All things presumably nearly equal, would you choose proto 2 or 3?

Personally, I would go with the PS 3 for two reasons: 1) the Warranty and 2) Sometimes but not always the PS3 has better sounds.

 

Opinion.

The only way I'd buy the 2.0 is if it was drastically reduced in price

I'd wait and pay the extra $5 just to get rid of the battery in PS2. Another possibility would be the draw bar rather than the cable hookup - depends on the model.

If it were a steam locomotive, I'd opt for the Proto 2...I hate the new drawbar for a heavy steamer.  For a diesel, I'd definitely take the PS3.  $5 more gets you a warranty...that alone is worth it.

PS-3 with the capacitor in place of the battery.

For $5, sit and wait.

In general, I prefer PS2 over PS3, if for no other reason than the max volume capability of PS2 is substantially higher than PS3 in my experience. 

If it was something that was hard to find and not likely to be reproduced again, it might be worth it, but since you know the re-run is coming, it wouldn't be smart to buy the old one at full price. Let it sit there until the new one is released then laugh.

I have a lot of MTH PS2 & PS3 engines. They both run equally well in my opinion. 

1. If the PS3 is only $5 more than a 10 year old PS2, you're paying too much for the PS2. My opinion is the PS2 should be 50% to 70% MSRP. Depending on wear, runtime and rarity. If the PS3 is coming out, strike rarity off the list.
2. The PS3 doesn't require a battery. To put a BCR in the PS2 to get "equivalent" capability would cost approximately $25. See #1 above.
3. You don't know if the PS2 has any unseen problems until you own it and it's not on warrantee. The risks of buying a used engine is offset by the reduced cost. See #1 above.

 

Why discuss this further. Make a lower offer for the PS2 or buy the PS3. 

Definitely agree with this comment!  I sold off my entire collection (11 PS2 engines) and bought two PS3 tin-plate sets.  Both are steam engines

 

The drawbar has caused me nothing but problems.  in fact, I have one of the engines in the repair shop right now with a problem CAUSED by the drawbar.  Not only did the board get shorted and need replacement, the drawbar was bad and needed replaced too - but my repair guy had a really hard time (like 5 months hard time) getting MTH to ship him one.

 

Not only that, it comes apart at times while running - a now known problem with this engine/tender combo.

 

Worse, even though the engine is smallish and the cars are only 7" long, it won't handle 27" curves!  BOO.

 

My other engine is the 'O' gauge Baby Blue Comet.  Had it replaced 3 times before I got one that worked!  My friend has the PS2 version and it easily handles 27" curves.  What a disappointment finding out that the drawbar prevents mine from doing the same.

 

I do like the 'no battery', but all of my engines had a  BCR anyways so there was no gain there.

 

- walt

Ogaugeguy,

    This all depends on the engine/train set and whether you want to run on 027 track, I own no P3 engines at this time because I run an inner loop of MTH 031 RealTrax and the draw bars on the P3 engines have trouble with it, all my stuff is P2 or Legacy, everything I have runs perfectly, on all my FasTrack & RealTrax.  You should be able to purchase most of the P2 Train sets for at least 30% off now, unless it's Tin Plate, they seem to hold their initial cost.  This thing about the Warranty has always griped me, if you purchase the train NIB from a dealer the Warranty by law should be good for the amount of time specified on the product, from the date of purchased, no matter how long it has set on the dealers shelf.  If you do go with the P2, replace the battery when needed with a BCR, and never worry about the Battery again, in fact I would have them install a BCR before I even took the Engine/Train set home.  This is what I did with mine.  

 

PCRR/Dave

No.

 

George

Does it have a 3 volt or 5 volt board?

If it has the 5 volt, then get the PS3.0

No brainer, PS-3 over a 10 year old PS-2. Warranty and no battery to eventually die out.

 

   Bill T. 

I would go with the older engine if it is strictly a 3 rail engine with  no 2 /3 rail options or DCC  and  change the battery to a  Cap. It's a bit of a risk with no warranty but maybe you can get the price down .

At first this seems like a no brainer to get the new one but there are other things to think about. You had a good question about internal changes that may have happened between then and now. One change I've seen with my tinplate trains is that the new engines have a Chinese motor now instead of Pittman motors like they used to. I don't know if this is happening in their non-tinplate trains too but I bet it is. Also, I think the long term durability of that wireless drawbar is suspect. 

 

 

John. 

For $5, I'd probably wait for the PS/3.  OTOH, the PS/3 isn't a panacea, the drawbar leaves a lot to be desired and is a frequent trouble spot.

 

I don't pay MSRP for any locomotive, and I sure wouldn't pay nearly that for a ten year old one, even if it is a NIB unit.

 

PS-3 for the same reason as Gilly.

Chalk up another vote for the PS3.0.  I've bought my last 2.0.

 

Curt

What possible engine is there that ten years later costs $5 more? MTH raises price regularly and over 10 years there should be a significant MSRP to MSRP difference.

10 years ago should be a 3v board which has far fewer issues than the older 5v boards. A BRC is an easy fix for years of trouble free operation.

The whole warranty issue as always bothered me, if the company is making a quality product the warranty is useless since you won't need it, if they are selling you a pile of c&$p with the best warranty on earth it is still a pile that will give you countless hours of activation and frustration while you enjoy shipping your train back and forth for covered repairs.

I would see about a better price on the PS2 version, recalculate the cost of the new one as I have a feeling it's not $5, and attempt to not have to deal with MTH's wonderful warranty.

Due to the $5 differential, I'd take the new loco with warranty.  Replacing the battery in the PS2, which will be necessary will eat up more than the differential.  Having said that, I do prefer PS2 to PS3.

 

I have bought used PS2's with the 9-volt batteries (5-volt system), with an appropriate price reduction and having an upgrade kit on the shelf.

Anything that did NOT have a (censored) battery in it.

How about that?....Someone actually summed it up correctly.Now then start working on the sales price. Thank you!, J Daddy

If the ten year old engine is at full retail and the new one is sold by a discount dealer at say 10% off (and that offers free shipping), that could explain the $5 price difference.

 

I also have to echo the input of others that the drawbar on PS3 steamers is a problem.  Actually, I have one that hasn’t been a problem and another that has been nothing but problems.

 

no doubt,  get the latest released.  No battery Proto 3.0,  nuff said...........

I would not make a choice between PS3 and PS2/3-volt based solely on the need for a 2.4 volt battery, since a supercap or BCR creates a permanent substitute.

 

One other consideration is a drawbar vs a tether.  Both have their advantages and disadvantages, as GRJ points out above.

 

 

Even if the tooling is the same, are the added on details the same?  Is the engine paint the same? 

 

Given the price of electronic repairs, I can't think of any scenario where I would pay full price for a 10 year old engine, IF the same engine is about to be reissued.  Personally, I would wait for the new engine to issue or only purchase the older engine on discount. 

 

Jim

 

 

PS3 soundfiles are a heck of a lot better than PS2...the thread with the new PS3 SD45T-2 the owner says the sound rivals his Lionel Legacy diesels!

 

PS3 has better DCS signal processors.

 

PS3 has no polarity issues when used in the 2 rail environment

 

Can swap soundfiles in a PS3 engine without worrying about locomotive speed/ gearing issues.  

 

And my favorite is some of the ASC's cry about PS3 boards not being repairable....good then go do something else.  

I would get the PS-3, no question about it for me. 

 Ididn't realize MYH's wireless drawbar is problematic and a consideration.

IMO, the so-called "problem" is most often that the operator doesn't seat the drawbar firmly in the tender's socket.

 

I own 7 PS3 steamers, Premier and Rail King Imperial, and all but 1 are completely problem-free, tender drawbars included. The lone drawbar issue that I have is due to my heavy-handedness in slightly splitting a tender drawbar socket when improperly connecting the drawbar.

 

I should just replace the socket, however, if I'm careful to firmly seat the drawbar, it does stay connected.

 

I really like the wireless drawbar, particularly because it allows for the Premier steamers  to have a tender deck plate. This, along with the uncluttered look of the wireless drawbar, make it a real plus for me.

 

I really think the drawbar gets a bad rap from some who improperly connect it.

And my favorite is some of the ASC's cry about PS3 boards not being repairable....good then go do something else. 

Like replacing the board and making more money by being able to charge more.

PROTO 3 ALL THE WAY

I would not pay MSRP unless the market had it above MSRP.  Having said that, in my opinion, the construction of the older engine are better then the newer stuff.

 

Thicker metal, better construction and wiring, etc...

 

Granted there may me more detail with newer, but manufacturing has changed over time, and cost saving initiatives have kick in.  Korean made stuff in the 97-2005 to 6 time frame is very well made stuff.  Brass brackets, copper wire, quality built in.

 

The other caveat is I would not purchase a PS-2 5V engine unless you had a significant discount for board replacement.  G

GGG has a good point.  I have Korean-made Weaver and MTH locos, all upgraded to DCS, which have been operating flawlessly for 20 and more years, and are smooth runners.  Mever any warranty or ot1her issues.

Not always the case though   Some of us are as careful as is possible.  Maybe my PS3 Christmas Engine has a tougher 'setup' than other steamers.  Besides, my also comes apart at the engine connection and that ain't easy to get to at all - I've gone as far as leaving the engineer's seat off.  I finally tied it in place.

 

My drawbar was cracked - I don't think I did that.

 

I agree - the look is a thousand times better though.

 

- walt

I should, and will, apologize to ogaugeguy for mis-directing his thread.  His question is NOT about comparing PS2 to PS3 - it's more about buying a 10 year old NIB engine or not.  I didn't address that at all - SORRY.

 

- walt

 

Yes My opinion is based on Upgrading PS-1 and conducting repairs on PS-2 from the various periods.  Also, with my Lionel engines from the Korean period.  G