Changing Numbers on Atlas 4750 Covered Hoppers

If you're using a dry transfer, you shouldn't use the Microscale chemicals, as they are intended for water-slide decals only.  To get the best results that you're wanting, you may want to consider painting a "patch-type" block where the car numbers go, then replace all of them.  Unless you're somewhat seasoned at doing this it is beyond "tough" to do correctly.  Just my opinion.  I would stick with decals.  

I would agree with Jeff on the decals. If you decide to use dry transfers instead, try using the other end of the #2 pencil without a sharp tip for burnishing. I would practice on something else first. 

The only reason for using the transfers,is that they're very close to the Atlas number in size & the main reason is I can't find any O scale decals. I like to work with the transfers over conventional decals,as they're easily removable.

What I have is no work of art,but believe I can improve with practice.

I greatly appreciate you gentlemen's advice,don't take me wrong.

Thanks again,

Al Hummel

Alan Hummel posted:

I left a tiny 1/2 of the original Atlas car number to use as a guide for positioning for the new number,a dry transfer,that was going to go over it. I don't have a burnisher,so I used a sharp end of a "skewer." Didn't work REAL WELL,& I had to use 2 numbers as part of the 1st number didn't transfer real well.

Ok, what brand of dry transfers were these and what is the actual surface like - dry transfers do not go on well on a glossy surface. 

You don't need a "burnisher" - the end of a #2 pencil will work fine for the transfer action.

I have Microset or microsol,not sure which. How do I apply this,it has a brush on it,to get this dry transfer to settle well? Or should I use something else?

None of the above and again it's dependent on the brand of dry transfers - older Clover House and other brands tend to just behave nicely with an over-spray of Dull Coat.  The newer printer ones from Clover House don't play well with Dull Coat and I have been using Rustoleum Matte finish - seems to be compatible.

This is probably the easiest way to do what you are trying to accomplish as you can choose and position individual numbers w/o leaving a decal film.

But, just as in all exercises, even the simplest of tasks will require some practice.

MWB,

Woodland Scenics Decals. These are just blocks of numbers & Letters of different sizes,I believe Gothic.

Al Hummel

Those usually behave if they are not really old and been in someone's basement for a decade or 2.

Sometimes the problem is the surface just needs to be cleaned and not glossy,

MWB,

Sorry,forgot to mention the surface condition,was between honey do jobs on 91+ degree day with high humidity.

I erase the number & try to use a bit of water,(spit),to clean, then dry. The paint is smooth & seems unaffected.

The directions mention using a flat spray-what would they mean? I've never in my 30+ years in HO had any REAL experience with decals.

For best effect,I should remove ALL numbers as removing the 1 number,leaves the new number darker than the rest. In my case the Atlas car # is 250778,so changing 1 number,the "0" to a "9" gives me a car number in a whole new series so thought I'd give it a try. Now I have car # 259778 a good CSX 4750 number. Changing the "5" out  of an Atlas car numbered 250778 & replacing it with a "6" gives me a car in the 259000-260999 series-260778.

Live & learn-I hope.

Thank you for the help.

Al Hummel

Al, if you are applying decals they should be applied on a hi gloss surface and sprayed with whatever finish you want. Flat, semi- gloss, gloss, etc.  The purpose of the hi gloss finish is to help eliminate the decal film from being seen after the final finish is applied.   

Alan Hummel posted:

MWB,

Sorry,forgot to mention the surface condition,was between honey do jobs on 91+ degree day with high humidity.

Maybe doing this inside would be better for you and the lettering project?

I erase the number & try to use a bit of water,(spit),to clean, then dry. The paint is smooth & seems unaffected.

Might be adequate.......

The directions mention using a flat spray-what would they mean? I've never in my 30+ years in HO had any REAL experience with decals.

Flat usually equates to Dull Coat for most folks - dry transfers perform better on a flat surface.  Really?  I have a very hard time even comprehending that lack of experience in any scale over that long, but that's decals and you're using dry transfers, right?  They are not equivalent.

For best effect,I should remove ALL numbers as removing the 1 number,leaves the new number darker than the rest.

Probably so.

If you go to Harbor freight Tools , get a mini sandblaster air brush  like $20 , air compressor like $60 , use baking soda , and with a little practice you can remove the numbers and not remove the paint , it will leave the paint in the area dull but some gloss coat then numbers added then dullcoat . Or if using dry transfer just apply and then dullcoat , I do this when repainting cars and locos much easier than chemicals or soaking .

Buy an airbrush while there  $22 and now you can change numbers and even paint schemes leaving original paint intact for the base coat .

All these things really need to be apart of model railroading , will pay for themselves many times over .

SCRATCHBUILDER1-48,

Thank you for the advise.

The funny thing here is,years ago around the 1980 time period,when HO was still limited & "everything" wasn't available,Athearn & MDC were still the big players in HO,I bought a Badger airbrush,cord & aircompressor. never used it 1 time!

You mentioned decorating cars after stripping the present paint scheme-I had the same thought last evening. Instead of waiting & possibly NEVER getting models in O Scale I want,why not strip down a CSX 4750 & make it a Family Lines System 4750 as the CSX paint & the Family Lines System paint are the same on the 4750 cvd hoppers. When CSX was formed the brass set down & decided which paint schemes from each System,Chessie & Seaboard Systems,would be used on what types of cars & the Beige or tan color was used on covered hoppers.

Never having done this work in earnest,I have everything to learn & at my age my patience isn't good. But it is an interesting thought.

Where would I get Family Lines decals? Hi-Ball Graphics is I'm told a custom design company more into doing the work themselves than supplying the decals,but that's all I know.

At the time being,will Dull Coat make my dry transfer look like it was applied at the same time as the Atlas numbers as now the dry transfer has that,"fresh out of shop" color,making it look out of place?

Thank you,

Al Hummel