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I ran my K-line F-7 For the second time this mourning , started ok , sounded ok. I ran it forward it went a few inches made a loud pop, I smelled smoke . Took the cab off the engine saw some black transistor parts scattered about. Found one of the mosfets had left the board. This is an ERR cruise lite board . I only ran it about 10 mins. or so after install this past Wednesday.  What could have caused this failure? and would it be worth fixing? I don't think it was caused by to much current draw, both motors running together drew only 20 milliamps at 12 volts  no load and around 2.5 amps both motors stalled. Thats why I  went with  the cruise lite board . This is my first experience with this module , I have done 6 other upgrades, 2 ac commanders and 4 cruise commanders all of these are still running fine.  Maybe just my bad luck.  Would welcome all input , thanks Judd.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Both motors wired in parallel measure 7 ohms, that should be less than 2 amps at 12v. I hadn't installed any or other options. That was my plan for this mourning. I thought I give it a spin around the layout and just turned the throttle a bit, it moved forward a bit popped and stopped, railsounds didn't quit. I killed the power, removed the shell and found a mosfet had blown apart found no other shorts the other 3 tested good. I tested the current draw of the motors found it the same as before. These motors are horizontal between the wheels and have no fly wheels. Question is the board repairable or is it toast?

 

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It does run in reverse.  radio board and sound module are all good. I did find a small strand of copper wire on the board that most likely caused the short . Never pays to hurry, The fet is a surface mount device,and I no longer have the proper equipment to remove it.  I wonder if ERR would sell the the board by itself.

Judd posted:

...Question is the board repairable or is it toast?

I'd think the motor drive circuit consists of 2 pairs of FETs (4 total, 2 N-channel, 2 P-channel) in a classic H-bridge configuration.  That's probably why all 4 aren't the same.  If it still works in reverse, there's a reasonable chance simply replacing the $1 FR5305 will bring it back to life.  Working with tiny SMD parts can frustrating...

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