Skip to main content

Hello all,

for those who have ventured into the battery operation i thought i would put up a couple photos and a short video of my recent Atlas O sw battery conversion. Not too tough of an install, should be a perfect set up for a small switching layout. Im really enjoying the battery route, no wires or cleaning track all the time. enjoy

Benimageimageimage

Attachments

Images (3)
  • image
  • image
  • image
Videos (1)
trim.E7C52343-A627-4EB9-81FC-20FB166080CF
Original Post

Replies sorted oldest to newest

I'm glad to see others trying out BPRC

What system did you use and how long is the 1000Mah battery lasting?

I'm using 2000Mah NiMh and 2200Mah LiPo packs in my steamers, electronics are from RCS Australia.  I get at least over 2 hours run time, takes 2 hours to recharge a typical pack.

Do you have to open the engine up to turn on/off the battery and charge it?  RCS Australia (so does RCS of NE) has a module with on/off and charging jack.

IMO the conversion was much easier than the DCS PS2 conversions I did when in 3-rail.

for this install im using cvp products airwire convrtr, sountraxx decoder and a lenz for the motor control. havent done a full test of run time but im thinking 45mins give or take. plenty for a small switching layout. Switch for on/off is located in the same spot that the TMCC equipped locomotives have theirs. For charging im really leaning towards putting the jack under the exhaust stacks and just having that whole piece removable.

Ben

Last edited by BenH

I don't know about the others, but I don't like the idea of using a battery car when switching is my goal.  The whole purpose of switching is to leave/pick up cars, not drag one around the whole time.

But, why not use a caboose as a battery car?  A local switcher with a caboose (aka rolling office) would be a normal thing I would think, where else would the conductor do his paperwork?

The 2000Mah battery pack I use is approx. 1x1x4 inches, may fit inside a caboose if there's no interior, or if you could find/make a pack that would fit between the sides of the molded interior you could keep the interior.  A 1000Mah battery is even smaller and may be a better choice if going with a caboose/battery car.  A 4-cell inline battery pack may fit nicely.

But then you have a tether between the engine and battery car.

Nice conversion. The only thing I think I would do differently is use high quality LiFePo4 cells instead of LiPo. Just a personal preference from my experience in RC aircraft. I've seen some nasty fires. LiFePo4 batteries do not have the fire danger and can be safely charged much faster. Typically 5c-10c charge rate. For those that don't know what that means, a typical low quality LiPo is only safe to charge at 1c rate which means a 1000mAh, or 1A battery takes 1hr. A high quality LiPo or LiFePo4 can be changed at higher rates. A 5c charge rate would charge in 12 minutes or less. The drawback is that LiFePo4 cells aren't as energy dense as LiPos so they are larger. The same goes of NiMH which are also safer.

Which dead rail system did you use? Tam Valley?

Add Reply

Post
×
×
×
×
Link copied to your clipboard.
×
×