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Yes.

 

TMCC can be installed in anything - maybe even your blender (if you step down that

110-volt input!)

 

A plastic-bodied (most diesels, many electrics)/plastic coal load loco makes it easier, as there is no antenna wrestling involved (voice of experience).

 

See Modern Toy Train Parts website; Bill installs and/or sells you the kit to do it. I've

done many of them.

 

 

At the time, (several years ago) the CTO of Lionel and Mike Reagan both said it was extremely difficult to to put TMCC in them because of space constraints.

 

New boards have become available since then and the situation may be different now.

Take a look inside your Atlas O AEM 7 and you will see that space inside these "toasters" is extremely tight.  That's why I did not attempt do it when I looked into putting TMCC in mine a few years ago.

 

Night be worth another look though.

 

Hope this acts as a thought starter.

 

Ed Boyle

Eliot,

 

I installed an ERR Co. Cruise Commander. It's a tight fit, as Ed said, because of the single, big, horizontally-mounted motor. I had to do lots of interior trimming IIRC.

 

Hardest part was wiring all the bulbs, some of which are meant to be always on, others directionally-controlled. I finally gave up and wired most for constant on.

 

Jim

Last edited by Jim Policastro

Unfortunately, I no longer own the engine. I seem to remember suspending the board above the horizontal motor and flywheel drive shaft. I made a long platform from styrene sheet running the length of the engine, supported at the two ends by blocks of styrene I attached to the frame. The board and wiring sat on this platform, keeping everything out of the mechanism.

 

Jim

 

The original Dalle boards are mounted about the large Pitmann dual flywheel horizontal motor.  The model also has front and rear cabs that are full cabs and detailed.  There is almost no free space in that engine.  It does run well and there is a "hybrid" mode that uses TMCC and the Locomatic controller.  Not full TMCC.

What would make a DCS proto2 conversion all the more difficult is the fact that the horizontal motor has dual flywheels unlike those of a typical vertical can motor chassis. Installing the flywheel tape plus tach reader plus the board would be quite a challenge.

 

Thinking more about my conversion, I'm not sure now if it was an ERR Co board I used or an old Train America Studios 8 amp motor driver board (It was definitely not EOB!!!).

 

Those nicely detailed cabs were one casualty of the conversion, as they were removed to make room for the styrene mounting pads I made.

 

Jim

 

 

 

Many thanks to ll of you for your replies.

Special thanks to Chuck, Ron, Dr. Policastro and Professor Boyle.

BTW: I love the AEM-7's so much that I did buy an MTH Proto 2.0 issue several years ago. I had to sell that loco as it was not a very good puller at all. It struggled on my 2.2% grade with five Atlas O Horizon Amtrak cars. I am hopeful I can convert my Atlas O AEM-7 to command but, as Jim said, I am wary of the conversion owing to lack of space. Perhaps I can get someone (Jon Zahornacky are you listening) to allow me to hire them to do it.

 

BTW x 2: I just purchased an MTH Proto 3.0 Virginian FM and the sounds are much improved over previous MTH diesels.

 

Last edited by Scrapiron Scher

You could always put the electronics and the speaker in the baggage car and run a tether to the locomotive with the motor wires. You could either add another wire for the headlight, or just run it off track voltage since it will be a constant 18v in TMCC anyway. I'm going to be facing the same situation one of these days, whenever I get around to painting and putting together the undecorated AEM-7 I picked up at York when Trainworld was blowing them out. 

I got mine in that same Trainworld blowout. The drive is very similar to that in the very smooth running Atlas diesel switchers. It is geared to run slightly faster but still as smooth. At the time I felt it was worth the extra effort to add it to the command fleet.

 

That same horizontal drive was also used in the Atlas MP15.

 

Too bad that the lack of space for electronics with that type of drive prevented it from being more widely used.

 

Jim

You MIGHT, and I emphasize might, be able to install the Cruise commander inverted with the heat sink base on the inside of the roof dynamic brake blister.  It looks like that should scale out to 1/2" which leaves you with about 3/4" of heat sink fins to clear above the motor.  The wiring harness is going to be a mess but probably no worse than the existing mess.  RS Commander can go over one of the "tower" drive units and I am guessing the existing speaker in what should be the air tanks/batter box under the frame should still work assuming the impedance is a match.

Before you go to far, you need to look at the amp draw of that Pittman motor.  The Atlas SW horizontal drives seem to draw a bit more than the normal (2) can vertical China Drive.  Be sure the ERR drive can handle the motor load.  That being said, go for it.  The no longer available ERR drive I installed in my Rich Yoder GE 44 tonner, fit, but it had no heat sinks, which limits it.  Heat sinks built into the drive should be able to dissipate the heat to the metal structure, IMO.  

It appears that an ERR drive is available in the currently advertised Atlas SW models 2014 catalog.  It would be interesting to know if it has been used previous to this offering in either the SW's or the MP15's, and how well it works.   

Last edited by Mike CT

Cruise commander can handle up to 8 amps.  It's a matter of space.

 

This is what I'm trying to do to get an older RS 2.5 board into a Williams EP-5.  I had a left over 2.5 board and I was able to get sound chips for electric locomotive.  A newer RS Commander would fit fine but I had the 2.5 board so I'm trying to make use of it.  There isn't room for the DC Commander AND the 2.5 board on the frame so I'm trying to install it on the roof of the shell.  The EP-5 has a similar roof box for ventilation of a resistance grid.

I glued a couple of pieces of sheet styrene to "trap" the mounting plate.  The RS-board and "bracket" are to the left.

bracket inserted under the styrene "slides"

board in place.


You might be able to do something like this with the Cruise commander board.  I don't know if there is enough clearance above the motor to accommodate the board plus whatever you use to mount the board to the roof.

Last edited by chuck
Originally Posted by Scrapiron Scher:

Yeow !

It is amazing how much you fellows know about all of this.

I think if I pass this loco among you, the "team" can get this done.

Like "Mission Impossible."

Who wants the first crack at it?

 

Scrapiron The Hopeful

Jim, I am willing to try this.  For TMCC you only want drive, no sounds?  If PS-2 could be installed would that be acceptable.  E-mail is in my profile.  G

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