Live Track Diagram Control Panel Construction

I like control panels since I first saw them on the Lionel layout. With the new electronics they may become an anachronism.

I dont like having a line of switch controllers that do not clearly show which turnout they control. However, it was hard to arrange a series of the Lionel controllers on a small panel, the panel needed to be larger. I thought that maybe when DZ came out with the DZ-1000s their small rectangular controllers could fit on a panel. see below. 

Still I though too bulky. Especially, when I made this panel.

Note that the panel design will be laser cut in acrylic in two colors (one for the track line and one for the background.) The panel above is designed for a single push button control for the DZ-2500Cs with a RED and Green LED to signify the turnout direction. So I had a circuit made to mimic the DZ-2501s to do this.

the above shows how I can control the DZ-2500Cs with a push button circuit signifying direction of the turnout with a RED and GREEN LEDs

Allen

I have enjoyed learning about the DZ switch controllers.  You have a neat control panel using new technology and get solve the problems to make them work.  Keep us posted on your progress.  My control panel is 1950's practices with later mini switches but it works well and makes it easy to find and control 31 switches.

Part Two of Live Touch Track Diagram Control Panel Construction and Layout Wiring  Part 2 of 2  Part One is on Page one of this topic

I just installed one wire at time and checked circuits as I went.  There is no electrical diagram for the whole layout.  There are dozen or so one page diagrams for all individual circuits but one has to just trace the wires to know how to repair.  Some wires are labelled like Common or C and I tried to make all common wires have black insulation.  Most wiring is 14 ga for track power and switches and 18 ga for lighting and accessories.  The 14 gauge wires were too stiff to bend easily when swinging the control panel up for work and put too much force on the mini switch contacts.  So all the large gauge wires had a 20 ga., 8 to 12 inch long pig tails soldered on them to go between the wire and its push button or slide switches on the panel. The wires were just installed one at time for each function, dividing this complicated wiring project a small easy steps.

What a mess of wires!

Some Data on my Live Touch Track Diagram Control Panels   (as of 5-8-2022)

Main Control Panel   (26 inch X 9 inch) Mini Switch Inventory

(Key:  Mini Push Buttons = PB,  Slide Switches = SS

Live Track Diagram           

Turnout PB        un-coupling PB        Track sect SS        Round H. Rotary      

       38                         15                             14                             8

Control Panel Side Switch Panels ( for Accessories, Building Lighting etc.

Mini Push Buttons     Slide Switches

           16                            14

After having this actionable live touch track diagram control panel for over forty years, one idea for an improvement has been come up.  The improvement would be to have the direction of the switch on the diagram be illuminated in the route the tracks are set up to.  The operating engineers memory is required now to remember what route has been set on the various track switches.

This would require replacing the existing Radio Shack push button momentary mini switches with illuminated mini switches push button momentary switches.  These switches would light and remain lighted until its paired push button switch, which operates the opposite direction for the track switch is operated.  It is not know what it would take to make these paired push button illuminated switches work this fashion.

Control Panel Details

Picture Below:  Right side the control panel next to the Live Touch Track Diagram is below.   "Reset" is for LW Trans circuit breaker for outside loop and the button is the actual "Reset Button" on the circuit breaker and you can see the tin tabs on the CB to hold it to the control panel Masonite board.

"Relays" switches to power up 2 trains per 1 track or loop relay.  IN and OUT selects the direction of travel for the inside loop or outside loop of the main train board.  There are two relays and one operates 2 trains on 1 track on the inner loop and the other 2 trains on 1 track on the outer loop.

"1T" selects the LW on left with red light to controls whole train layout. "2 Trans" selects red lighted LW to operate inside loop and green lighted LW on right to run outside loop.  This slide switch is dpdt and both poles were wired to transformer wires as these Radio Shack mini slide switches are not rated for 10 amps.  It has held up for 40 plus years.

Green 110 vac pilot light above shows when keyed whole layout switch is  "ON".  This is very important to keep from leaving the layout on all night ( I wish it was brighter!).

Recently, with the train layout in a isolated in the room above a garage, I was still leaving the layout ON accidentally on a few occasions.  Therefore, a Christmas tree timer was added that the main 110 v plug to the whole layout is plugged.  This timer can be turned for 1 hr, 2 hr or 6 hours ON and then switch OFF.  I usually set it for 1 hour ON and this timer had eliminated the Layout being left on all night or longer,

Charlie

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I too have made control panels like Charlie with Masonite and taped track lines and old school switches and push buttons.  I run command and conventional and clockwork so there is still a role for such panels.  I prefer to instantly find a switch button rather than scrolling through a remote, so such panels have a future for some of us.  Plus, they look cool.  Below is a shot of one of my old panels (1980s) built similar to what Charlie has described.

I will be building a panel later this year and may end up doing Masonite again but have thought painting the lines instead of tape. (of course, the track will end up changing).  I do not have a laser cutter like Alan, but don’t rule out buying one.  I too thought of mounting a DZ controller right on the panel, but Alan has shown the difficulty with that.

Searching for how to do this.  I still have a box of buttons and switches and pilot lights from years ago.  Block control is still relevant for conventional and to turn off command locos not in use, but on the layout.  I like to have lights to show blocks on or off and switch direction.

I know I could make some computer touch screen with Arduinos etc, but not up for that.

Alan has a good-looking approach.  How else could we make these panels?  What have others done?

Bill

If you use Tortoise switch machines you can utilize bicolor LED's on your track diagram on your control panel. The panel also allows for using the various control switches for accessories eg. cranes, loaders etc. I used auto pin striping tape to diagram the layout and then drilled 1/4 inch holes for the bicolor LED's and the double pole double throw switches used to control the switches. 37 years later they are still going strong. Here is a photo of one of the masonite panels I used.

Great hearing from Allen, Bil and triplex on their diagram control panels.  I agree there is still a need for a track plan diagram control panel even with modern constant voltage track and remote hand held controllers, especially if there are a large number of switches and operating/uncoupling track sections.  A track plan diagram control panel is the easiness way to have simple and quick access to track switches and uncoupling track section switch operation.

The second part of the Live Touch Track Diagram Control Panel Construction and Layout Wiring  Part 2 of 2 topic is on the bottom of Post 3 above.

Charlie

I have tried to control the DZ switches with the handheld. It works great with a few switches spaced "far" apart. Programing a sequence of turn-out throws is not that easy.

Which takes me back to the panel. I use two LEDs red and green instead of a bicolor because I can never remember which bi-color switches where, so the two Leds pointing the path are immediately visible and intuitive!

Before the GlowForge laser cutter, I would need to sandwich a clear plex piece over a laser print drawing of the track and then add a Masonite or metal sheet backing and a reverse drawing diagram underneath; THEN CAREFULLY drill holes thru the sandwich for the switches and LEDs. HOPEFULLY not breaking the Plex.

With the laser cutter, I cut the track plan, all holes, out of one color acrylic  like  Lionel Blue and do it again with Lionel orange acrylic sheet. Then take the orange track lines and insert them and glue into the blue, it is a perfect match and fits like a puzzle piece. No sandwich, no problems with drilling holes as they are laser cut. No need for the reverse drawing.

The reverse drawing under the panel allows me to lift up the panel for wiring and see what's on the other top side.

My priority on my current layout was to just get the trains running and get some enjoyment from watching them roll, so I went old school as shown below. Simple, not sexy, I suppose you could say. Track plan is pro line auto pinstripe material just laid out by eye.

Great topic Charlie. I'm also in the "put the switch on the track plan" club. My layout is a 4x8 027 with 12- 5121, 22 turnouts and 3 Scale-trax. Since original construction, two 5122's have been converted to manual operation to solve some clearance problems.
My panel is built out of a piece of acrylic used for engraving signs. It's a nice material to work with since it's not as hard as plexiglass and less likely to splinter or crack when drilling holes.
I used auto pinstripe tape for the track plan as well. I like the tape over a permanent engraving since we all tend to change or add to our layouts.
Switches are a combination of mini toggles for block power, and push buttons for uncouplers.
The turnout controllers are lined up in a row but are all clearly identified and I find it easy to use.

This was the original.

The main level is to the left and upper level on the right. Power for lighting circuits is on the right.

And current

Oh- and I know a thing or two about digital controls. I run a mid-size college campus facilities department and we have many buildings with computerized HVAC controls.

Bob

Here is my control panel for 3 mains and a trolley track. This was built pre upper level and subway. So the upper trolley and subway are not on the plan. The minute pieces of pin stripe on the accessory controllers indicate which position to set the knob on the Z transformer.

Pennsyfan  shows us that DZ controllers can be incorporated into a panel

I have a question on building my control panel. I would like to mark my track map with leds showing location of the trains and or trains. What type of actuator do I need to install that will respond when the train passes over. I will be making a mixed layout using MTH realtrax, Lionel fastrack and three rail prewar.

my goal is to visually trac the train on my control board. I will be otherwise running conventional. Tinplate trains some modern and some prewar

thanks in advance

I can provide generalities, but no specifics.  If your railroad uses signals (MTH, Lionel, Z-Stuff, etc.) you could just try to piggy-back off of their detection wiring to run something to your control panel.  Alternatively, you could set up a series of insulated blocks, using consistently either the inside or outside rail of 3-rail track, such that each time an engine enters that block, it will light up an LED on your control panel.  My last suggestion would be to look at the "operation" suggestions posted on some of the model railroad electronics suppliers' websites (Circuitron, Azatrac, etc.).

I have read where some people use light detectors placed between ties to detect occupancy of a location, but for control panel accuracy, you would have to place them less than one car-length apart,  This problem even exists with the insulated outside rail method because once your engine leaves the block, the LED turns off even though 7/8ths of your train might still be in that block.

Good luck and I hope you find more specific info.

Chuck

@PRR1950 posted:

I can provide generalities, but no specifics.  If your railroad uses signals (MTH, Lionel, Z-Stuff, etc.) you could just try to piggy-back off of their detection wiring to run something to your control panel.  Alternatively, you could set up a series of insulated blocks, using consistently either the inside or outside rail of 3-rail track, such that each time an engine enters that block, it will light up an LED on your control panel.  My last suggestion would be to look at the "operation" suggestions posted on some of the model railroad electronics suppliers' websites (Circuitron, Azatrac, etc.).

I have read where some people use light detectors placed between ties to detect occupancy of a location, but for control panel accuracy, you would have to place them less than one car-length apart,  This problem even exists with the insulated outside rail method because once your engine leaves the block, the LED turns off even though 7/8ths of your train might still be in that block.

Good luck and I hope you find more specific info.

Chuck

I love this topic and am currently building an LED switch indicator panel for my DZ1000's. I can throw my two cents in on the isolated track block method. Running MTH DCS command control I had a lot of signal issues with the isolated track block method. Granted I had many isolated blocks on a 10x18 layout. I just switched track and redid the layout with optical sensors (as mentioned in the quoted post) instead of isolated track blocks, and my signal strength went straight to 10/10 from dismal 3 or4/10s. I was ready to can the TIU and donate a kidney to buy a new one. Again, just my experience but it may be something to consider.

Mike

One of the commenters in this thread mentioned using DZ-1000 push-button panels.  I did that on my last layout with a track plan created with some sort of graphics tape from Staples and the DZ-1000 push-button panels.  I put a couple of coats of spray-can clear lacquer over the control panel after the graphics tape was put in place so it wouldn't peel over the long term.  The tape didn't come up during the 13 years that control panel was in use.  I also set up three tracks in a small yard to work with the red and yellow lights to show when the last and next to last tracks were occupied.  That approach used the old-fashioned method of an insulated rail.

My best piece of advice on control panels is label all your wiring.  I made it a regular practice to label every wire every 18 to 36 inches and at the termination points.  You'll appreciate that effort the first time you have to trace some problem.

Thinking outside the "box". I was wondering if Taylor Swift might help us locate trains on our layouts.

At her concerts, concert-goers are issued a cheap IR detector wand that lights up various colors and patterns depending on the position of the wand in the concert hall as determined by  low-level IR sources situated around the venue. 

The IR-sources send out invisible signals to the wands that react to create colorful patterns in the audience depending on the wand's location.  In a similar way the IR source would be programmed to know our layout patterns.

Each engine, car, signal, gate or accessory could have similar type wand placed inside. The IR-source would then know where each of these components are located.  Then send out signals to activate the component InConcert with other components;  instead of changing colors.

An app on our phones would then control the IR source and direct the action below.

Really cool - I *almost* went this route but ultimately went with LCS. I was/am afraid that if I wanted to make a change I'd have to either make a new control board or not make the change at all.