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 I got one I haven't run into before. Got a beat up engine in (70-3001-1)w/ PS2 and it wouldn't run in conventional or DCS. Looked inside and someone took out the battery. I installed a spare BCR2 and no better. Checked the BCR right away and got 1.5 volts. Thought it might be bad so put a battery from a new upgrade kit into it. Powered up and no better. Checked battery voltage at 2.5 volts before and after trying.

 Put it on the track with battery inside and connected to DCS loader. Finds the engine stuck at address #1 keeps getting error message trying to retrieve info from engine. It has a lot of gargled stuff listed. It's like the person who loaded the file used the letter y all the way across one column of info (engine type? or similar). Some other stuff written in there like that.

 So I tried to load a new soundset. It can't write over sector 0, or the first step. Tried the retry button but the loader gets stuck trying to write the first sector. I'm going to check the wiring closer to make sure it's right. Maybe the charging circuit isn't connected right but the board looks scrambled.

 Is there any fix???

One other thing. It comes up silent in conventional and DCS mode. You can hear the relay click. If you press direction with the DCS remote, you can hear the relay click again each time. No other results.

 I tested the motor directly with DC and she runs good. I may try a spare upgrade board inside if the wiring looks good.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe
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I'd try every reset, conventional, feature, factory, first.  Then I'd ask the forum.

 

I have one loco, a PS2 3-volt upgrade, that confuses the loader program into thinking it's 5-volt.  Problem with that is that I downloaded, without complaint, a 5-volt battery, and thereafter I had to try many reloadings to get it working again.  But that's another story.

 

When you start the newest loader program, it states in fine print the volt style of the file, and then as it searches for the loco, it lists port, then address, and then, briefly, whether loco is 5-volt or 3-volt.  Does yours conform?

 

Checking battery voltage before and after trying is meaningless (unless it shows 0, the mark of an internal discontinuity).   Battery MUST be tested under load.

Last edited by RJR

It loaded into the remote with great difficulty (long time). Some of the softkeys don't make sense. Some are for diesel, some for steamers, some I've never seen. The engine won't do a thing.

I put a spare board set in and she runs fine. So I think the board is scrambled. I will try some type of reset with the Z4000. I would think that loading a sound file, would reset the board. It can't get past step 1.

 

Joe,  No running in Conventional, but did it start up or just no response?  The data you see is that from a serial file via a dealer loader?  What are you reading?

The factory serial file data is just yyyy. with only some specific data.

 

Need to figure out if you have a good battery circuit and board set first.  If it won't even start up in conventional, I believe you have a bad board.  Unless this doesn't have a sound file loaded.  G

 

 

Originally Posted by GGG:

Joe,  No running in Conventional, but did it start up or just no response?  The data you see is that from a serial file via a dealer loader?  What are you reading?

The factory serial file data is just yyyy. with only some specific data.

 

Need to figure out if you have a good battery circuit and board set first.  If it won't even start up in conventional, I believe you have a bad board.  Unless this doesn't have a sound file loaded.  G

 

 

That's why I tried to load one but the loader fails.

It does nothing in conventional except click when power is applied.

A fresh board set and she runs fine.

Just never had a board that wouldn't load or talk with the loader without errors like this.

 I'm charging the battery outside the engine for one last try at a reset. I don't believe it will work..... but hey! I'm usually wrong.

Last edited by Engineer-Joe

Joe, Sounds like it may be a damaged board.  If there is a short or some other damages the relay may click but the board won't start up.  Even with no battery installed it would start if the board was ok.  So this charging routine isn't going to result in anything.  Remove the battery and try to start it in conventional.  If it doesn't start up and you do the conventional reset with no results, the board is bad.   G

So I am stumped now with this engine. I'm looking for a short and I can't find anything. I think the board was abused and there were several issues that did it in. It will start up briefly and then shut down for a long period. It wouldn't drive anything. I unplugged everything and got the board to work with just the stock motor by replacing the motor diode with the G gauge one.

 There might have been some type of short in the pot for the smoke unit? It only now works up full. The board will shut down if any stock accessory harness is plugged in. All the board's white harness receptacles are slightly blackened. Even the stock speaker leads are blackened right at the harness?

So I'm trying one by one to isolate the problem(s). I can't find any shorts other than that smoke pot problem.

 I took a spare 12 wire harness and just used the speaker on pins 5 and six. It will run the motor and sounds.

 If I add just a spare headlight, (smoke or any other function,) the board shuts down after a few seconds. It acts as if there's no battery and quits immediately. The headlight was lit when it ran.

 Has anyone seen a board that shuts down with just adding the headlight?

 The board will run the motor and sound fine on the bench. I believe there was some type of short in the stock harness or similar that has taken out the board's function capabilities? Is the motor drawing the board's max capability?

 This one is kicking me!!

why not try the suspected board in another locomotive that you know works and but substitute your power supply board and see if the same symptoms apply, if they follow the board to a good working locomotive you then know for sure that your power supply board is bad and can have George repair it for you!

Good Luck trouble shooting!

Alan

Last edited by Alan Mancus

Well here goes. I already swapped out boards and was using a new set to verify any shorts or any other issues were fixed.

 While swapping out a power supply board, I noticed a pin is snapped off the original. I used a breadboard pin filed down and tried to repair the missing pin. So far, the board is still out. Even with the new power supply board, the board won't fire up again. Sometimes it comes back to life after some time. It gets scrambled. So I'll try again tomorrow.

 The engine runs fine with a replacement set of diesel boards in there.

I would just like to see this board get used. It's probably just a gonner. Doesn't draw any extra power. Most of the time, it only clicks when conventional power is applied.

 It seems like this board set just got the heck kicked out of it. I bet someone else has swapped out the power board because it seems to be sloppy in it's jacks.

 

Last edited by Engineer-Joe
Originally Posted by repair technician:

did you try an conventional reset?

Alan

I ran into some strange thing one time as well and thought the boards were gone , but luckily the conventional rest restored the boards to proper working order.

Alan

 

If not George I 'm sure George can fix them for you!

Alan

 

It is weird, but every once in a while you see some weird stuff.  Maybe the 3V power supply is going.  Next time you have a repair send it again.   G

 you take a limited risk and see if it's just the board causing the issue.

 

Really??!! I've preformed over 250 PS2 conversions and repaired an endless amount of PS2 and now PS3 locos. Been a certified MTH DCS Tech/ ASC for over 10 years now and have never resorted to sacrificing a set of boards to check for wiring shorts.

 

If I suspect bad boards then that's where the PS2 Test Fixture comes in handy. And the pricey PS3 Test fixture.

 

Last edited by Casey Jones2

I tried the smoke unit in another engine and it was fine. I sent the boards to G and he tested them. They are weak and keep shutting down along with other odd things.

 I appreciate the help CJ. I don't think you know the whole sequence of events.

I was actually talking with GGG and hoping Stan would comment on some anomaly that prevents the board from powering any functions. Maybe it just  went south finally. Intermittent electrical issues can be a bear to find. I would expect you to know that!!

So I got your point and thanks again for the expertise to say that you never take any risks.

 So again, why do you keep pounding on some issue that is over??? 

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