I have recently acquired a fairly rare O scale steam loco built in the 80s (I will gloat about it later). My question is what is the best method to restore the shine of the metal. It has some slight oxidation. Nothing serious like pitting.
I don’t want to use wire wheels or abrasive material to bring it back to “factory” freshness. I do plan on painting it later down the road. But for now it just looks cool the way it does.
Any suggestions? Thanks Bruk.
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Can you verify if has a clear coat? That was used to delay oxidation but doesn’t prevent it long term. Is so it would have to be removed first.
Pete
Have you tried something like Tarn-X. I have used it on item other than trains, some brass, with good results. You could test it on the underside first. I have removed the bodies on brass locos and simply washed the body in a tub of soapy water with a soft long bristle brush. Blow dry and let sit a day or two. That alone does a fairly good job.
Now a question for you. A while back you were painting a switcher loco and had what looked like a stencil that I can imagine you using with an airbrush to apply graphics. Where and how do you get those stencils ? j
Don't laugh. If there is no clearcoat, try Polident. Yes, the stuff for cleaning dentures. Probably best if you can remove the shell and let it soak for awhile. I told you not to laugh.
@John Sethian posted:Don't laugh. If there is no clearcoat, try Polident. Yes, the stuff for cleaning dentures. Probably best if you can remove the shell and let it soak for awhile. I told you not to laugh.
Interesting idea. Makes sense...
@Norton posted:Can you verify if has a clear coat? That was used to delay oxidation but doesn’t prevent it long term. Is so it would have to be removed first.
Pete
It appears that there is a clear coat on it. I took some acetone to the cab and it is “sticky”
I will have to give it a bath in some stripper. Any suggestions on that? Of course ill make sure any plastic is removed prior.
@JohnActon posted:Now a question for you. A while back you were painting a switcher loco and had what looked like a stencil that I can imagine you using with an airbrush to apply graphics. Where and how do you get those stencils ? j
I had a buddy from work cut them out on his vinyl cutter. He used a stencil material. I gave him the dimensions and font I wanted.
@Bruk posted:It appears that there is a clear coat on it. I took some acetone to the cab and it is “sticky”
I will have to give it a bath in some stripper. Any suggestions on that? Of course ill make sure any plastic is removed prior.
Lacquer thinner might be a better choice only because it doesn’t evaporate as quickly as acetone. I would use a container that fits the engine as close as possible and immerse it. Can’t get the good methylene chloride strippers anymore. They would have that coating off in minutes.
Pete
I have some 1980s PSC passenger cars with clearcoat. They must have used epoxy; nothing cuts it. And it tarnishes underneath!
If you do get it stripped, Barkeepers Friend will remove tarnish quickly. It is found near the Bab-O in the supermarket.
There is a polish in paste form called Met-All for brass and copper. There are no abrasives and it is able to be worked into tight areas with cotton tipped applicators Pretty easy to use, a little can go a long way, and cleans up well. There is a sister product for stainless, silver and aluminum that I've used on jewelry, even platinum.
Pictures would of the piece would be fun to see!
@bob2 posted:If you do get it stripped, Barkeepers Friend will remove tarnish quickly. It is found near the Bab-O in the supermarket.
I took this advice and used it on a brass HO scale RSC3; it worked great and was quick and easy!
Mark in Oregon
@Norton posted:Lacquer thinner might be a better choice only because it doesn’t evaporate as quickly as acetone. I would use a container that fits the engine as close as possible and immerse it. Can’t get the good methylene chloride strippers anymore. They would have that coating off in minutes.
Pete
Pete, Bruk, I bought a spray can of "Aircraft Stripper" at Auto zone last October and it still had Methylene Chloride in it. Though if lacquer thinner or acetone will take it off with a good soaking that's how I would remove it. Strippers tend to leave a residue that you need lacquer thinner or acetone thinner to remove. I made a long skinny stripping tray from steel gutter flashing years ago. Easy to make any length you need. I formed it around a 2 X 4 and soldered ends on it. Also useful for soaking and cleaning auto parts. j
There may be some out of the way old time auto or hardware stores that still have stripper with methylene chloride in it. I think stores could sell remaining stock even after it was banned for consumer use. Same with MEK.
Pete
@Norton posted:There may be some out of the way old time auto or hardware stores that still have stripper with methylene chloride in it. I think stores could sell remaining stock even after it was banned for consumer use. Same with MEK.
Pete
Funny thing is I work in the airplane building industry where I use these items often....But I’m not going to risk that path.
No one has mentioned the old military staple, Brasso, the most famous canned brass cleaner in the world. It works with rubbing on and off with an old rag.
It "cleans and protects" as it says on the can so a follow up with lacquer is needed before painting.
Charlie
The old military staple - Brasso - has changed. It no longer cleans or polishes very well, and smells funny. Boo!
I think a vinegar bath removes tarnish. I just use the Barkeepers - light phosphoric acid, I think. Seems benign.
@Bruk posted:I have recently acquired a fairly rare O scale steam loco built in the 80s (I will gloat about it later). My question is what is the best method to restore the shine of the metal. It has some slight oxidation. Nothing serious like pitting.
I don’t want to use wire wheels or abrasive material to bring it back to “factory” freshness. I do plan on painting it later down the road. But for now it just looks cool the way it does.
Any suggestions? Thanks Bruk.
I am not sure how shiny you would like it to be but, if you want it to glow l would recommend a product called Simichrome. It is available at motorcycle shops and also at the auction sight. It is easy to work with and produces a great shine.
Ray
@Rayin"S" posted:I am not sure how shiny you would like it to be but, if you want it to glow l would recommend a product called Simichrome. It is available at motorcycle shops and also at the auction sight. It is easy to work with and produces a great shine.
Ray
Only one problem with any polishing compound. How do you polish under all the details lying on or near the surface of the body. No way one could get a uniform sheen with any product which required rubbing and buffing. Once many years ago in the late 70s I polished a brass box cab electric and removed most of the add on details before starting. I spent many hours to make it look half good. With most of the details removed I was able to use soft polishing wheels. Bruk has not mentioned what type locomotive he has but it would be crazy to use polishing wheels or bonnets on a steam locomotive other than some streamline locos with very little piping. I had a variety of cloth wheels, q-tips, baby diapers and polishing compounds and it was a painful process. I never intended to paint this loco other than a coat of clear lacquer. If you intend to ever put a permanent paint job on the piece you will need to get the surface back to a satin finish. I just cannot imagine trying to put a mirror or near mirror finish on a brass steam locomotive with any level of delicate details. j
Why cant you use a dremel polishing wheel on a brass o scale steam locomotive?
@prrhorseshoecurve posted:Why cant you use a dremel polishing wheel on a brass o scale steam locomotive?
How would one get behind all the piping and details in order to remove the sprayed on coating?
Here is the definitive answer (opinion, of course) - you need to find somebody who does "bright dip" if you want it to "glow."
If you are going to paint it, a bead-blast at around 35 psi can't be beat.
Anything else will require Q-tips and elbow grease, and will leave residue behind the check valves.
@prrhorseshoecurve posted:Why cant you use a dremel polishing wheel on a brass o scale steam locomotive?
Doubt you will be able to get into and behind everything everywhere, and on some engines some parts just might go flying off into space.
@Hot Water posted:How would one get behind all the piping and details in order to remove the sprayed on coating?
Clear lacquer comes off easy with little or no rubbing. Just a soak in Lacquer thinner or acetone perhaps a soft long bristle paint brush to coax some areas under details along. But given time you can dissolve clear lacquer away with only a soak. Not at all like stripping 1950s Lionel steam locos. It's polishing without the polishing wheels ripping off detail that is the hard part. j
@bob2 posted:The old military staple - Brasso - has changed. It no longer cleans or polishes very well, and smells funny. Boo!
I have to agree: I tried Brasso on some cymbals (for drums) and it was messy, stinky and didn't really do such a great job. Was very disappointed, actually.
Mark in Oregon
@bob2 posted:The old military staple - Brasso - has changed. It no longer cleans or polishes very well, and smells funny. Boo!
I think a vinegar bath removes tarnish. I just use the Barkeepers - light phosphoric acid, I think. Seems benign.
Second for vinegar as an initial step in cleaning/restoring brass.
I'ved soaked brass wire screws from the backs of old transformers in vinegar and they've come out very well.
@Norton posted:Lacquer thinner might be a better choice only because it doesn’t evaporate as quickly as acetone. I would use a container that fits the engine as close as possible and immerse it. Can’t get the good methylene chloride strippers anymore. They would have that coating off in minutes.
Pete
Hey Pete,
I saw this at Lowes yesterday. I did buy a can just because.
When I picked up the second last can of MEK last year the shelf next to it was filled with the substitute. Let us know how that works. I am am set for now unless it evaporates from the can.
Pete
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