cleaning track

ironlake2 posted:

what causes traction tires to loose traction,  I have a lot of blackjunk  on my track and it takes for ever to get it all off using  acholol and a rag expecially on gargraves track.  any suggestions what works good to get it off in a couple of rubs with a rag,

clean your track more often.

start with goo-gone and then the alcohol.

at this point you might need one of those cleaning bricks

another thread here;

https://ogrforum.com/t...aning---need-to-know

Yes, DEFINITELY clean your track more often, however I personally NEVER use Goo-Gone as it leaves a film on the rail head. I prefer Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner, as both clean VERY del, dry quickly, and do NOT leave a film on the rails.  

Hot Water posted:

Yes, DEFINITELY clean your track more often, however I personally NEVER use Goo-Gone as it leaves a film on the rail head. I prefer Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner, as both clean VERY del, dry quickly, and do NOT leave a film on the rails.  

film comes off with denatured alcohol, been doing it since 2002.

bigdodgetrain posted:

Hot Water posted:

Yes, DEFINITELY clean your track more often, however I personally NEVER use Goo-Gone as it leaves a film on the rail head. I prefer Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner, as both clean VERY del, dry quickly, and do NOT leave a film on the rails.  

film comes off with denatured alcohol, been doing it since 2002.

OK but, why even bother with that stuff when Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner do the job anyway? 

Hi- Just a comment here, when I tested with my cleaning car Goo-gone and Denatured Alcohol, I notice that my cleaning rollers when using Goo-gone has black junk on it however when using the DA, I notice nothing on the cleaning rollers for some reason. As a practice after using the Goo-gone, I go over the tracks with a clean cloth.

Any thoughts on this?

Trackahead posted:

Hi- Just a comment here, when I tested with my cleaning car Goo-gone and Denatured Alcohol, I notice that my cleaning rollers when using Goo-gone has black junk on it however when using the DA, I notice nothing on the cleaning rollers for some reason. As a practice after using the Goo-gone, I go over the tracks with a clean cloth.

Any thoughts on this?

Maybe it depends on the brand of track also. With all Atlas O solid nickel silver track, the cotton rags I use, moistened with either Denatured Alcohol or Lacquer Thinner, always seem to have "dirty/black" lines from the rails, prior to my rotating to a cleaner part of the rag.

Hot Water - Thanks for the reply, I do have Atlas track and will try the DA again next cleaning time--woops looks like now...

I would NEVER use Goo-Gone on the track. I've never had a problem with "film" but HAVE had issues where the Goo-Gone seeps into track joints and pins. Started having a ton of issues with one of my loops after using Goo-Gone. Once I started taking track apart, I saw all of the pins, even in the rails, were coated with black, grime and oily Goo-Gone. NASTY! Once that was cleaned out and some new track installed, trains ran great. Goo-Gone is good for wheels and Rollers. Never on the track. Never lost a traction tire because of Goo-Gone.

Gentlemen,

    I have been using CRC cleaner and a soft rag for many years, works well on both conventional Tubular and FasTrack.

PCRR/Dave

Pine Creek Railroad posted:

Gentlemen,

    I have been using CRC cleaner and a soft rag for many years, works well on both conventional Tubular and FasTrack.

PCRR/Dave

Do you also have the MTH DCS system on your layout? I found out the hard way that those various CRC products sure mess up the DCS signal strength. Thus,,,,,,,back to Denatured Alcohol and Lacquer Thinner on Atlas track. 

I use a soft rag and 91% Isopropyl alcohol for quick cleans. If it requires better, I use a piece of blue Scotch Brite and the alcohol. My rails glisten.

Roger

Like PCRR/Dave, I've been using CRC Brakleen for years and haven't had any signal issues.  You would want to avoid CRC products that contain oils, silicon, or protectorants.

I also avoid goo-gone because of residue issues.

Be careful with any abrasive bricks.  Visible and invisible steel particles get picked up by magnetraction, by motors, and by speakers.

I use CRC QD Electronic cleaner, #05103, that a friend who is a manger of an O'Reilly Auto Parts store gets for me.

Dries almost instantly, leaves no residue and is safe on plastic. I spray it on an old terry cloth towel and wipe the track down; it cleans easily and quickly.

I also use it on q-tips to clean pick up rollers and wheels on locomotives, tenders and passenger cars.

Caution: Like Brakleen, it does state that it is extremely flammable so shut everything down and use with ventilation.

FYI: I run Legacy on Fastrack.

One can never overemphasize that some of these solvents (including alcohol) are not only flammable, but explosive, and shouldn't be used near a water heater or furnace with a pilot light.  Also, in an enclosed space, some have health effects.  Got a real hangover after cleaning tracks with alcohol, once.

RJR posted:

 

Be careful with any abrasive bricks.  Visible and invisible steel particles get picked up by magnetraction, by motors, and by speakers.

Must admit that I have never had an issue with "visible and invisible steel particles" when using abrasive 320 grit shop clothe on my Atlas O track.

Hot water, about 40 or more years ago, I cleaned tracks with an abrasive.  Took quite awhile to get "filings" off the magnetraction wheels.   Never tried it again.  Also, grit can affect gears.  So my rule is to be careful. 

And never use steel wool to remove rust; if it's bad, either replace track or get bronze wool from a boating supply store.

RJR posted:

Hot water, about 40 or more years ago, I cleaned tracks with an abrasive.  Took quite awhile to get "filings" off the magnetraction wheels.   Never tried it again.  Also, grit can affect gears.  So my rule is to be careful. 

Since Atlas O track is solid nickel silver, I doubt I'll ever have any issues.

And never use steel wool to remove rust; if it's bad, either replace track or get bronze wool from a boating supply store.

Fully agree with THAT! The only thing I use steel wool around the house for, is to plug small holes in the foundation in order to keep the chipmunks & mice out.

and don't run anything with traction tires until all fluids have dried!

Anyone use Acetone? Pluses and minus. I use it and so far no problems.  The layout is in the garage so ventilation is not a problem.

Brent

Acetone will absolutely damage plastic.  I will also damage fiberglass if allowed to remain on it.  For that reason alone, I wouldn't use it.  I use it for cleaning up tools of epoxy/polyester after working with them, but not often.

I don't know about you folks, but we on goingly clean the rails with 97% Denatured Alcohol, but if you don't take the time to clean the wheels, then why bother with the track!

This will always be a problem, especially at "Model Railroad Clubs", as you have one group awaiting another, to get the cleaning done, so the 1st group can run their trains, on clean track, but it's usually that group, that never take the time to clean their wheels/drivers, then when they're finished the Da** track is dirty for the rest . 

We had one member clean the rails with WD40 (Water Displacment-40 attempts), now how long do think that worked out, with all of the traction tires?

Well it didn't, biggest mess we've had to date!  20# of cleaning rags, and 3/4 gal of DA, I had the tracks and switches cleaned again!

Thinking about switching from model railroading to maybe "Golf" or "Fishing", as I would dabble in profanity far less, and I wouldn't have to be concerned with DCS/Legacy/TMCC, and fighting "Signal Strength" of the Big 3.

You still do either, in the "conventional mode"!.......................................................Brandy

This article from a chemist has some interesting insights on cleaning track. It is from the HO/N scale side of the hobby. http://tonystrains.com/chemist...s-cmx-clean-machine/

I have Atlas track and I clean the rails with a Scotch-Brite pad. It removes any traction tire residue from the outer rails and the black stuff (carbon?) from the center rail. The black paint was removed exposing a shiny nickel silver rail just like the outer rails but after running trains it darkens again, presumably with carbon. If I run a finger over it I get black lines on my finger. Same with a rag. My trains (TMCC, LEGACY and ProtoSound 2) run fine on the track. It's just something that I've noticed after operating sessions.

I used to use scotch brite then a friend with 3000ft of track told me to use acetone and it does a great job with alot less elbow grease,I also use it on the loco rollers and wheels.

Mikey

Hot Water posted:

bigdodgetrain posted:

Hot Water posted:

Yes, DEFINITELY clean your track more often, however I personally NEVER use Goo-Gone as it leaves a film on the rail head. I prefer Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner, as both clean VERY del, dry quickly, and do NOT leave a film on the rails.  

film comes off with denatured alcohol, been doing it since 2002.

OK but, why even bother with that stuff when Denatured Alcohol and/or Lacquer Thinner do the job anyway? 

because when we just use the denatured alcohol it takes twice as long to clean the track.  we make one pass with a pad and a small amount of goo-gone to loosen up the dirt and use the denatured alcohol to finish the job.  really makes it easier. it is a fine line too much goo-gone and it is harder.

I use Deoxit D5. This is an electrical contact cleaner that cleans and improves contact. It's pretty expensive at $20 for a 5 oz can but I've been using the same can for about a two years and I clean three weeks or so. I shoot a little on a piece of Shamwow on a block of wood. Then wipe once to clean and again with a clean piece of cloth. Overkill probably but it works for me.

We use this car with denatured alcohol, 70% isopropyl alcohol, laquer thinner, or acetone. Whatever we have on hand. Soak a pad, run it around a few laps, replace pad with a dry one for a few laps...run trains.

ROGER1 posted:

I use a soft rag and 91% Isopropyl alcohol for quick cleans. If it requires better, I use a piece of blue Scotch Brite and the alcohol. My rails glisten.

Roger

Amen, I do the same with 91% Isopropyl.  I know when my Fastrack needs cleaning when my trolley fails to light up and roll after it has been sitting for a while.  I have found that 91% is mandatory; tried using 70% and that produced erratic running of the trolley.  I use paper towel instead of cloth and yes, there are black track lines on it after taking a swipe.  Also use a cue tip and Iso to clean rollers and wheels.

I do have a can of CRC QD and noticed that it smells a lot like isopropyl alcohol.

I have Fastrack and thought acetone would dissolve plastic.

The chemist article above mentions that lacquer thinner contains acetone.

And it helps to have a steam engine which has sliding shoes for third rail contact.  Marx and some entry level pPW Lionel steamers have them.  Place on track and rum.  If you see a lot of sparks along the center rail, it needs cleaning!

I have one of those fancy CMX Clean Machine cars and it works awesome. I use acetone in it to clean the tracks and I will run it on the layout for an hour or more per mainline. I clean the yards and spurs by hand with alcohol or acetone. Ive been thinking about using some MTH gondolas with junk load and adding some scotchbrite pads underneath to give more mechanical scrubbing to my cleaning

Doug,

Where did you get the car?