ARMY Decal Sets, Anyone Interested?

I am interested for my flats.  What do they look like and how much are they?

Thanks, Bob

VERY much so. Please let us know !!

Count me in!!!

yes!!!! all branches

I would be interested. I am centering my layout on WW2 era, and troop/supply trains.

I think you guys missed the parade... this is from over a year ago, with the very first post in reply being today.

He made an announcement sometime ago that he was no longer doing O gauge decals. I kind of felt bad for him at the time as he was a forum sponsor and seemed to be going to some lengths to offer new items, saying there had been little response or interest.

But if I recall correctly, that thread turned into a mix of praises and complaints from others about poor communication and lack of receiving merchandise. There's other such unresolved complaints if you search.

I had book marked their website ages ago, and find now it isn't working at all.

I missed that big time

Larry Sr. posted:

I missed that big time

Yea, me too.......

Dang..

I didn't mean to rain on anyone's parade, but I do a lot of repainting, so I pay attention to decal suppliers.

May I suggest taking a look at the Microscale website. They do have military decals of all sorts, but the scale sizes of them is all over the place. There's also categories listed for the 4 military branches. You might have to cob some from different sets to arrive at what you want, but it is an option. You could add in the alphabet sets and spell out "US ARMY" or "USMC" but there's certainly a learned skill level to cutting out those little letters and then applying them so they line up straight.

Because I'm a semi-scale, 027 guy I can make Microscale decals in other scales work for me. Here's a tip for you. Most regular sets measure approximately 5-1/4 by 8-1/2. I blow up the decal image off the Microscale website, on my computer to as close to that size as I can get. It gives me a pretty good idea what is going to work for me and what isn't.

For some of the 027 and traditionally sized train cars, full 1/48 scale decals end up being too big.

Just a suggestion. I also found this site. Never used them and haven't looked over everything, but if you want military decals, might be worth your time.

http://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfershttp://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfers

Curios if anyone knows of O scale poster size decals of bomber art and pin-ups for the well era. I 

If you want to see mine

What you see in blue is printed in white

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

I didn't mean to rain on anyone's parade, but I do a lot of repainting, so I pay attention to decal suppliers.

May I suggest taking a look at the Microscale website. They do have military decals of all sorts, but the scale sizes of them is all over the place. There's also categories listed for the 4 military branches. You might have to cob some from different sets to arrive at what you want, but it is an option. You could add in the alphabet sets and spell out "US ARMY" or "USMC" but there's certainly a learned skill level to cutting out those little letters and then applying them so they line up straight.

Because I'm a semi-scale, 027 guy I can make Microscale decals in other scales work for me. Here's a tip for you. Most regular sets measure approximately 5-1/4 by 8-1/2. I blow up the decal image off the Microscale website, on my computer to as close to that size as I can get. It gives me a pretty good idea what is going to work for me and what isn't.

For some of the 027 and traditionally sized train cars, full 1/48 scale decals end up being too big.

Just a suggestion. I also found this site. Never used them and haven't looked over everything, but if you want military decals, might be worth your time.

http://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfershttp://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfers

Brian,  you mentioned you do a lot of repainting. How do you strip your metal shells? My brother used to bead blast them for me, but can't anymore. Some have said soak them in Castrol Super Clean. 

Thanks 

I have a similar question like Matt. I have used 91 percent isopropyl alcohol to remove some numbers here and there with a plastic knife, toothbrush and elbow grease.  But now want to strip a whole plastic gondola.  Contemplatin turning it upside down in a plastic tub for 3 mins.  Someone also recommended brake oil?  Thanks

warok posted:

If you want to see mine

What you see in blue is printed in white

o

This is what I was looking for..Do you sell sheets like this for o scale? Bob

MattR posted:

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

I didn't mean to rain on anyone's parade, but I do a lot of repainting, so I pay attention to decal suppliers.

May I suggest taking a look at the Microscale website. They do have military decals of all sorts, but the scale sizes of them is all over the place. There's also categories listed for the 4 military branches. You might have to cob some from different sets to arrive at what you want, but it is an option. You could add in the alphabet sets and spell out "US ARMY" or "USMC" but there's certainly a learned skill level to cutting out those little letters and then applying them so they line up straight.

Because I'm a semi-scale, 027 guy I can make Microscale decals in other scales work for me. Here's a tip for you. Most regular sets measure approximately 5-1/4 by 8-1/2. I blow up the decal image off the Microscale website, on my computer to as close to that size as I can get. It gives me a pretty good idea what is going to work for me and what isn't.

For some of the 027 and traditionally sized train cars, full 1/48 scale decals end up being too big.

Just a suggestion. I also found this site. Never used them and haven't looked over everything, but if you want military decals, might be worth your time.

http://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfershttp://www.redfroghobbies.com/...rcher_Fine_Transfers

Brian,  you mentioned you do a lot of repainting. How do you strip your metal shells? My brother used to bead blast them for me, but can't anymore. Some have said soak them in Castrol Super Clean. 

Thanks 

 

 

Matt,

For metal engine shells I've used a few of the spray on paint removers found at the big box and local hardware stores, both citrus and non-citrus based. I prefer the thick gel-type or foam type over the thinner liquids.  It's a tedious process, waiting for the paint to lift of and then using a small wire brush to remove the lifted paint. It usually requires multiple applications to get it all off, especially in the nooks and crannies. Once it's complete I wash it several times in warm water and dish washing liquid. There are other solutions like Super Clean, Brake Fluid... but I have never tried them.

Klean-Strip and Citristrip are two I have used.

I have no recommendations for plastic. I'll leave that to others.

Mike

Matt, I don't have any die-cast rolling stock, which do have more paint on them. I've only done older beaten postwar steam engines and I don't strip those. I sand and smooth out any imperfections, clean the shell and then prime and paint it. I've never seen any real need to strip those.

Painted rolling stock is another matter, because any existing lettering, heralds, etc. can potentially be visable through a repainting by the paint being raised anywhere there was previous lettering. I've used 91% isopropyl alchohol, automotive brake fluid, original PineSol and paint removers made for model trains.

It really depends on the manufacturer and the process they used. Others have said, and I agree, that MTH stuff seems to be the most difficult to strip. They obviously use very durable materials. I remember one of the easiest I ever did was a Lionel C&NW Waffle Box Car... the paint came off that with real ease. Some of the K-Line stuff after they went to China, strips quite easily. Ironically I've found the K-Line cars made in the US don't strip as easily. Of course, those are usually an unpainted, molded color car with the lettering.

Postwar stuff is another story. It may strip easily enough, but then you have the indentations from the heat stamped lettering. I used to try and fill those in, but anymore it seems to be more effort than it's worth. I sand down and try to just smooth out the indentations so they are somewhat less noticeable.

I started to do repainting because I also like modern road names that were never put on the smaller 027 types of cars. Gradually this grew into kitbashing and scratchbuilding. I tend to look for well used or beaten up rolling stock as candidates. Or extremely common pieces that are unlikely to have more value than they currently do. If it's something newer (I mentioned MTH above), it's because I got a real deal on something.

And I'm also not too picky about prototypical fidelity. I consider myself like an impressionist painter when it comes to repaints... I'm just doing a representation. Like I just did a Lionel 2-bay hopper in the CSX bathtub gondola scheme, mixing decals from different sets. That might make some cringe, but again, it's just a representation. And besides, one of the current production bathtub gondolas would look completely out of place, size-wise on my layout. So I've learned to be happy with the limitations.

brianel_k-lineguy posted:

Matt, I don't have any die-cast rolling stock, which do have more paint on them. I've only done older beaten postwar steam engines and I don't strip those. I sand and smooth out any imperfections, clean the shell and then prime and paint it. I've never seen any real need to strip those.

Painted rolling stock is another matter, because any existing lettering, heralds, etc. can potentially be visable through a repainting by the paint being raised anywhere there was previous lettering. I've used 91% isopropyl alchohol, automotive brake fluid, original PineSol and paint removers made for model trains.

It really depends on the manufacturer and the process they used. Others have said, and I agree, that MTH stuff seems to be the most difficult to strip. They obviously use very durable materials. I remember one of the easiest I ever did was a Lionel C&NW Waffle Box Car... the paint came off that with real ease. Some of the K-Line stuff after they went to China, strips quite easily. Ironically I've found the K-Line cars made in the US don't strip as easily. Of course, those are usually an unpainted, molded color car with the lettering.

Postwar stuff is another story. It may strip easily enough, but then you have the indentations from the heat stamped lettering. I used to try and fill those in, but anymore it seems to be more effort than it's worth. I sand down and try to just smooth out the indentations so they are somewhat less noticeable.

I started to do repainting because I also like modern road names that were never put on the smaller 027 types of cars. Gradually this grew into kitbashing and scratchbuilding. I tend to look for well used or beaten up rolling stock as candidates. Or extremely common pieces that are unlikely to have more value than they currently do. If it's something newer (I mentioned MTH above), it's because I got a real deal on something.

And I'm also not too picky about prototypical fidelity. I consider myself like an impressionist painter when it comes to repaints... I'm just doing a representation. Like I just did a Lionel 2-bay hopper in the CSX bathtub gondola scheme, mixing decals from different sets. That might make some cringe, but again, it's just a representation. And besides, one of the current production bathtub gondolas would look completely out of place, size-wise on my layout. So I've learned to be happy with the limitations.

Thanks for the input. I am talking about old postwar steamers also.  Maybe I'll sand and paint like you. 

Matt 

CWAROK,   Yes, do you have decals, military, for sale.  Or, do you have a good supplier of these you use and recommend?

Thanks,

Jesse    TCA   12-68275

Hello all from France, and I know my English is not perfect.

I made two sheets size A4 (21 x 29,7cm) for O scale.

To print them in a professional printing office I pay 33€ (Very good paper with protective coating)

The price declines as the volume purchased increases.

My printing office : https://customdecal.fr

Shipping costs for USA are not expensive for 2 sheets or more.