the same approach as last time with the other caboose where I used the even mix of dull coat, gloss coat and lacquer thinner.  This didn’t work as well as last time, as think I had the air brush pressure too high, resulting in noticeable build up on features in the direction of the air brush pressure.  I am not sure when I will ever master this painting thing.  In the end, the caboose paint looks good, but could be execute much better with out the chunky build up.

I also needed to add windows.  I used Lexan here.  I needed to cut the windows so they would insert into the interior walls.  This process is not efficient, and the Lexan seems to easily scratch when handled and adjusted to fit.

Next on the list was to finalize the modification to the trucks.  I decided to use phosphor wire from tichy instead of the brass and copper metal tabs i originally posted.  The wire seemed more resilient to be bent and still maintain its memory.  I soldered the wire to some scrap brass plate and attached it to the truck for providing a ground contact for lights.

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I then used square styrene tubing to mount the ceiling led lights on and hide the wires.  Attached the tubing to the roof and then wired my 6 LEDs together (3 on the ceiling, 1 in the lamp, and 2 for the markers).

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Next I assembled my voltage regulator to power the LEDs. I only used a diode to half rectified the voltage with a small 5 volt regulator.  I found when using the full wave rectifier and capacitor, allot more heat came off the regulator and I don’t have a great way to dissipate it.  With just the diode,  I am able to keep the entire unit small and not generate much heat.  It was very important to me that no wires or circuits be visible inside the caboose.  In this case, I decided to mount it on the bottom of the caboose, as opposed to the truck on my last caboose, as these trucks are not metal.  The LEDs are just bright enough to see inside, but not too bright where it looks more toy like and a distraction. Once again, if there are better circuits out there that are still this small and can drive the six leds with out heat, I would be interested in it.

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Next, pulling it all together, below is the finished caboose including its interior.86D28592-11BC-432D-AE2E-C17E0632AF0F505235D5-AD43-492C-9A10-F270BED781D1D5C1AB07-FCB1-44DE-A09D-9E506F12C2EEDFD5E395-0786-4D3B-B2C5-0C5927252C3271F481F4-C4AD-493D-BE4B-D9874BFEFAC21E544D88-FFF5-49EE-8A16-7B77F838055C

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Thanks for following along.  Hope to do an update on completing my Northern Pacific and Chesapeake and Ohio cabooses soon.

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Last edited by Hump Yard Mike

I finished the Northern Pacific caboose tonight.  The biggest hurdle to completion was once again the trucks.  I planned to originally use the atlas 3 rail caboose trucks, but they seemed huge when placed on it and had trouble finding pictures of similar trucks on it in photos.  I end up using 3 rail andrews trucks from atlas and attached their roller pick ups to the trucks.  I could not determine if these were the right type of truck, but saw several pictures that looked like them online.  Because this is freight car truck, they have plastic (nylon?) bushings in them for axles and not the metal bushings that the caboose trucks come with.  I removed the coil springs and glued leaf springs in their place.  I needed to add axle pick ups for because of the plastic bushings and took a similar approach as I did with the atsf caboose mentioned above. It’s funny how small this caboose looks when paired up with the NP challenger I built it for.  This caboose has taken a long time to complete and has definitely been an adventure.  It is the only caboose I had built completely from scratch.

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I have a good start on the remaining tasks needed to complete the last caboose, the C&O.  Hope to have this done in the next couple of weeks.

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sweet

I agree. Question: this thread is in the "3 rail scale" category, yet I see the much larger (not Kadee) couplers.

Now I know it's been said that "3 rail scale is about more than just wheels and couplers" yet there are many examples in the "traditional toy trains" category of models (steam locomotives in particular) that are "scale", except for the large (not wanting to offend, so I won't use the term l*bster claw) 😜 factory coupler(s).

I'm not wanting to start an argument here, but I have often thought that the line between "scale" and "traditional" often gets blurred...and I think this is an example of that. In any case, it's all good, and a very Merry Christmas to anyone/ everyone who reads my ramblings! 😊

Mark in Oregon 🎄

Finally completed the C&O caboose tonight.  I decided to stay with the Atlas caboose trucks on this one.  The windows are actually mounted in the walls of the interior inserts.  The inserted interiors didn’t fit quite as nice and tight as I had hoped for with a small gap between the exterior window frame and the window glass.  

These first four kits have been quite the journey over the last year and half.  It was nice to clean the work bench off of these efforts as there had been several loose messes waiting for the wrap up of these.  Also accomplished my goal of no virtually no wires visible on any of the interiors.

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