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Disclaimer, There is no paint forum, so I have placed where I thought best.

I have previously used Klean Strip Aircraft Stripper or Rust Oleum Aircraft remover for removing paint from metal.  I use one gallon maybe every five years or so.  Now I will say this stuff is tuff.  I always use outside and with gloves, even a little dap on you skin starts a chemical burn fast.  BUT this stuff works!!!

Time for another can and all I can find is a new formula that states (Proudly??) Non Methyl Chloride.  Now What I'm going to say isn't too green, but anytime I see new formulas stating non something the end result is it usually doesn't work as well.

Does anyone else use this and has anyone used the new formula with a comparison to the old formula.  Hopefully it will still work at least 75% as good as the old stuff.

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I USED to use aircraft stripper almost daily, until they took the MC out of it,…the new formula sucks …..it’ll clean paint very well, but does very little to remove it,….maybe a blister here, blister there,…..I sent it back to my supplier and told them to keep it…..I’ve had very good luck finding “genuine” aircraft stripper with MC in it at a place called Ollie’s that specializes in old store stock …….with the MC in it, I can strip a MTH diecast shell to the bare cast in a matter of minutes,….but be forewarned, forget one little plastic piece, and the MC will turn it to goo instantly….but I have to reserve the MC aircraft stripper for the day job now…..☹️

Pat

The only thing I found that works reasonably well is soaking in lacquer thinner for a complete strip,….it’s time consuming, but works well, ….I can recycle the lacquer thinner over and over again, so it is cost efficient,…..I have an old metal pan that will hold most o gauge boiler shells ….a note for other readers!….do not try to strip your plastic diesel shells in lacquer thinner!….not unless you want it to dissolve!…

Pat

I USED to use those products harvested from superfund sites.

Then on a lark I tried the old trick of boiling the metal part in a pot full of water mixed with Ivory laundry soap. Holy heck!!! It is just amazing!

I'm sure it depends on the kind of paint your are removing, but for everything I have tried, the paint just slid off the metal.  

Definitely worth a try--your liver will thank you.

Of course, this doesn't work for plastic. For that, I soak in one of the "Purple Power"-style degreasers. This, too, has never failed me. It has never harmed any plastic I have tried, and it has always succeeded in removing the paint. Sometimes it takes minutes and sometimes it takes weeks, but it always seems to work.

Last edited by Avanti

I've used the hot water and detergent mixture for tinplate and it works great.

I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol for plastic with mostly good results ( 1970s Atlas and all Weaver paint is bullet proof).

I've tried both for cast with lackluster results.  I tried the alcohol on one of the engines I'm working on as a clean up after the stripper-didn't touch anything.  That's my issue, only use stripper for cast metal as I've never found anything that works well with castings.

@NHVRYGray posted:

I've used the hot water and detergent mixture for tinplate and it works great.

I use 91% Isopropyl alcohol for plastic with mostly good results ( 1970s Atlas and all Weaver paint is bullet proof).

I've tried both for cast with lackluster results.  I tried the alcohol on one of the engines I'm working on as a clean up after the stripper-didn't touch anything.  That's my issue, only use stripper for cast metal as I've never found anything that works well with castings.

MTH and Lionel black is very resistant to lacquer thinner which is great if you want to remove just the lettering but methylene chloride will have it off in a few minutes. Too bad you can’t get it anymore. You may have to resort to abrasive blasting.

Pete

A follow up to my original post of this topic.

I used the new non MC Aircraft Stripper for the first time today to strip an Ertl box truck.  As posted by Lou1985 the new formula did work with the following observations:

You have to use more of the new formula as it seems to need a complete coverage to "soak" in where the old formula would almost work on contact.  Good for the manufacturer as they can now sell more.

More time is needed, I did an initial scrub to break the paint after about 15 minutes, after another period of about 30 minutes got most of the paint off.

More picking is needed to get all the crevices clean.

Stinks a LOT more than the old formula.



So the new formula will work, not as well, slower, and with more prep work needed.

As a follow up to the removal of Methyl Chloride from Aircraft Stripper and the lackluster results of the new stuff.

I was at the automotive paint store getting some SEM paint and trim out tape when I noticed the following on a shelf.IMG_20231222_161312268_HDR

I inquired and the counter salesman stated exactly what has been said before, the new non MC stuff barely works and not very well even when it does, universal comments from many users.  They do not even have the non MC stuff in the store.

He said this new formula (don't know the contents) worked about like the old formula, likes to be warm and definitely smells and stinks about like the old formula.  Of course it's more expensive, about $20 more per gallon.  Curiously it says it can be used on plastic ( I'd definitely try on junk first).  Also some states don't like it and will not permit it to be sold, could not find out why.

Has anyone used this new stuff.  They had quarts as well, maybe I need to get a quart and try it.  Problem is currently I have no projects needing stripping.

Has anyone else used this stuff and if so what was the results?

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Gray,

I saw you said you were having trouble with Weaver paint.  If you’re looking to strip a plastic car, I highly recommend LA’s Awesome Orange cleaner.  Use it full strength and submerge the car for about a day. Mild brushing with a toothbrush will take the paint right off.  You can get the stuff at Dollar General and the like.  Hope this helps.

Cheers,

Price

FWIW, it looks like Klean-Strip has two different formulas on sale. One is for sale in CA, CO, CT, DE, MD, MI, NH, NY, OH, RI and UT.

http://kleanstripauto.com/prod...paint-remover-liquid

The other is available in the rest of the country…

http://kleanstripauto.com/prod...-ultra-paint-remover

Based on the MSDS the formulas are completely different with the only common ingredient being Tetrahydrofuran.  Based on some googling it seems to be a solvent, mostly used to dissolve other compounds. It looks as though in the CA, CO, CT… formula the THF content is about half, and the remainder is replaced by Acetone.

I’m not sure if the increased concentration of THF makes an appreciable impact on the usefulness, or if its the other ingredients that do the stripping. The non-acetone variety also has Xylene which is a paint and varnish thinner.

I’m guessing the mixed experiences are based on which state you live in and which formula you get.

@rplst8 posted:

FWIW, it looks like Klean-Strip has two different formulas on sale. One is for sale in CA, CO, CT, DE, MD, MI, NH, NY, OH, RI and UT.

http://kleanstripauto.com/prod...paint-remover-liquid

The other is available in the rest of the country…

http://kleanstripauto.com/prod...-ultra-paint-remover

Based on the MSDS the formulas are completely different with the only common ingredient being Tetrahydrofuran.  Based on some googling it seems to be a solvent, mostly used to dissolve other compounds. It looks as though in the CA, CO, CT… formula the THF content is about half, and the remainder is replaced by Acetone.

I’m not sure if the increased concentration of THF makes an appreciable impact on the usefulness, or if its the other ingredients that do the stripping. The non-acetone variety also has Xylene which is a paint and varnish thinner.

I’m guessing the mixed experiences are based on which state you live in and which formula you get.

I’m not sure if the increased concentration of THF makes an appreciable impact on the usefulness, or if its the other ingredients that do the stripping. The non-acetone variety also has Xylene which is a paint and varnish thinner.

it doesn’t, ….the product is still junk…..I tested the product on a variety of paint compounds, including some model trains. ( which you’d think would dissolve the easiest ) ….it was an excellent cleaner, but did nothing to blister or remove paint in any kind of timely manner,….good ol fashioned lacquer thinner came to the rescue. For the cost of Kleen Strip’s product, it’s a horrible waste of money, IMO, and obviously 10’s of thousands of other users based on product reviews…..of course, there will be an instance where the product worked, but that would be an exception, not the norm. When the product had MC in it, it was by far the best product on the market, and an industry standard.

Pat

@harmonyards posted:
….good ol fashioned lacquer thinner came to the rescue. For the cost of Kleen Strip’s product, it’s a horrible waste of money, IMO, and obviously 10’s of thousands of other users based on product reviews…..of course, there will be an instance where the product worked, but that would be an exception, not the norm. When the product had MC in it, it was by far the best product on the market, and an industry standard.

Same experience here.

@rplst8 posted:

Well, the Klean-Strip Lacquer Thinner is acetone and methanol mostly.

@rplst8 posted:

Some of the non-VOC brake cleaner out there is mostly Tetrachloroethylene. I wonder how that would work.

You’d have to experience the practices for yourself  in order to understand the practicality or the non-practicality of any given chemical to do the task,…..while yes, brake cleaner will remove paint, anything that’s chlorinated evaporates so fast, you’d burn through 3 or 4 cases of it trying to remove paint from something like a boiler shell,….So not so economical to do so, given the current average price @ 3 bucks a can ,12 to a case…..in the automotive industry, Kleen Strip’s brand of lacquer thinner isn’t the best. ….great for Harry Homeowner, not ideal for commercial use. There are much more potent lacquer thinners on the market in the commercial side, vs. what you see on the shelf at your favorite hardware store……

What made Aircraft Stripper so good, was the MC was suspended in gelatin. MC also evaporates very fast, ….faster than brake clean….but suspended in gelatin, gave it a chance to eat paint …..

I’ve tried to do the same thing in my head as you’re doing now, by figuring out the compositions of chemicals to know in my head what works & what doesn’t, but until you experience it, toss the chemistry labs in the trash, …..

Pat

@CALNNC posted:

I read about using plain DOT 3 brake fluid as a stripper, maybe 40 years ago, but never tried it.  The suggestion was for removing paint from plastic cars, unknown if it will work with metal, but it if you spilled it on your auto by mistake, it did a good job of causing the paint to fall apart.

The problem with brake fluid is its not safe for all plastics. Some OK, others you have destroyed the object. I have used Tide laundry detergent with Simple Green to strip Post War passenger cars. Its safe but takes about a week.

Not much good for modern paints though.

Pete

Last edited by Norton
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