Butane Soldering Torch

Hi Bobby,  

I think the prep work is important for soldering wire to track.  You are a digital subscriber so you should download the Soldering made easy article by Jim Barrett.  He suggests that  "If there is any coating on the rail, such as the black
oxidized surface on many manufacturers’ middle rail, buff the spot to
be soldered to expose clean metal and then tin the exposed bare metal."

I solder track of all types (except stainless) with either the Weller 100/140W gun or a 70W Weller iron, plenty of heat to do the job.

I tried the Weller 100/140 Watt gun, and it does not produce enough heat to solder wire to a solid rail.

Bobby Ogage posted:

I tried the Weller 100/140 Watt gun, and it does not produce enough heat to solder wire to a solid rail.

Then you must be doing something wrong. I have used an "American Beauty" 60W "pencil tip" soldering iron (which I've had for more than 40 years) ever since my HO modeling days, and it works beautifully for soldering on Atlas O solid nickel silver rails. The key is, the rails MUST be extra clean, thus I use an older model Dremel with a small, sharp point rotary file to "clean" the spot to be soldered. Using that method, I have also soldered every single track joint together, on the whole layout! I simply use a small razor saw to cut rail gaps where required.

The 60W "American Beauty" soldering iron has done EVERYTHING I've ever needed to be soldered.

If butane is your preference then I suggest the Ronson TechTorch with auto start, model 8008 by Zippo Manufacturing Company as a relatively inexpensive way to delve into butane soldering with up to 2400 degrees F (1300 degrees C) pinpoint heating.

Bobby Ogage posted:

I tried the Weller 100/140 Watt gun, and it does not produce enough heat to solder wire to a solid rail.

Au Contraire, I've soldered many Atlas tracks with the 100/140 gun, and it has more than enough heat to do the job quickly and efficiently.

Bobby:

It would be wise to listen to Mr. GRJ and Mr. Hot Water; the Weller units should work just fine for O rails.  I also have used Weller products for years, and can report no problem soldering rails for HO or O.  The 70w unit should be fine, though I may break out the 100w if I am a bit lazy.  I did struggle initially to solder the blackened middle rail of Atlas track, but only until I cleared the area of blackening using a Dremel and a small stone bit.  I followed that up with a quick wipe down with isopropyl, and I have never had an issue.

Using butane for O gauge rails seems rather akin to eradicating houseflies with a flame thrower.  Even so, if the rail isn't adequately prepared for soldiering, I'm not sure even butane would work, though you would certainly melt or burn everything in close proximity to the rail in question.

  The guns are really my first choice for track just because you don't have any flame concerns of a torch. Gas irons tend to lack somewhat in tip size for big heat transfers.

  I'd have to agree something was amiss Bobby O.

  Cleaning the area via abrasive is needed at times; rosin flux alone isnt always enough. Solder poked to iron first to build a puddle between it and the piece to accelerate the heat transfer, then dragged off the tip to the piece. You may even quickly move the iron to draw solder to a certain area, it follows heat.

Looking clean doesn't mean a lot sometimes, and a stainless wire brush is usually best for cleaning as some abrasives dusts will actually foul a joint as well. (just wipe or clean the dust with a solvent if stuck with abrasive)

  The size of micro torch can vary. The ones on Weller gas pens is pretty small. Ideal for you have planned in comparison to something like this Craftsman (which actually has a good sized soldering attachment and enough flame to micro-braze with soft rod, but it's not my go to for gas)

Get a sheetmetal guard ready to catch flame beyond the pieces. That:s how the plumbers without induction tools manage in tight spaces. Along with water dampening and a fire extinguisher close by. 

I hope you are not trying to solder wires to rails with a flame without a soldering attachment for your torch. I know how to do it without burning the layout up but what a PITA.  I have a good small torch with a soldering iron attachment but always end up using my Weller gun when I run out of gas refills. So finally I came to the conclusion the gas soldering iron is great when no simpler solution is available.  I originally bought the gas torch/ soldering iron for use on boats when no AC was available and it truly is indispensable.  J

Refills! That's another thing. Some take cartridges, I always bought the ones refillable with standard bulk butane. Cheaper overall, and even a gas station or convenience store usally has some.

(Have I used the Weller torch? yes.  I've used the crafstman, and LP oxy too. I also have many years of experience doing similar work in tight spots  professionally. IT WILL TAKE MUCH CAUTION, EVEN WITH A SHIELD, I'M NOT SUGGESTING TO BUILD SKILL THIS WAY, KNOW YOUR LIMITS FIRST AND FOREMOST. GUN/IRONS ARE BEST & SAFER.)

I suspect I will never understand why someone would prefer a flaming soldering iron to a simple electrically powered one.  I can see it where there is no power, but when I'm working at home, firing up a torch to solder track never enters my mind!