All Nation NW2

If you're talking about the seam on the roof of the cab between the end plate and the cab sides  (in my mind the most notable)   I cemented with epoxy filler, sanded it smooth and once it cured applied a cut-to-fit section of thin/very fine, as in 000, emery cloth as an overlay. I should have used the epoxy filler trick on the top of step out of the cab on this guy as well, though I did on the hood end. Alternately could have applied a thin sheet of evergreen or paper, before priming and spraying too, but I like the weathered look of the emery cloth on this one.

On the cab roof, I had some very thin aluminum sheet, I think  used for banding labels.    I made a paper pattern of the roof, then cut a piece of the this stuff to fit (basically one tag  was about right size).    I then molded this piece to the roof contour including the overhang over the side windows.    When I was satisfied that it fit and laid down nicely, I glued it on with Weldwood contact cement.     this is just a contact cement similar to Walthers Goo that is readily available in hardware stores for laying floor tile.    You can buy a gallon for not a whole more than a 3-4 ounce bottle.   However, usually the 3-4 ounce bottle dries out before I can totally use it all.    I have down this on both units I have.

On the other joints, I used Tamiya while filler.    I like Tamiya better than Squadron because it seems to feather out finer without leaving lines, and it does not seem as prone to cracking as it ages.    I have not tried auto body fillers so I don't know how well they work.    Since this is diecast, you don't have to worry about solvents.    Tamiya will work on plastics too without melting them.

@atlpete posted:

If you're talking about the seam on the roof of the cab between the end plate and the cab sides  (in my mind the most notable)   I cemented with epoxy filler, sanded it smooth and once it cured applied a cut-to-fit section of thin/very fine, as in 000, emery cloth as an overlay. I should have used the epoxy filler trick on the top of step out of the cab on this guy as well, though I did on the hood end. Alternately could have applied a thin sheet of evergreen or paper, before priming and spraying too, but I like the weathered look of the emery cloth on this one.

If you filled that top step, how would the 1/48 electrician maintain the locomotive batteries?

For joining parts together it is best to use an epoxy based adhesive for a bond that is will not crack as it ages.  Most single stage fillers like spot putty or even hardener activated body filler does not possess the bonding strength to permanently hold around the seams.  Fortunately, the lack of rivet and other detail where the cab parts are joined means the hardened epoxy, once trimmed relatively flush as it sets, can be  carefully filed smooth when fully hardened.  If voids and pinholes occur in the epoxy or there are low spots in the castings then out comes the filler.

  The nature of zamac makes it one of the least malleable alloys and likewise difficult to bond without some form of mechanical fastener.  The simplest route is, as already advised, to lay new material over the roof to cover the seams....but then why not cover all 4 sides of seams while you're at it?

I have 2 examples, one totally devoid of color paint, filed only enough to remove flash then sanded smooth and evenly polished co a brushed finish.  A coat of clear poly gives the illusion that what once was a **** fine representation of an NW2 ihas turned into a hefty zamac brick.  A handsome display and good self defense against home intruders.  The second one is all business in my own PRR decoration. The brick is the GMC dirivative .

Bruce

Thank to you all.

Dick

A quick  question before this thread goes away, how are they to build, and power?

The bodies are basically screwdriver assembly.    The Mechanism does require soldering wire to the motor leads.    The rest of the mechanism is also screwdriver assembly.    Sometimes the parts require some filing or sanding to remove molding flash.

All in all, it is a pretty simple kit to assemble

The original mechanism is good running and with the original weights included with the kit, it is a very powerful puller.  

The motor mounts are sized and designed for the included All Nation motor.   Replacing the motor will require designing new mounts in most cases unless you can find something that will fit exactly lengthwise.    The original mechanism is very robust and will run on a home layout for a very long time.

@prrjim posted:

The bodies are basically screwdriver assembly.    The Mechanism does require soldering wire to the motor leads.    The rest of the mechanism is also screwdriver assembly.    Sometimes the parts require some filing or sanding to remove molding flash.

All in all, it is a pretty simple kit to assemble

The original mechanism is good running and with the original weights included with the kit, it is a very powerful puller. 

The motor mounts are sized and designed for the included All Nation motor.   Replacing the motor will require designing new mounts in most cases unless you can find something that will fit exactly lengthwise.    The original mechanism is very robust and will run on a home layout for a very long time.

And you can get a lot of upgraded details from All-Nation, too.

@prrjim posted:

........The original mechanism is good running and with the original weights included with the kit, it is a very powerful puller.  

....The original mechanism is very robust and will run on a home layout for a very long time.

Yes, my example above good for 20 or more "old school" (as in not delrin trucked or PRC) early postwar freight cars; heavy, lubricant dependent metal truck and wheel sets etc.

As an aside I did have it's original straight-cut gear drive replaced with the newer angle cut gear version primarily to replace the earlier version's sintered wheels which typically spark off and pit terribly after a lot of hours of service.  When I bought it used in 1983, the carbody was weighted up to an absurd 5 lbs ( as in every speck of space inside the car body filled with white metal including the cab.) Also it was set-up for out-side third rail which gave me an idea of old it was, in addition the sintered wheel faces were concave from that weight and years of operation, hence the eventual drive replacement.

Also the original old drive used speedometer cable to connect the motor to the gear towers whereas the replacement version has solid shafts with "knobby ball" couplings, not quite u-joints but still quite solid and functional.  Also currently re-building a used Atwater F7 acquired after an absurd amount of service use on the venerable Smokey Mountain Lines Club in Chicago, am using epoxy to fill all of the seams between the castings, again it does work well if you have the patience to apply, sand and refill until smooth.

its a good looking unit,   I was hoping to find an SW1 but have had no luck , This I could make work