Affixing track to display board

I used atlas track screws (any small screws should work) and predrilled the base, then zip tied the axles to the track (had to notch the ties to accommodate the zip ties). The zip ties prevent the car from moving around when being handled.

Thanks, Eric. Screwing it in occurred to me, but, I’m concerned about the screws splitting the ties. You didn’t mention it specifically, but I assume you also drilled holes in the ties?

Might just be brads from an air brad nailer.

Brendan

They were probably nailed on with a pin nailer. If you don’t want to see fasteners, that’s the way to do it.

If you have to screw it, then predrilling the ties prevents splitting.

Thanks guys. No pin nailer available. Didn’t even know they existed! Local hardware store closed on Sunday. Will see what their selection of small screws is tomorrow.

@Mark V. Spadaro,

Mark,

I have several display cases with wood bases and plexiglass covers. I cut the track to the length of the case and place it on the base. No permanent attachment necessary, especially if you don't move the display case with the model inside on the tracks. If you prefer to permanently secure the track (with wooden ties) to the base, yellow carpenter's glue on two or three ties will hold it firmly. I use Titebond 2 in blue bottle. I believe it is an acrylic and also use it for wood models on the layout. Very strong. Atlas O track screws also would be suitable but would require drilling holes through the ties.

MELGAR

Thanks, Mel. I can see myself forgetting the track isn’t tacked down, and gravity intervening! So I will definitely be securing it to the board. These are both Lionel display cases. Probably cutting out the pin nailer step lowered their cost. Lionel probably buys them in lots. A bean counter decision.

@Mark V. Spadaro posted:

Thanks, Mel. I can see myself forgetting the track isn’t tacked down, and gravity intervening! So I will definitely be securing it to the board. These are both Lionel display cases. Probably cutting out the pin nailer step lowered their cost. Lionel probably buys them in lots. A bean counter decision.

Yellow carpenter's glue would be easy, invisible and secure. Two hours to dry.

MELGAR

@Mark V. Spadaro posted:

Thanks, Eric. Screwing it in occurred to me, but, I’m concerned about the screws splitting the ties. You didn’t mention it specifically, but I assume you also drilled holes in the ties?

Yes the Atlas track and base were predrilled.

You don't need to buy a pin nailer for just this one project. There are small nails that you can use such as 1" brown "panel" nails (available at your local hardware, big box store or the big A), that will work just fine and you can install with a hammer. They are ring shanked for extra holding power and I would pre-drill to insure no splitting of ties.

You can leave flush and touch-up with a brown Sharpie or countersink with a punch, then putty (they make colored putties/wood fillers, too) and/or stain to match.

If you nail into the ties where the engine will cover them, no one will ever notice. 

or clear adhesive caulk. Easy to secure... easy to remove

@Richie C. posted:

You don't need to buy a pin nailer for just this one project. There are small nails that you can use such as 1" brown "panel" nails (available at your local hardware, big box store or the big A), that will work just fine and you can install with a hammer. They are ring shanked for extra holding power and I would pre-drill to insure no splitting of ties.

You can leave flush and touch-up with a brown Sharpie or countersink with a punch, then putty (they make colored putties/wood fillers, too) and/or stain to match.

If you nail into the ties where the engine will cover them, no one will ever notice.

Yeah - they're just little nails. You'll need a hammer. And some nails form the hardware store. A small nail-set would be nice, but a larger nail can act as one for this limited project.

Low-tech. Really.

@Richie C. posted:

You don't need to buy a pin nailer for just this one project. There are small nails that you can use such as 1" brown "panel" nails (available at your local hardware, big box store or the big A), that will work just fine and you can install with a hammer. They are ring shanked for extra holding power and I would pre-drill to insure no splitting of ties.

You can leave flush and touch-up with a brown Sharpie or countersink with a punch, then putty (they make colored putties/wood fillers, too) and/or stain to match.

If you nail into the ties where the engine will cover them, no one will ever notice.

Richie’s approach would be best here Mark, ….least invasive, and best looking when done ….a small punch can be had for small money at ye ol local hardware store if you don’t own one….

Pat

Thanks, everyone for all your ideas. Thought about using finishing nails, but decided the hammer might skip or slip, and damage either the track or the display board. Countersinking with a punch didn’t cross the synapses. My hardware store didn’t have small black screws. So I got the smallest  silver wood screws they had and my son did the drilling w/ a 1/16 bit. I did the sharpie touch up, but the tip was too fat for the tiny slotted screws. I deliberately started a few ties from the ends, so the screws would not be visible. While it’s certainly not craftsmanship, I’m happy with the results. The stain on the last tie was the way it arrived, and the other stain was me slipping off the screw with the sharpie. Thanks again to all posters!