Add LED to LC fake tender back up light?

Follow-up:  Should have opened the tender up first.

The LED install won't be that easy.  The entire fake light is held on with a screw and probably glue because it wouldn't come off when I took off the screw.

It may even be solid plastic with a clear plastic insert in front.

The leads from the LED could come in through those vents behind the fake lamp, but you still have to figure out how to get it inside the fake lamp.

Maybe Dan's is different.

John

Would it work to drill out the hole where the screw was enough to poke in the LED behind the lens?  Then use hot glue to hold the LED in place?

@SteveH posted:

Would it work to drill out the hole where the screw was enough to poke in the LED behind the lens?  Then use hot glue to hold the LED in place?

I was thinking of that.  I just tried shining a small flashlight into the screw hole, but it didn't transmit.  Going in from the bottom the only solution to reach the lens is to keep increasing the size of the drill bit each time until you see light.  Or try scraping away the glue and tapping it until the lens breaks loose to get a better look?

I tried looking through the front of the lens with an Optivisor, but I can't tell what's behind it.  Drilling looks like a one shot deal.

I wonder if they are all like that?   Dan ordered a bunch of parts for this project so I wonder if his is different inside or maybe he didn't open it either?

You can buy a backup light from parts and replace that one.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

You can buy a backup light from parts and replace that one.

I'll check that out John.  Thanks.   Have you ever lightly heated a glued plastic part to remove it?

John

According to the Lionel Parts diagram that light isn't shown as a separate part, but the screw would say otherwise:

https://www.lionelsupport.com/...03-8796-6AA2A9D0FA81

John

I'd remove the screw and see if I could twist it loose.  Failing that, I'd probably break out the Dremel and grind it off and replace it with a real backup light.  It looks like it's molded onto the tender shell from the pictures.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

I'd remove the screw and see if I could twist it loose.  Failing that, I'd probably break out the Dremel and grind it off and replace it with a real backup light.  It looks like it's molded onto the tender shell from the pictures.

I was doing a search for "Lionel tender backup light" and only turned up a light bar and a prewar add on light that was out of stock at Legacy Station with a picture that wasn't clear enough to tell if it would even fit.

Do you happen to know a part number?  Otherwise I can contact Jeff at The Train Tender and ask him.

Thanks,

John

Could you just swaap the pick up assembly for this one?  Pickup  They just snap in.  You could connect the original wire and then use the center pickup for the backup light.

Brendan

@Brendan posted:

Could you just swaap the pick up assembly for this one?  Pickup  They just snap in.  You could connect the original wire and then use the center pickup for the backup light.

Brendan

Jeff at The Train Tender recommended this one:

He said it fits a lot of modern Lionel trucks.  There are four holes in the rear truck of the tender so it might.

Still having trouble finding a light housing to replace the one moulded on this one.

John

@Craftech posted:

I was doing a search for "Lionel tender backup light" and only turned up a light bar and a prewar add on light that was out of stock at Legacy Station with a picture that wasn't clear enough to tell if it would even fit.

Do you happen to know a part number?  Otherwise I can contact Jeff at The Train Tender and ask him.

Go to MTH Parts & Sales and look up one of the following units, they're in stock and should work for replacing that lamp.  Click on SHOP at the top menu and enter the part number.  You can cover the number or replace it with your own.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Go to MTH Parts & Sales and look up one of the following units, they're in stock and should work for replacing that lamp.  Click on SHOP at the top menu and enter the part number.  You can cover the number or replace it with your own.

Nice one.

Thanks John

They even have them without the numbers:

Just change the last part number to a 1 or a 9

John

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Go to MTH Parts & Sales and look up one of the following units, they're in stock and should work for replacing that lamp.  Click on SHOP at the top menu and enter the part number.  You can cover the number or replace it with your own.

Oh... I wanted one of these yesterday in Allentown.  I went to several of the parts guys and all they kept showing me was a light bulb and a socket.   Thanks, this will help.  I will order one today.

Ron

@Craftech posted:

Nice one.

Thanks John

They even have them without the numbers:

Just change the last part number to a 1 or a 9

John

Yep, I just showed some samples, for some reason I couldn't find any on Lionel's parts site.

@gunrunnerjohn posted:

Yep, I just showed some samples, for some reason I couldn't find any on Lionel's parts site.

Thanks for looking.

John

Craftech

Was coming on to post a vid of my project, sorry to hear you had problems. The light on my tender comes right off after removing the screw from the bottom. I routed the wire for the led through the vent holes. I drilled out the back of the light housing (it is hollow inside) and placed the led inside and held it in place with some clear latex caulk. If yours is molded to the body perhaps you cold drill straight up into it where the screw is located and slip the led into the housing from the bottom. For the sensor for the remote I drilled a hole in the floor of the tender and dropped it down a 1/4" or so below the tender. It receives the signal without a problem. I did not take any photos during the install just this short video after. It works nicely. I can turn it on and off from the tiny remote when ever I choose to. I hope this video works, it is only 22 seconds long but it too 45 minutes to upload. Computers are not my friend.

I read through the thread a little closer and will add 2 more cents. I believe your light body is hollow like mine is. You could still drill out the back of it in place if your careful and install the light similarly to the way I did. I chose to run the wires through the slotted vents so as to not add another hole in the tender body, and then into the light housing. I held it in place with clear latex caulk which lets the light transmit back towards the loco. I am just going to clean the caulk up a bit and paint it black. For the power the 9050 -50 Collector assembly is the one i used. I actually got it yesterday at the Wheaton train show. It was attached to a caboose, I paid $5 and got the pickup roller and a bonus caboose. I think you can still make this work. Good luck.

@Dan Kenny posted:

I read through the thread a little closer and will add 2 more cents. I believe your light body is hollow like mine is. You could still drill out the back of it in place if your careful and install the light similarly to the way I did. I chose to run the wires through the slotted vents so as to not add another hole in the tender body, and then into the light housing. I held it in place with clear latex caulk which lets the light transmit back towards the loco. I am just going to clean the caulk up a bit and paint it black. For the power the 9050 -50 Collector assembly is the one i used. I actually got it yesterday at the Wheaton train show. It was attached to a caboose, I paid $5 and got the pickup roller and a bonus caboose. I think you can still make this work. Good luck.

Thanks Dan,

I'll try to get that housing off.  Makes no sense to me that if it were moulded into the shell it would also have a screw??

Glad to know the 9050-150 fits.  I'll order one.

Yours Looks great and operates well.  Congrats.

John

That is strange, I know when working with small parts your afraid to use too much force and break it. But did you try twisting it a bit? Like I said you could drill it in place if need be. On mine the coal box also comes off by 2 screws inside the tender. That way you could get a straight shot at the back of the light housing with a long drill bit. Good luck.

@Dan Kenny posted:

That is strange, I know when working with small parts your afraid to use too much force and break it. But did you try twisting it a bit? Like I said you could drill it in place if need be. On mine the coal box also comes off by 2 screws inside the tender. That way you could get a straight shot at the back of the light housing with a long drill bit. Good luck.

I did.  It is my five year old grandson's and I would hate to break it.  It's integral to the engine.

He wanted the light to work so I told him I would try.

I'll give it another nudge.  I can always grind it off and order the MTH add-on shown above.

Thanks

John

OK,  No way that's coming off, but I drilled into the housing through the screw hole at an angle so I am good to go.  Just glued a 3mm Warm White Evans LED into the hole with black RTV silicone.

Thank you to all.  Will post photo of results when I get the other parts.

John

Good deal! Should be a better install than mine. You will have no visible wire or sealant on the exterior.

Progress Report:  Received the 9050-150 today from Jeff at The Train Tender.  He told me it would not fit after asking me for a photo, but I ordered it anyway not having a suitable alternative.  The two tabs on each side are further apart than the holes so I widened the holes and the pickup assembly fit.

Waiting on the remote control parts from Evan Designs to finish up the project.  Should work out fine.

John