Buffing out scuffs from postwar plastic?

I am looking forward to reading others opinions.

I have tried a product call Novus to polish out scratches.

Sometimes the results are great, other times, I've felt the polished areas were too shiney.

 

http://www.pbresource.com/cleaner.html

I want to try what C.W. suggested, but I have also had good luck with Griots Garage products - as the name implies these are car detailing products.  I have used the quick detail spray, as well as their vinyl / plastic dressing with good results to clean and remove light surface imperfections.  This is not the cheap auto store stuff that makes everything look greasy.  When I was involved in show car judging, this is what folks in the know used.  The detail spray also works well on appliances and around the house generally to the point where my wife insists we order the stuff for her use too.  You apply it, and then wipe it odd with a microfiber towel for a nice result.  HTH, good luck.

You may try using 1000- 1500 grit wet/dry sand paper- wet only, then use Novus plastic polish.

Rob

3M™ Wetordry™ Polishing Papers should work.  They are also packaged by Zona tools. 

 

3M™ Wetordry™ Polishing Papers easily repair and remove scratches on substrates like plastic, fiberglass and soft metals. Ideal for final polish and acrylic finishing of highly contoured surfaces.

 

I just thought I'd post a follow up. I went with oldrob's suggestion and found the Novus polish and 1500 grit sand paper at the LHS. I wish I had taken before, during, and after pictures! At first I was scared by the scuffs that the sandpaper had left, but the polish really cleaned it all up. Thanks so much to all who replied to this. I'm so happy with the results.

 

I seem to have an issue with posting pics, but here's the end result. The second pic may only look like a close up of the roof, but if you look reeeeeally close you can see just about the only trace of the old dings in the plastic.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/92095601@N08/9569616728/

 

Sam

This is truly a "post" post reply. I know the work is complete, but I thought thiss may be of help in the future.  I have used Armor All with success on all things plastic and glass for bringing back their luster.

DO NOT use Armor All as many have suggested.

Even the new formula will remove paint and leave it on the cloth you use to clean the train with.

Armor All removed red paint from my Vintage Post War Texas Special.

The soft cloth I used had "Red" on it.

 

From the Armor All website:

Attention

Not for use on floors, vehicle controls (pedals, grips, steering wheels), bench or cycle seats, cycle tires, brake drums and other surfaces where slipperiness may be hazardous. Do not use on or near clear plastic surfaces, glass (may cause smearing), fabric, woven materials or paint.

If you have any doubts about a specific surface, it's always wise to test an inconspicuous area first.

CW

 

Which NOVUS product did you use?  I see there are a few different types.

 

Thanks,

Ed

CW points out the crux of the problem. Its easy enough to remove the scratches using various sandpapers from coarse to fine then polish, but to match the sheen is very difficult. Usually you end up with a surface that is too shiny.

On rub marks I have good luck with metal polishes. Mothers Mag wheel polish is fairly aggressive but will leave a polished surface. If its then too shiny you could spray with something like Floquil Glaze or mix your own finish with Glaze, Flat, and/or Gloss to match the original sheen.

 

Pete

 

quote:

Which NOVUS product did you use?  I see there are a few different types.

 

I purchased a starter kit from Pinball Resource.

It comes with bottles of #1, #2, and #3 polish.

From the Pinball Resource site:

quote:

Novus #1 is made to clean, protect, and shines all type of plastic. This is great for cleaning your plastic pinball parts without scratching

Novus #2 is made to remove fine scratches, haziness, and abrasions from plastic and other surfaces and restore their original appearance. This can be used on Diamond Plate and Mylar playfields before waxing.

Novus #3 is made to remove heavy scratches. It's a two step procedure, first use Novus #3 followed by Novus#2.This can be used on Diamond Plate and Mylar playfields before waxing.

 

I use the #2 and #3 on a clean piece of cloth cut from old sweatpants (washed with NO fabric softener).
As I wrote above, sometimes the results are outstanding, other times, the polished area is noticeably more shiny than the surrounding area. Details like ribs and rivets prevent doing the entire shell.

 

If you try Novus, remember to shake the bottle!

Denim (aka blue jeans) and real leather key fobs (if you can find one) are good final buffing materials.  I've done "final" polish of sanded areas on plastic models using my blue jeans with my upper thigh as "backing".

I have used "Pledge" to remove slight surface discoloration in plastic. It does not always work but sometimes it removes them completely. Don

Meguiars Mirror Glaze products Used both Mirror Glaze and Novus when making museum quality acrylic display cases. Crest toothpaste also works as a fine rubbing compound on contours instead of wet sanding which is best for flat or smooth surfaces. Try these on a test piece first. Soft cotton rag is best.