Anyone use an air eraser?

The Harbor Freight model works well if you dry the baking soda in the oven. The clogging you're experiencing is due to damp baking soda.

Going right along with what MRich says, you might also be pushing moisture into the soda by your air stream. It won't take much, so you may need an air dryer/moisture trap. 

Neil

I was given a Paasche air eraser. I used it once. it works but you go through the media in about ten seconds. I went back to my full size blast cabinet. I would siggest looking at one of those bench top cabinents.

Pete

Yup.

When it  clogs, tap the end several times to continue blasting using baking soda.

Bob,

All the above suggestions are spot on. The hardest thing to overcome is the desire to move to fast . Once you get the hang of it, you'll be searching for other things to do... LOL

TheBadger works quite well!

Are those after pictures?  I think the intent was to remove the lettering 100% so they could be re-lettered, right?

Thanks for all of the great replies!  I do have two moisture traps in the air line but the baking soda was straight out of the box.  I'll try oven drying.

John, SIRT's photos are "after" shots of the kind of faded lettering you can do with an air eraser as part of weathering.  If he kept going, the lettering would have been completely removed.

I used the Harbor Freight version to do this.

The aluminum oxide it came with worked great, no clogging. After I ran out of that, I used baking soda. Yes it did clog, but as SIRT said, just unscrew the tip, bang it on the bench or ground, and continue on.

It works great for stripping stripes and lettering, just takes time. Works even better for weathering as SIRT has shown.

DO IT OUTSIDE

Right Bob, that was a faded process.

Sorry, I didn't realize the post was about removing ALL the lettering.

In that case, I would have used a Mr. Clean Magic eraser which removes lettering with-in a few minutes with no mess. You do need some elbow grease, but its a much easier and faster result.

S.

In that case, I would have used a Mr. Clean Magic eraser which removes lettering with-in a few minutes with no mess. You do need some elbow grease, but its a much easier and faster result.

Can you tell me more about that?  Do you use Mr. Clean wet or dry?  What brands have you tried it on?  It seems like Atlas lettering is not too hard to remove but MTH for example is very difficult.

Start with dry first. Apply wet if it is more difficult. I've done em all. Atlas O Master, T-man, Weaver. Lionel PS series and MTH Premier. Don't generally apply any effort into non- O scale items. No point in it. Those are toy non-detailed items and should remain so as intended.

Over 4000 photos on my link below for more ideas.

S.

Sirt,

Got your message. would like to get you to possibly do a few cars for me.

Sent you an email tonight with some questions.

KBMKAM

I've used my Paasche AECR on all kinds of things.  In O gauge, only on small parts and to completely strip a UP auxiliary tender.  Worked well for those.  I use mostly baking soda with my air eraser.

I have not perfected removing lettering ONLY with my air eraser.  Very fine wet/dry sandpaper is what I use for that.  Have not tried SIRT's method of using a Magic Eraser.  On my bench are two projects calling for re-lettering so I am going to try the Mr. Clean eraser and see how I like it.

To be able to use indoors, with no mess, I repurposed a Rubbermaid storage container.  The container was cracked on the bottom already.  I cut two large openings and attached the glass from cheap picture forms to them with automotive double-sided foam tape.  Two round openings for my hands were made and I attached sleeves from an old shirt.  Also made a hole for my air hose to compressor.

I like that, I'll have to remember it. I've only used the air eraser once or twice; didn't have much luck with it and it was messy. I have a Harbor Freight sand blaster that I just take outside to use, but it would be handy to be able to use the air eraser for small jobs indoors without making a huge mess. 

I like your little chamber Keith, very nice.

Keith, that blasting box looks great!  My friend has a Paasche air eraser with the big can like yours.  He's not sure he has all of the parts.  Do the 2 hoses just connect to the lid or is there a tube that extends from the lid down into the abrasive container?  What air pressure do you use with baking soda?

Thanks,

Bob,

The two hoses connect to the lid...no tube inside container.  I adjust air pressure as I go, usually without looking.  I'm guessing most the time I'm at or around 40psi.  With the canister, you need to make sure that there is no grit in the threads of the lid or on the rubber seal. I always check that the rubber seal is seated before closing and that the lid is on tight.

SIRT,

Thanks for the tip.  The Magic Eraser worked great on a Lionel tank car I just did.  Was very easy.  I found an extra power version so I used it.