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Here are a couple of pictures showing what I have done with MTH Realtrax.  It is a time consuming process to ballast the plastic roadbed, but I do think it looks a whole lot better.  I start by painting the the whole assemmbly (track and plastic roadbed with ties) flat brown and then use Elmer' Glue all to adhere the ballast to the roadbed.  Essentially I paint the glue on everywhere I want the ballast and after going a distance sprinkle on the ballast.  I generally use Brennan's Better Ballast for mainline and yard tracks and Woodland Scenics Medium Blended Gray Ballast for sidings just to further differentiate them.  I also tend to make the sidings look a little less well maintained by adding some of Brennan's Fine Natural Earth between the ties along with the grass tuffs I purchased from Scenic Express.  Once I have applied the the fine earth and grass tuffs I wet things down with  some Isopropyl Rubbing Alcohol and follow-up by spraying on some Woodland Scenics Scenic Cement.  Once dry the track is ready for installation on the railroad.   I'm careful to avoid spraying the alcohol and glue/cement around the switch points.  I should also note that I do not ballast the roadbed beneath the switchpoints. 

 

I've got some more track to ballast and will see if I can put together a short video of the process.  Bo   

 

You can find a little more about the process along with a couple more pictures on my website at http://www.bostrains.com 

 

Maryville Siding Trackage 003

 

Closeup of MTH Ballasted Track 006

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Images (2)
  • Maryville Siding Trackage 003
  • Closeup of MTH Ballasted Track 006
Last edited by railhead53

Looking very good!


One thing if I may...

 

BURY some of that Siding and especially yard/engine tracks up to the Top of the rail.

 

You may be able to find old style Plates that go on the sides of the rail every 39 feet on the sidings to indicate older track-age versus the modern Welded rail... (What year did they start those anyway?)

 

I have a section of Kato Unitrack which I used Bragden Powders in different ways to weather the roadbed. It turned out well enough that I am considering it for the MTH Track... however I have already been leaning towards Lionel Fastrack...

Lee 145, thanks!  I will try try to bury some of the siding and had I  thinking how best to the bring the ground level up for the engine and yard tracks.  It appears that once I lay the track and secure it to the homosote I will have to lay some kind of material between the rails to bring the ground level up to the rails.  I am thinking about cutting strips of 1/4 inch hard board for that purpose.

 

Although I have heard of Bragden's Powders I have not used them.  If I were to use them, lets say to further weather my track, do the powders need to be secured with some kind of over spray or will they remain in place without it?  Bo 

 

 

Visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

 

Railhead, you are welcome.

 

I used 1/4" woodland scenics foam sheets between tracks in HO.

 

I guess in O Scale it will be 1/2 inch and roughed up quite a bit in terms of elevation varying a foot or more in random places.

 

I keep a can of dullcote, if only to stop the bradgon powder from getting onto the fingers and then transferred to a now angry wife's keepsake... =)

Thanks railhead53 (BO).  I watched both videos and you did an amazing job on the track.  I really like how you did it before laying the track down.  The only thing I would need to do is leave an opening for my screws in their respective places.  One issue I see is with the Realtrax switches.  Have you done one, yet?  I thought about it and figured you would need to leave the wiring area open and as far as the switch, it would be tough to ballast where the rails move, but I am guessing it could be done.  Currently in a temporary location and my trains are in storage.  I watched someone do a video using Atlas and it was nicely done, however not sure what a Realtrax switch would be like.  In the other method, the ballast would have to be chiseled away to remove the track as it was done after being screwed down due to the roadbed being separate from the track.  He laid the roadbed, then the track.  Another issue is my Realtrax graduated and elevated trestles.  I have a 24' x 12' table with two independent lines connected by one switch to give me the ability to access my railroad crossing on one end and my train yard by the harbor.  Both lines cross my Hellgate bridge.  One problem would be attaching the top piece of the trestle to the track.  Typically you slide it on.  You can force it on both sides, but it isn't easy.  Again, excellent tutorial on the videos.  I love the look of the brown rails and ties.  Great job!

prrm1b,

Thanks for the compliment about the videos.  I do think the improved appearance of the track is worth the effort. 

 

Yes, I have ballasted a number of switches.  After publishing my first videos on the subject of ballasting MTH Realtrax I decided I was not all that happy with them.  I worked today to create a single video on the subject.  In this new video I discussed ballasting the Realtrax switches.  I hope to be done with it in the next day or two.

 

I have not and would not recommend attempting to ballast under the switchpoints as I believe the risk of fouling the points to great.  While I am trying to improve the overall appearance of my track I am not willing to risk undermining their reliability.

 

I have not utilized MTH's graduated/elevated trestle system.  I might suggest though that once the track reaches the trestle bents that you utilize the standard track (track that has not been ballasted) until the track comes off the other end of the elevated trestle arrangement.

 

I think this second video, the "improved edition" will actually be more helpful and easier to watch.  

 

Thanks again, Bo 

 

 

Visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

 

 

 

railhead53,

          My thoughts exactly on the trestles.  I didn't give it a great deal of thought, so I wanted to ask knowing I may have missed a techinique.  I agree with you on the appearance.  I have a lot of track, but it would be worth it no doubt about it.  If someone would have told me about what you did without seeing it I would have thought they were crazy.  Thank you for taking the time to show everyone!!  The task you took on is enough already and you decided to share your time and make videos to help others in the train community.  Several people will benefit from your generosity.  Happy Railroading!

Jeff,

Thank you for the compliment regarding the video.  The ballasting is time consuming, but as you said I believe it was the right choice.  In the long wrong I will be happier with how the track appears on the layout.  If you have time take a look at the "new improved" video.  It's easier I think to watch!  Bo 

 

 

Visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com

Dave,

I beleive I understand what you are asking.  As you note, I mask all of the center rails because I prefer for them to remain black.  I do not mask the switch points and therefore, they too are painted the flat brown.  To date, I have not had a problem with the switchpoints becoming stuck or sticking due to the spray paint.  I will say that whenever I am painting I generally try not to apply anymore paint than is necessary for good coverage.  But with that said, I really have not had to worry about the switch points.    Bo 

 

 

Visit my website Bo's Trains at http://www.bostrains.com   

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