Airbrush - mini sandblasters

I've only used mine once, when I was trying to strip a Lionel diesel frame and not having much luck with chemical stripper. It wasn't really powerful enough for that job, but the Lionel frame had a very tough baked-on finish so I don't think it was a fair test. I think the little guy would be OK for small items with relatively thin or soft finishes, but not for the really tough jobs. I've been told that the "air eraser" works well on plastic if you use the right abrasive medium. 

airbrush..you need a duel action to paint your train and stuff the wright way..as for sand blasting.. I use this for my smaller projects even us it on real cars and truck with  small rust areas..

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Compos...1054603629%26ps%3D54

Interesting gadget, and priced right - but the ad only mentions the working pressure (90 pounds), not the airflow requirement in scfm. Without the second number, there's no way of knowing if your compressor is big enough or not. I have a cheap blaster from Harbor Freight that works with my compressor, but airflow is kind of marginal - I have to stop every couple of minutes and let the tank refill. I do like the idea of the all-in-one construction instead of feeding from a separate hopper; it strikes me as convenient for small jobs. 

Josey - do the instructions give a minimum scfm@90 pounds?

The instruction say 65 lbs MAX:

Product Description

Also includes: 6' Braided Hose with Mini-Inline Moisture Filter, Jar of Aluminum Oxide Abrasive 5 oz. (150g) net weight, Dust Mask and Hanger. Common Applications:The Air Abrasive & Etching Airbrush Gun is a versatile instrument that can erase color errors and act as an etching tool.It is used by hobbyists and manufacturers to clean jewelry and fine parts, remove discoloration, rust, corrosion, etch glass, or cut monograms. It is issued by lithographers to highlight half tones and erase defects without marring the surface or leaving a smudge. It is used extensively by model railroaders for weathering railcars.Operation:For general erasing, clean dry air at pressures of 30 to 45 PSI may be used. To be sure of satisfactory performance a Moisture Trap or Regulator with Moisture Trap should be used to remove, within their rated capacity, water oil and other impurities from your source of air supply. Air compressors with a air supply tank are recommended. Expect a slight trickle of abrasive to flow out after the button has released. This is caused by air pressure in the cup being relieved.1. Attach air hose coupling to Valve Casing2. Unscrew Cover3. Fill cup 3/4 full with clean dry sand, tighten cover securely.4. To prevent leaks, do not get any abrasive on the cup threads5. Regulate air pressure for erasing on paper surfaces to approximately 30 PSI. Use a1. higher air pressure of 45 to 65 PSI for metal, gold castings, plastic or glass work.6. Hold the Model G78 the way you would a pencil. Move the Model G78 with the Tip1. about 1/8' to 1/2' above the work surface. Adjust to achieve results desired.7. Adjust Control Screw to the lowest point to avoid excessive use of abrasive.8. For work requiring fast, heavy abrasive cutting, use Fast Cutting Abrasive and high1. air pressure. Hold tip of the Model G78 very close to the working surface to cut1. faster. Hold at a distance for blending and broad coverage.WARNING: Maximum Air Pressure 65 PSI

I tried making one out of an old airbrush.  I could get baking soda to come out, but realized my compressor only puts out around 20-25 psi, good enough for painting but not for un-painting!

I have a full size blast cabinet. I was given a Paasche airbrush abrasive blaster and found it virtually useless. I used their media which is pretty fine. I think its glass bead but not sure. Maybe other media would be more effective but I wouldn't waste my money on one.

If you have a larger compressor you would be better served by a standard media blaster, even the Harbor Freight items work better than the Paasche.

Pete