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 Over the past few years I have acquired a few 200 series cars, and yesterday I tried connecting them to My 400e with Vanderbuilt tender. They willl not work. After connecting them the connection was so tight, it would cause the PS3 loco would derail. This is also after slightly bending the coupler on the tender.

 

I then hooked up a few 500 series cars, and they were fine. I am wondering if I am only going to be able to run my 200 series cars with my 408E??

 

JoeG

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JoeG,

   In order to run the 200 series Cars with the 400E you must pick up an old type Lionel extender/transition coupler, using the extender coupler gives you almost 3/4" between the engine and the rolling stock, and they will even travel thru 042 curves.  These old Lionel extender couplers, are becoming more hard to find as time goes along.  Sorry I do not remember the Lionel numbers on the old extender/transition couplers.  There was a thread about these quite a while back, do a search you might still be able to find them.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad

Pine Creek Railroad is correct, and the part number is TT-100 or TT-162.  The TT-100 is straight, the TT-162 has a drop on one end, when the couplers are at different heights.  Brasseur price is $1.25 each, George Tebolt at $1.00.  Didn't find any from Toy Train Tender, and didn't check other suppliers.  They are called Coupler Adapters.

CW,

   There is also another adapter coupler that allows Tin Plate Latch couplers to adapt to the Tin Plate Box couplers, even at different heights, but I can not remember the number of it, this particular adapter coupler shown in the post, is for adapting modern couplers to Tin Plate Box couplers.  It is not the older Tin Plate Latch to Box coupler adapter I was posting about.

PCRR/Dave

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
Some years ago I saw, inspected and possibly photographed, a Lionel 517 caboose with box couplers, owned by Cole G. He believed that it was one of several different freight cars that were engineering samples from the Lionel factory near the end the the Standard gauge production.
 
Ron M
 
Originally Posted by Trainlover160:

Thanks for all the great info. Does anyone have any pics on this adapter. I am also confused as standard gauge did not have the box automatic couplers. That was only in o-gauge I thought.

 

Thanks RonM, I had not seen the previous posts.

 

JoeG

 

JoeG,

   Some old O gauge Tin Plate also has the Latch couplers, depending on which train sets you purchased, unfortunately I do not have a picture for you of the old transition coupler.

Like I indicated before not the easiest things to get your hand on today either, you may have to make your own using parts from a Latch Coupler.  My Father would have them made up at the Union Switch & Signal for us when we were kids.  Sense I liked the black Box Auto Couplers much better, we have no manual Latch type O gauge Tin Plate any more, here on the Pine Creek Railroad.  Further Lionel made a 2600 series transition Box Car that has a Tin Plate Auto Box Coupler on one end of the Box Car, and a modern Post War Auto Coupler on the other end of the box car, to join Tin Plate & Post War rolling stock. You can actually run manual Tin Plate Latch couplers connected to the Tin Plate Auto Box Couplers, insert the transition Box Car and pull the full metal Lionel post War logging or Passenger Cars behind your 400E.  A little boys dream come true!  Tin Plate Trains the greatest stuff on Rails.

PCRR/Dave

 

Last edited by Pine Creek Railroad
What no one has addressed is the reason for the disparity.
 
The diameter of the wheels on the 200-series (P/N 319T-15), 500-series (P/N 9T-17) and the 400-series (418T-1) units. Large, small and middle.
 
Now, if there was this large difference, how did Lionel overcome this discrepancy, since they cataloged the 400E with 200-series freight cars from 1931 to 1939? I believe that there was enough vertical 'slop' in the coupler mountings to negate the problem.
 
Ron M
 
Originally Posted by Trainlover160:

 

 Over the past few years I have acquired a few 200 series cars, and yesterday I tried connecting them to My 400e with Vanderbuilt tender. They willl not work. After connecting them the connection was so tight, it would cause the PS3 loco would derail. This is also after slightly bending the coupler on the tender.

 

I then hooked up a few 500 series cars, and they were fine. I am wondering if I am only going to be able to run my 200 series cars with my 408E??

 

JoeG

 




quote:
None of mine have enough slop to connect and make them work. also am still a little confused regarding the adapter mentioned in the above posts. Why would this resolve to a knuckle coupler my issues when this is for connect a latch coupler




 

The TT-100 / TS-162 as designed will not help to couple different height latch couplers together. Dave wrote that another adaptor is available. I am not familiar with it.

The only locos that Lionel cataloged with 200-series freight cars were the 380/380E, 402/402E, 408E, 390 w/390X tender and the 400E. The 10/10E and the 318/318E couplers are too low to properly match with the 200-series freight cars.
 
Ron M
 
 
Originally Posted by William 1:
Easiest fix.  Get a compatible set of passenger cars to trail your 400.  Don't modify couplers to pull 200s.  Get a cool electric, old school #10 or 318 to pull your 200s.  Two job opportunities.  Pretty easy to do.  You deserve to go shopping.  It's Christmas for Heaven's sake.

 

I spoke with Larry at Brassuer Trains. He measusred his couplers and they were 1.25 inches off of the table(not the track), and stated the hieght matched perfectly from his 400E tender to his 200 series car. Therefore, Ipurchase 6 of his part number CP-21. I do not believe I will have any more issues and if I do I will straightne the shank, and leave the original alone.

 

JoeG

Last edited by Trainlover160

I just purchased two MTH 400e engines to pull my 200 series freights.  One had lots of slop in the coupler, and the other had none.  The difference was that the screw holding the coupler had been loosened a lot on the one with slop.  Once I had the slop, the coupler mated fine.  I did not need to bend the coupler.  I did use a zip tie to keep the coupler closed (I really hate these couplers but love the trains). 

I added a front coupler to one of the engines for double heading.  This is problematic on 48" curves.  An extender did not help.  The engine overhang was too great.  I am buying 72" curves to solve this.  

Great pics George S,

We I received the couplers from Brassuer Trains. They were still too low. So I took one of them and wrapped it in electrical tape, and straightened in my vice. It took a few tries due to the two bends, but was able to completely straighten.I then removed the screw on the tender and put this one on, and tightened.

I put the tender back on the track, and to 200 series cars mate right up to the tender now. Therefore, I will just put the oriignal coupler back on when it is needed to run other stock.

 

JoeG

I had an extra coupler and tried straightening it to see how it works.  It mates fine, but I am not sure it is any better than using the 'slop' method.

However, I learned that I had been coupling these latch couplers wrong for years and that is why I have been using rubber bands and zip ties.  I finally put my glasses on and got my nose down close with good lighting.  These things don't come with instructions, but it is clear there is a wrong way to couple the latch couplers.  See the pictures and captions below.

Correct way with hooks inserted between hook and pin of opposite coupler.

IMG_0518[1]

Wrong way with hooks outside of each other.

IMG_0519[1]

Here's how the couplers come undone on a curve when mated the wrong way.

IMG_0520[1]

It also helps to have working springs to keep the latches closed, but I believe the smaller 500 series cars did not have springs on the couplers originally.  (I could be mistaken on this.)

George

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  • IMG_0518[1]
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  • IMG_0520[1]

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