Now that Lionel has suggested them, I'm wondering if folks with lots of experience are in agreement. Also, are there other candidates besides Goo-Gone?
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Having sold cleaning compounds and industrial chemicals, I don't understand the attraction of citrus-based cleaners. Citrus juice is mildly acidic which isn't a good degreaser. If they neutralize it then all you get is the smell. I tried Goo-Gone once and it leaves the track so slippery the trains can't run. They say you have to wipe the track clean-I tried that too with very limited effect. For the price, I like 91% alcohol. I don't really pay any to what Lionel says.
I agree with Mr. Pastorius! The ONLY two track cleaning solutions that I use are: 1) Denatured Alcohol, or 2) Lacquer Thinner. Both really clean the rails and neither leave a film on the rails. I wouldn't even allow that Goo-Gone crap in our house!
I haven't used it on tracks as of yet. But Big E Orange is a great degreaser, but beware it is VERY FLAMABLE to an open flame. I don't believe it states that on the bottle. I would have to go buy another bottle and see.
I don't have as many years of experience of others, but I have used Goo gone with great success. I've also found, that the more I run my trains, the less i need to clean the rails.
That is interesting because I use tubular track, even after wiping it off the engine just spun its wheels on level track. I finally had to clean the rails with CRC's Lectro-motive cleaner. A chlorinated solvent that I use on the locos. Too expensive for track cleaning.
I use Fastrack, the only engine I've ever had wheel slippage with is my TMCC track mobile, but that engine has no traction tires and I was pulling too many cars around an O-36 turn. I gave the goo gone a try on a whim (before Lionel said anything) and really like how clean my rails were and of course the smell is a bonus. I am only one person but I really like my results.
just some other details - my layout is 4 feet by 8 feet and all O36. Most of my fleet are modern legacy engines. I typically pull about 10 or more cars. Often chasing my tail on such a small layout - but that is what I have to work with.
I have previously used goo gone to clean my 0-31 lionel tube track as well - I didn't have that loop setup recently but had no slippage on that track either.
Very interesting the different results. I certainly would not use if I had the no traction problem!
I would NEVER use Goo Gone on the track. I've never had it breakdown traction tires or leave a film over the rails.
However, I started having a lot of issues with my layout both with DCS (when I used it) and even in conventional. I couldn't figure out what the heck was going on. I was using light amounts of Goo Gone to clean the Lionel tubular track. When I started taking track apart, and this track had been together for several years, I found all of the pins coated in slimy black goo, remnants of Goo Gone that had seeped into the track joints. The track could have been cleaned but it was much easier to buy new track. As a result, I refuse to ever use Goo Gone on the track again. On wheels and rollers it is OK but not on track!
There's nothing like a good light hydrocarbon to clean grease or heavy lubes. I have used rubbing alcohol put on a old washcloth for years. Never had a problem with slippage, residue, or forest fires. A light rubbing with a scotch brite pad works good also.
91% alcohol works great and is cheap. No reason to make the situation complicated.
Boy, it's here, again.
- Lionel's Mike R. recommends an occasional wiping with WD-40; I do that.
- mineral spirits will clean it nicely, as it's petroleum-based, but will not provide better electrical contact, as will WD-40.
- though I don't prefer the alcohol-solution (alcohol likes water), it does work (less well, in my opinion, but we're splitting hairs), and, to paraphrase NJCJOE, above, "why make it complicated"?
- avoid anything in the "Cleansers" aisle at the grocery store; layouts and kitchen floors have very little in common.
- track can only be so clean; if you are having problems and wiping your track with a clean rag produces negligible black, you have other issues.
- no matter what you use, it won't stay clean, so an occasional wipe with mineral spirits on a rag will keep it in fine shape.
But I would suggest if you 91% alcohol, you let the stuff dry first. I think the alcohol would not be good for traction tires.
After opening all garage doors, I use acetone, pour it on a white rag (T-Shirt) go around the track, get a clean rag wipe, again and the new rag is still clean, I have read of adverse reactions that acetone has on plastic but I have seen no bad effects on my Fastrack.
Brent
I use straight isopropyl alcohol to clean the track. If it's really stubborn I use Goof Off, just don't get it on anything plastic.
Jerry
91% dries pretty quick but, you are right, not good for traction tires. i use acetone on a few things but very flammable and I don't like to breathe those fumes. I first heard about this "citrus-based" cleaner thing as a better ecology friendly cleaner and using baking soda or soda ash. guess what ? they are used as fillers in cleaners sold on the market as is salt. I was amazed at the cleaning ability of 91% alcohol. For years I had tried to clean the fat and cooking grease from my white electric stove. tried everything but mnothing really good. Until I tried 91% !! Wiped it off- no problem. very inexpensive, too.
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D500,
The WD40 doesn't cause wheel slippage? I have heard about using WD40, but I assumed it would leave an oil residue on the rails. I believe I will give it a try.
The above is what I have been using for years. No Goo mess. I will not ever use Goo Gone. This product is non flammable and does not hurt plastic. You can buy it at auto parts stores, hardware stores, and Home Depot among a few. I use it in all my track cleaning cars. Removes the worst mess and dries in a few seconds. No residue.
WD-40 is an oil. Keep plenty of traction tires handy after they swell and fall off.
phil gresho posted:Now that Lionel has suggested them, I'm wondering if folks with lots of experience are in agreement. Also, are there other candidates besides Goo-Gone?
Several years ago Lee Willis ran experiments with Citrus based cleaners on his FasTrack. It didn't go well. He ended up replacing his rusted/corroded FasTrack with Atlas track. It also made a mess of his locomotive and rolling stock wheels. Alcohol works just fine. No sense in changing what works....
Mr Union Pacific posted:D500,
The WD40 doesn't cause wheel slippage? I have heard about using WD40, but I assumed it would leave an oil residue on the rails. I believe I will give it a try.
WD40 will DEFINITELY leave a film on your rails, and will most likely cause a degradation of signal strength with DCS.
Gilly is also correct. Alcohol also works good. Before using the product I use above, I used Brake Clean (non flammable) made by the same company. Key words being NON FLAMMABLE.
Listen to Hot Water. He knows what he is talking about.
Ok...thanks for that info, I will not even try the WD40. If there is even a remote chance of it messing with the DCS it won't come near my layout.
The local hobby shops in my area all stock, Model Power® Brand Track Cleaner, Non Toxic • Non Flammable for all scales. Use only a few drops on any track cleaning car, track stone or a soft shop rag. This is what works on my layout, plus it is good business to make as many purchases that we can from an OGR Sponsor or LHS. I am using item No. 14, this spring the new item number will be 0614. No aerosol spray smells or fumes. Good Luck.
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I would hesitate using any acetone, benzene, or toulene based products. They are highly flammable and have a fairly high octane rating, upwards of 140. They will however do the job and maybe more than you wanted.
I have used WD40 for years and have never had traction tire problems. The key is to spray it lightly on a cloth and to follow up with another clean dry cloth. Old tee shirts or cotton socks (fit over your hand nicely) work well. I go over the same section several times with the dry cloth until the cloth wipes clean without any black oily residue. After a few laps around the layout with any train, wipe again. I find that I have fewer signal issues after this cleaning method than with others.
I go with the alcohol
bob . C
I have. Used GooGone on my Atlas Track ( 50x40' Layout) for the last 12 years , and highly satisfied with it. I use 2 Track Cleaning Cars. The first car I saturate the PAD with the GooGone & second cars PAD picks up the solution . You have to change the PADS until you see no more RESIDUE !!!
91% isopropyl alcohol....cheap, effective, evaporates fast....done
Peter
91% when all the pros & cons are totaled up.
"I would hesitate using any acetone, benzene, or toulene based products" aside from the Flammability issue these are carcinogenic. I would not bring them home. I like the alcohol and Marty's CRC electro motive cleaner as it is useful for the track as well as many other repairs and clean up jobs.
Fredstrains posted:I have. Used GooGone on my Atlas Track ( 50x40' Layout) for the last 12 years , and highly satisfied with it. I use 2 Track Cleaning Cars. The first car I saturate the PAD with the GooGone & second cars PAD picks up the solution . You have to change the PADS until you see no more RESIDUE !!!
Do you have MTH DCS on your layout?
I've tried both 91% alcohol as well as Goo Gone.
Goo Gone lifted much more black residue from the rail tops. I have used it regularly on our track for the past few years with no issue. I just follow with a dry cloth to absorb as much of the Goo Gone as possible.
Remember the key words. NON FLAMMABLE. A small tip for post war guys regarding the CRC. With your AC motor turning, take the extended nozzle that comes with the can and spray the area of the brushes. You will jump for joy when the motor runs much faster and smoother. This happens in front of your eyes in about one second.
Another tip for MTH guys where the slave unit motors turn very slow. Get the slave motors turning (body off) and with the earlier mentioned nozzle, squirt into the motor opening at the brush area and you will be surprised how fast your motor speed is restored. Many a slave board has been sold and all the motors needed was what I just outlined.
PRR Mark posted:"I would hesitate using any acetone, benzene, or toulene based products" aside from the Flammability issue these are carcinogenic. I would not bring them home. I like the alcohol and Marty's CRC electro motive cleaner as it is useful for the track as well as many other repairs and clean up jobs.
Acetone is not a carcinogen; the latter 2, particularly benzene are recognized to be so. Benzene is effectively banned from general public use and access outside of chemistry and research labs and even in those most safety office will make you justify the need to have any at all; toluene is pretty readily available, although that's shrinking rapidly. Probably more critical to this discussion and use is the flammability of all with acetone being exceedingly so. Lastly, I wouldn't use any solvent w/o really good ventilation, which you probably don't have anywhere near what might be considered adequate for using solvents in your basement.
The alcohol is probably safest yet it's also not the best as a degreasing agent - moderately short chain alcohols are lousy solvents for oil and grease. The citrus cleaners vary - it all depends on what's really in them - one mentioned above happens to be greater than 90% limonene - that's a terpene that will dissolve oils and grease effectively; not acidic at all actually - citrus cleaners no not automatically equate to being citric acid based. The one solvent that's quite good for removing grease and oils is dichloromethane and it's also practically non-flammable (it's also Tenax-7 for gluing styrene is....), but again, no one hear probably has adequate ventilation to be using this on a rag wiping down track.
BTW, think about getting some good gloves.....that the solvents don't go through.....
Whatever you all use, think about how much you are breathing of it and maybe consider turning on a few exhaust fans.
Safety first.
Marty Fitzhenry posted:Safety first.
What a concept! 
I use Acetone with both doors open to my train room,not a basement and get great results.I am using tubular track with Ross Switches.
Mikey
Why close the doors 
Breath deep, the gathering gloom.
On my Fasttrack and RealTrax, I use Trader Joe's ... Next to Godliness Mandarin Orange dish soap and Q-Tips. It's got orange oil in it. It seems to clean better than the stuff I bought in an MTH track cleaning kit. So far no problems have been observed and the smoke stack hasn't blown any bubbles. Of course my layouts are on the small side and on the floor, so it's easy to clean from any angle.
Tomlinson Run Railroad
Mr UP mentioned WD 40 and lubrication. WD 40 is a water displacement liquid, not a lubricant. It was developed for the Air Force to help protect against rust by displacing water and replacing it with a thin liquid that doesn't evaporate.
