I've just acquired a working Lionel Type Z. The cord and plug need to be replaced, and the knobs, faceplate, and case need some clean and shine. Curious to know what products or techniques you recommend?
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I bought my hard parts at Hennings. For a shine-up job I bought a small buffing wheel kit (for a 3/8" drill) and it came with different grades of buffing polishes. Sorry I don't recall the brandname. Turned out nice though.
Rich
Did you use the polishing compounds on the etched faceplate, too?
@Ken Wing posted:Did you use the polishing compounds on the etched faceplate, too?
Got to be careful using compounds on the faceplates. The numbers & nomenclature can be accidentally polished off, …..I’ve had decent success gently and I do mean gently scrubbing the face plate with an SOS pad to bring back a near mirror finish on the plate. As far as knobs, and the main body, I wash them with hot soapy water, dry, and then buff up with Pledge furniture polish. Less is more, remember the KISS principle…..
Pat
In the FWIW category, I sent a "Z" in for refurbishing. It came back working like new but with a brightly plated faceplate. I did not like that look, so searched for a replacement and found a sticker from the "train tender" parts supplier. Not being satisfied with that either, once I saw it first hand, I contacted the refurbisher for my original faceplate and was told it had been burnished in preparation for plating. I asked for it anyway and it's the one on the transformer in the photo. While certainly not original, much preferred over the other two. YMMV
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Looks a bit like my Z. Had to replace the cord and do a bit of internal repair so it works just fine, but..
Cleaned the outside as best I could but I kinda like the dings, scratches, and patina. There has to be a story behind each blemish, and there is a good chance it was a child’s story. Its new use is for mostly lighting, and turning a dial while watching lights dim or brighten is fun too.
At my age I have a few dings and scratches as well. Also, nothing much I can do about them. (My patina is not great either)
Your posts have got me questioning just how bright I want the faceplate. A previous owner used tape to hold down the red and green lenses, and I definitely want to remove the traces of that from the case and faceplate. Tried GooGone, but only partial success so far. Got a train show coming up March 3. I'll get the cord and lenses I need there.
Replacement Power Cords with Male Plugs in both Grounded 3 Wire and Ungrounded 2 Wire with just Wire Ends. Replace with whatever type the old cord is, whether 2 prong or 3 prong plug. They are available at most hardware stores or online. I would recommend using minimum 14 gauge (15 Amp capacity) for smaller wattage Transformers or 12 gauge (20 Amp capacity) for high wattage Transformers like ZW, ZW-L, or Z-4000.
@Ken Wing posted:Did you use the polishing compounds on the etched faceplate, too?
Ken, no I did not. I did not think I had the finesse or experience to make a nice improvement on the metalwork.
Rich
@Ken Wing posted:Your posts have got me questioning just how bright I want the faceplate. A previous owner used tape to hold down the red and green lenses, and I definitely want to remove the traces of that from the case and faceplate. Tried GooGone, but only partial success so far. Got a train show coming up March 3. I'll get the cord and lenses I need there.
For tape glue, I use Naphtha (lighter fluid) as a first attempt. It doesn't usually attack any paint. It also seems to do well dissolving most tape residue.
Kent Schwartz has some nice ZW restoration pages on his website.
John
Mineral sprites will not damage most paints for glue removal and is lower cost than lighter fluid.
Charlie
