Atlas Switches for reversing loops

Hello Ted. I did the same thing - tore out my Fastrack and replaced it with Atlas to kill the noise. I have two reversing loops. It was a simple as using DZ-1000 switch machines on the Atlas switches to add anti-derail functionality. Mine work flawlessly in the manner you describe (no manual switching required).

Although Atlas made anti-derail boards for their switch machines, they are long gone and Atlas told me they won’t make them again. The DZ machines cost the same as the Atlas boards, so you get anti-derail functionality for the same cost as the add-on boards.  They are very easy to wire.

If you search the forum for adding anti-derailing functionality to Atlas switches, you’ll get a lot of good info, including suggestions for how to buy the DZ-1000s (hint: buy them from a reseller and not directly from Z Stuff).

thanks - will look that up - appreciate fast response

Out of the box, the Atlas switches won’t automatically switch their thrown position like the Fastrack switches do.  However, the points are sprung so if a train goes through a switch that is thrown the wrong way, each set of wheels on the train will move the points so the train does not derail.  As each wheel set passes the points spring back to the initially thrown position.  I have occasionally run a train through a switch that was thrown in the wrong direction and never had a derailment, but I don’t know how reliable the spring return would be in constant usage.

I would add that there is an adjustment setting on the return spring that you might have to experiment with.  A higher the tension the more positive the return to position of the points, but the harder it is for the passing wheels to move the points so the train does not derail.

thanks - i am going to set up a test loop and try - i also ordered a DZ-1000 and relay - will see if that can help

@JFC454 posted:

Out of the box, the Atlas switches won’t automatically switch their thrown position like the Fastrack switches do.  However, the points are sprung so if a train goes through a switch that is thrown the wrong way, each set of wheels on the train will move the points so the train does not derail.  As each wheel set passes the points spring back to the initially thrown position.  I have occasionally run a train through a switch that was thrown in the wrong direction and never had a derailment, but I don’t know how reliable the spring return would be in constant usage.

I had read the same thing back when I converted my layout. I tried them relying only on the spring tension.  I had derailments frequently to the point of frustration. I suspect that’s why Atlas made the non-derail boards to go with their machines. Admittedly, I did not tinker with the spring tension, so maybe there is a solution to be had there. DZ-1000s solved the problem with active movement of the points and were only about 20 bucks.

I have two 3 rail mainlines which I usually leave run on their own like a fish tank, each with two reverse loops.  Of the four Ross switches involved there are no switch machines at all.  Each train throws the points when it comes into them and that routes the train when it comes back.  No derailment problems at all.

My three level 2 rail walk around the wall layout on levels 2,3 & 4 have 105 turnouts.  Some of those turnouts are Caboose thrown, some Tortiose, however over 80 of the point pairs are only finger thrown as needed.  Being dcc friendly there is no shorting.  Also, no derail concern because the first axle of either a caboose or an engine corrects the points from a frog approach.  My finger sets the points for a point approach.

Being too busy has it's own rewards.  I have a case of Tortiose and drawers filled with Caboose hand controls but not have needed them.  May never need them.

thanks - glad for the quick response yes - will post what happens - will try a trial layout with DZ-1000 and without to see if it will work

Atlas Switches.  Using a regular atlas switch motor you can put insulated piece of track 1 or 2 inches long to the switch motor.  When the train hits the insulated section of track it will throw the switch.  If you go over 2 inches  you can not leave a car or engine on the insulated piece of track because it will keep power to the motor and burn up the switch motor.  That is why you only use 1 or 2 inches of insulated track.

If you need atlas track or switches I have some for sale on the For Sale Section of the Forum.  If you have any questions you can email at slewis74@austin.rr.com

Phil Lew

With a 6 or 7 car train that’s a lot of wheels electrifying the Atlas switch motor if wired for non detail.  You may burn it up. You’ll have to try Phil’s suggestions and feel the switch motor for excessive heat.

FWIW, @Lee Willis used Atlas track with Fastrack switches as he found the Fastrack switches more reliable.  You might consider that route...

A layout i visited did not have a switch machine on any of the atlas switches, they all moved easily and stayed in place, no picking the points.  I have not had that degree of sucess with ross or gargraves however. 

My (admittedly limited) experience with Atlas O switches placed on a local club layout was "mixed" at best; frustrating at worst. The Atlas O track on that modular layout was favored by most club members worked well and looked great, but ...

The spring-loaded Atlas O switches performed an anti-derail action when a locomotive passed across it, but some lightweight freight cars (empty gondolas and flat cars) did not have enough "heft" to push the swivel rail to the appropriate position -- thus a derail.  We bought two Atlas O electric anti-derail kits to test the benefit of electrified swivel rail action, but never installed them because (unfortunately) the club disbanded soon after. 

The anti-derail function of Lionel Fastrack switches were very reliable - never a derailment.

Mike Mottler    LCCA 12394

If you're buying new switches, then use Atlas track with ROSS switches. You can buy them wired with DZ1000s and just rig the motors up for anti-derail.

But you dont need a switch machine, you can spring the switch to operate as a reversing switch. The spring out of a click pen is enough to hold the switch closed, but light enough that it'll let the points move if a wheel tries to push on it. Loop the spring through the hole in the throw bar, and connect the other end to a screw or nail run into the layout base. Just have to find the right tension on the spring to keep the points closed.