B&M GP18 Project

Being a B&M fan myself, I would love to see either MTH or Lionel produce a GP18 in O gauge, but I am not holding my breath.   What other RRs besides the B&M had these?  Not many, I'll wager.   

Are you using the OSA Chopped nose GP7/9 window config for this build?

 405 GP18s were built, Missouri Pacific owned 151 of them.

Rock Island a number of them, IC, GTW, CNW, L&N, SP,  and many more. Here is link to a list with photos.

 

 http://www.rrpicturearchives.n...ocoList.aspx?mid=130

 

The Missouri Pacific had the largest group, 146 units, both high and low nose. 

The Texas & Pacific had 5 which would go to the Missouri Pacific making that total 151 units.

 

Here is my rendition of a T&P GP18. Started with a MTH GP20 and tweaked it.

Used Red Caboose GP9 parts trees for most of the changes.

Cut off turbo stack and added the two exhaust stacks. Added a headlight in low nose. Upper headlight has oscillating Mars light. Sanded off the cast in grab irons and added the separate grab irons. Added bell to roof.

What I did not do was change the louvers on the car body as there was a subtle difference between the GP20 and GP18. Also, many of the MP and T&P units had a different style fan cover over the 48 inch cooling fans..

Applied paint, and Micro Scale decals, which included the nose stripes, and I am pleased with my representation of the T&P GP18.

Pictured below is the MTH GP20 turned GP18, and a MTH GP9 in the background in factor paint.

I have since adjusted the headlight as the LED was sticking out to far.

Dan

I noticed that the B&M had 6 GP18's, only the last one, 1755, had the two 48inch cooling fans, the first 5 had the four 36 inch cooling fans. That in itself seems it would be easier to model. The Red Caboose unit is a good starting point.

I also saw that OSA or Des Plaines Hobbies offered a low nose, wondered if it had the slope to it.  

 

Good Luck on your build!

 

Dan 

I appreciate all the good karma so far.   Jim, if you get a chance do a search on my previous posts.  I serious doubt big manufactures would spend the money on tooling.  It's just easier to use an existing mold and just add paint and markings and call it what it's not.  Ya can't blame them.  New tooling is a fortune and when everyone wants a 611J or Y6B, the money talks.  Who wouldn't?

Dan, the forum said my best bet was to use Red Caboose body. The part tree has everything I need.  Jim brought a Des plaines window which I took out the middle mutton.  He also brought me the correct number board/headlight visor.  The black one in the pic. is mth gp20.  I can look it up, but if you got a part number for the short hood? I would be grateful!

Chris,

Don't know if this is it or not, you could give them a call and see.

 

P&D Hobbies, P1002, hood end GP20  There is no picture.

http://pdhobbyshop.com/show_pr...facturer=P%26amp%3BD

 

You can also check here, but I did not see it. It may have been under another listing and I think it was made to replace a Red Caboose geep high nose. 

http://www.desplaineshobbies.c...73/O-3-Rail-Diesels/

 

 

Dan

It would be the same body for the NYC GP20s (bought in bulk) and just a hatch difference (turbo) and the nose angle would be key, as I don't believe that I've seen any scale GP18s/20s from any of the manufacturers.  MTH has a Railking and Lionel has a scale-sized version, but both have limited detailing, and Lionel's is lacking sound/command control.

 

 

Oops!  Had to edit.  I was in a rush!

Started chopping the nose down.  It needs to drop a little farther, so the roof angles up to meet the windshield. 

This is very rough draft. 

This is how the fan configuration will be.  sloping the roof will be the hardest part.  an recommendations on model/puddy to fill spaces?

 

 

Need to fill in the headlight and number boards.

 chris

 

 

 

Looks like you have a good start.  I like green super jet puddy and gap filling ca for filling gaps.  The super jet wet sands really nice.

Chris,

 

Your project looks very similar to mine. I favor the Maine Central and they had a few "chopped nose" GP7's. Like you, my project started off using a Red Caboose shell. I contacted my good friend and fellow forum member, Old Goat and had him do the modifications. I also had plans of possibly using a donor Atlas chassis for the running gear keeping the TMCC set-up. Problem with that, is that the chopped nose prevents the use of the front motor. Had thoughts of possibly removing the motor from the truck and using only the rear for power. A bigger problem is the chassis itself. You would think that since Atlas  purchased the RC molds and made some detail modifications the bodies would swap. Not! not even close. I will probably wind up using the complete RC chassis and motor and install my ERR Beep Comander board for control. Good luck!

 

CCN, that stinks! I was hoping to swap out with an atlas O GP9 and use just the one motor.  I figure most people, and I am only speculating, haul 15 or less railcars per train.  That's about my average.  One motor is enough to do the job! If it isn't enough horse power, i would consist up with another Engine.  Plan "B" is instead chop the nose and cab off a Atlas GP9 and customize the nose. 

 

Chris

I need to amend what I said earlier about the Red Caboose body fitting on the the Atlas chassis. After an initial phone conversation with Chris this AM, I spent some time at the workbench and disassembled one of my Atlas GP7/9's removing the body. I then took my modified RC body (with low nose) and compared it to the Atlas. They mated up exactly in size. I could not lower the RC body completely onto the Atlas chassis due to the front motor still mounted to the truck assembly but I could tell it would fit. The RC body does not have the screw in body mount posts and a small section of the lower body underneath the cab will have to be clearanced for the TMCC toggle switches (but that part will be hidden behind the cab tool boxes). By researching the Atlas O parts diagram for this engine on the Atlas site, it also appears that the front motor can be removed from the front truck assembly and still remain operational. Research also showed that parts are available to convert the three rail swinging pilots to two rail fixed pilots.

 

Chris, thanks for posing your question on the forum and providing me the impetus to investigate further.

Somebody sold me several Red Caboose kits at a reasonable price years ago, so I have been turning them into various B&M engines.  My GP18 is 1750, with the Bicentennial Minuteman on the nose.  The dynamic brake is modeled as removed, with a plate welded over the opening.  What I have used to power it are the power trucks and reversing unit from a K-Line MP 15, which I attached to a thick piece of brass stock.  This doesn't look as bad as you might think, and it makes for a great puller.  The MP 15s used to be pretty inexpensive.

 

I used a Lionel short hood that I had hanging around.  Scale coupler and railings on the front only.

 

Bruce, could we see some pics?

 

Chris

First attempt at pictures didn't work.  I'll try again.

 

These show the K-line trucks mounted to a spine of thick brass strip.  I put a couple of wood pieces inside the Red Caboose body so I could screw the body and chassis together.  Electric Railroad sound, reversing unit from K-Line MP-15.  The sideframes are not nearly as nice as Atlas sideframes (though the bearings are correct for this prototype), but as I said, the dual motors and traction tires make it a good puller.  Was going to add weight but found I didn't have to.

The 1-piece front window is just cut out of styrene.  Many roads replaced it with a divided window, but not B&M.  P&D radiator grills, Precision Scale brass railings.  I leave the regular steps and coupler on the back to be compatible with the rest of my equipment.

 

BRUCE

 

BRUCE, ABSOLUTELY FANTASTIC!

 

Chris

Chris,

 

Here are some progress shots showing the body comparisons between the Atlas and RC. They are exactly the same size. You will see that the Atlas shell has body mount posts and also mountings for the roof antenna and front/rear lighting pc boards & LED's. Underneath the cab there are cut outs for the chassis switches. The next series of photos show the trial fittings onto the Atlas chassis that now has had the front motor removed. Engine runs fine with just the rear motor and has retained the cruise function. The engine has suffered some loss of pulling power from the front engine removal. The original front headlight board will now be placed in the new headlight pod in the cab. You will see that I have since decided to use the original Atlas long rear hood and only use the RC modified cab and chop nose. By do this, I have retained some body mountings as well as antenna, rear lighting and smoke stack fixtures. It all mates up very nicely. I will have to now modify the fireman's side tool box/steps by shortening the front section. I have decided to add Atlas 2 rail fixed pilots and handrails also but for now, this project will go on the back burner. It only got to this point due to your inquiry. Thanks for getting me to figure things out.

 

Al,

 

Looks great!!!!  Its almost alive!

UPDATE.

 

Finally able to attend a few train shows over last few weeks.  Found a P&D hobbies winterize hatch and a Lionel GP20 body for a nose donor.  Just need to a donor Atlas GP9 chassis.  Thanks to Bruce & Al for ideas and direction, I do appreciate it.

Here are a few picks of the body mock-up.  Slowwwwww!!!!! Ha-Ha!

 

 

I used the same Brass Strip idea for my GP9B unit with a red caboose body. Works great!

I almost forgot... the NYS&W had GP18s.  And they were pretty.

 

 

I say "were", because they're gone now.

Great work!  Unfortunately, a project like this is beyond my skill level.  The GP18 was owned by numerous Class 1 RRs including the B&O, IC, CNW, Lehigh Valley, MoPac, N&W, and not least, the B&M.  It's on my wish list for MTH or Lionel to produce, but I am not optimistic that I will ever see it.

 

Please continue to share your progress photos, thanks!

Jim, I have never kitbashed or built anything.  Only models I built were revell or snaptogether.  They usually were a gob of goo of plastic and ca glue.  Nothing to be proud of.  This is unchartered territory, and if this comes out you can do it.  The rest of my layout track and scenery/structures is patience and learning from others.  Will see it may go down in a flaming ball of fire.  (AHHHHH!). Just got to try with some vision and inspiration.

Chris

Looks good Chris.

I think the Lionel GP20 nose is a good starting point.  It's a little longer than a MTH GP20 nose.  If you end up with extra high short hoods please let me know.  I wrote to you once before about wanting to make a high nose GP20.  The Western Pacific and Great Northern both had high hood GP20s.

Bruce

WP,

 

Will do.  I pretty sure I will have that for you.  The major obstacle is finding a Atlas donor chassis.  Atlas is not making GP9 as of now, ebay is extremely high.  Bruce and Al's projects are on the mark.  You can call me after the holidays for what you might need.  cell is in my profile.  Enjoy your holidays!

 

Chris

Chris,

 

How did you make out... after a long time thinking about this, I decided to make my own GP20.

 

Build Your Own GP20

 

How is the Lionel nose?  Looks better on your model than normal pictures.

 

Thanks,

Mario

 

PS - I've been using the Tamiya white body filler as needed for the nose work.