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A number of posts (including mine) have noted that this new Williams ten-wheeler is perhaps the best conventional slow speed steam loco available. Just uncanny in the smooth, steady, strong pull it gives at very low scale speeds. Even at 14 volts, mine is still moving "slower" rather than faster.

I ran a little comparison yesterday, among mid and small size steam locos I have, only my Vision Hudson can can match this little loco in concentional control, smooth slow speed pulling power (the Hudson can pull more cars but can't run any slower). I expect several other Vision and JLC steamers would, too, but they are all too large to look "real" on even my 72" curves.

I've ordered an second ten-wheeler to bash - modernize it it fits into the era I model (early to mid 1950s). I don't expect many problems doing so and will post pictures when done.

HAS ANYONE CONSIDERED MORE SERIOUS MODIFICATIONS? - I will take the body off the loco when I do this and I plan to look at something as extensive as, then maybe order a third to play big-mods with. I'm wondering about:
a) replace the diecast shell with one of several in my parts bin (old K-line, Lionel, MTH locos that died and I judged unrepairable) or . .
b) make or seriously rebuild the existing shell with a new, larger boiler, etc.
c) maybe even add a rear truck if the new shell is longer.
d) add sound to the tender (have no yet taken it a part to see if there is
room, or to a boxcar that would tether right behind the tender.

This is such a good running set of machinery compared to any other steam loco I have that I think it worth serious time and effort to produce what could be just an excellent runner.

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Edited by the Webmaster to fix the title of the thread.
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I bought a second one to remodel as a "Southern style" steamer [Atlantic & Yadkin-a Southern subsidiary].Soon as it arrived I cut off the bell,unscrewed and removed the headlight. I will replace in the proper Southern location with brass Cal Scale bell and Precision Scale visored headlight on a shelf.

Aside from black repaint and yelow gold redecoration I haven't decided whether to blacken the rods, add any piping,etc. Engine will be static in a small display in my Hometown's Town Hall[old restored 1872 two-story brick general store]. Placed along with a Weaver 2-8-0 upfitted as A&Y and one of Brother Love's custom A&Y Cabooses .

I initially offered the Town History Committee HO Brass Southern models that required no modification. But when they saw the size they asked for O Scale.
A&Y "died" in 1949 and the old right-of-way is now being cleaned up as part of N.C's. "Mountain to Sea Greenway". The Road originally ran diagonally accross the State from the port of Wilmington to Mt. Airy.


ps: if you plan to remove the body use a good fitting phillips driver, apply steadty pressure and be careful. The screws on mine were extremely tight and have soft easy to deform heads.
My green Southern version requires repaint also, in Sylvan Green[Sylvan replaced Virginia Green around 1934 which didn't stand up well under the acid locomotive washers].
Last edited by Dewey Trogdon
Oh, yes, yes.

FEC fan - the Garrett idea is very do-able. I built a Garrett a few years back
using styrene, basswood, a caulk tube, various details - and 2 Industrial
Rail (Atlas) sub-scale PRR E6 4-4-2's (and a modified Weaver flatcar under
the boiler). A 4-4-2 + 2-4-4. Freelance. It runs, but I would love to see
someone use the 4-6-0 for this. It's a better loco, I think.

So buy 2, and do it! It just takes time.

Hello Dear,

Actually I don't understand perfectly but I'm thinking of basing the kit bash on an old derelict LGB mogul I have around. The boiler is sized about right and the shape is roughly , and the Stephenson valve gear is pretty close, although I'm missing some crucial parts.But maybe it would look better in the Wallchart valve gear? I have the valve motion assembly from an old Banach Annie that might be made to work. The loco will scale out to about 16 inches long, which makes it a good size for our line, and the mogul drive is pretty robust, so it can pull some cars.  Any suggestions about boiler repairs ?

I'd suggest going ahead and working on the conversion with a goal of making it run smoothly, then take it from there as regards details of "repairing" the boiler and making the details fit and look good.  My experience in "heavy bashing" projects like making a Shay out of an RMT BEEP, is this approach is best: if you do it the other way around you can do all manner of boiler work only to find that you have to make basic changes to the loco for purposes of making it run well, that mean they have to be done over.

Every time this loco comes up on here, I grind my teeth over the cancelled Mikado/Consolidation?  While I'd like to build an inspection engine, I would use

a junk box Marx engine.  Before I can think about kitbashing this WBB critter, I

need to see some small engines with all the appliances I want all of mine to have:

flying pumps, brow-mounted Elescos, and coal-firing Vanderbilt tenders.  That

Indiana Harbor Belt 0-8-0 is about the smallest I have seen with this gingerbread,

but in the great U.S. world of steam variety, I will bet somebody hung that on

other smaller engines.  As for Beyer-Garretts....there is so much in the history here

I can't find three rail models of...

Having bashed a number of locos, I would not recommend using a "junk box Marx engine" for the reasons I do not (I have a bunch in my "junk box," too.).  The WBB is a good candidate for any bashing/project because it is a very smooth running slower running and it has a very compact rather narrow construction inside so alot of alternative bodies fit it well and has fairly detailed drivers and driving mechanisms.  Marx are old, don't run that well at slow speeds, and tend to be harder to fit alternate bodies to. 

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