You would do well to read the "Publisher's Musings" in the latest Model Railroad Hobbyist magazine about cleaning track. And be sure to read the link taking you to the "Black Gunk" sidebar noting exactly where the black stuff comes from! I think you will find it very interesting!!!
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Huh. My Uncle used to regularly spray his engine and the engine compartment with WD40. Turns out he was right. So alcohol is a nyet but WD40, WD40 contact cleaner and CRC contact cleaner WITH PROTECTANT are go-toes for track cleaning. Tnx for the linky.
Lew
I just don't clean the track on my layout. Problem solved 
.
Good sidebar article there. I believe it supports the old model railroader's use of Wahl Clipper oil to help reduce the arcing and crud build-up (also prevents oxidation from moisture). My experience is that it works but you have to find the right balance, not too much and not too little.
Oh well, the items listed to avoid are what we have been using at NJ Hirailers. Go figure.......... Thanks for posting.
Good articles on the Gunk above. Some recommend iso alcohol 91, some mineral spirits, some Wahl hair clipper oil, etc. Traction tires must be considered when using a cleaner.
Looked at a few videos on the subject:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ReSUSruSVVY which recommends CRC 2-26
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bmOPOcxXPjE which recommends ATF fluid but not for locos with traction tires.
The quest goes on.
One thing I find missing in discussing track cleaners is how to use the different cleaners. Being new, I decided to use dedicated track cleaner - ACT-6006 paraffinic hydrocarbon recommended by a local hobby shop. Worked great a few times by wetting a strong paper towel and wiping the track. Then one day I used it, turned on my set, and the engine wheels spun around without going anywhere. Oh - not only do I have to wipe it on but I also have to take a dry paper towel and wipe it off. Or maybe it would evaporate by itself over time - but how long? It would be nice if the different manufacturers and testers told how to apply different track cleaners. For example, mineral spirits probably does not need to be wiped off and should evaporate quickly.
I use a small block of wood from a end of a 2x4. when the end gets dirty I just cut it off or use a new small block of 2x4.
I have not cleaned track in a few years but only run trains a few hours a month.
It appears to me that some of you are not understanding everything that the articles are saying.
Does anyone know what category naptha would be in? Thanks
I don’t see Simple Green on the list......
So, the article makes good sense. CRC seems to be the choice. I'm wondering about automotive Carburetor Gumout. It's a super fast gunk and crud cleaner and I think it's as available as CRC but cheaper.
Is the graphite coating really necessary. If so, where do you get a graphite stick? I've seen it in powder form but not in a stick.
Patrick1544 posted:If so, where do you get a graphite stick? I've seen it in powder form but not in a stick.
#2 Pencil
Necessary? Probably not. Helpful? I think that is what the article says.
Is this good or is that good?
I don't think that I would try things that are not on the list.
Ok, I read this and decided to try the CRC with protectant. Have been using alcohol previously. The result:
FAIL
On my layout with 4% grades (Gargraves), the track became so slippery smooth (from the protectant, I presume) that none of my locomotives could pull the normal number of cars up the grade. Some experienced a major loss of performance, some only moderate.
Given I already struggle with traction issues, this definitely made the problem worse. So I would not recommend it, although I know that many accomplished people on this forum do. I have to respectfully disagree on this one.
Has anyone ever tried lightly sanding Gargraves to roughen it up to improve traction? I’m willing to try just about anything. Thoughts?
Thanks.
Title is misleading. You need to add HO or DC to it.
I left HO because I couldn't keep engines running. No need to ever clean 3r AC powered tracks.
I tend to agree with SIRT.
Although I have very gentle grades, I'm getting very good results with traction and hardly any derailments. No need for me to clean my 3 rail tubular track, but I think what also helps is that I'm also running trains almost every day for at least for a few minutes and I'm keeping the dehumidifier on in my basement most of the time to keep the layout and train room bone dry. Arnold
This discussion kind of slipped back into personal favorites for track cleaning.
One factor not mentioned in the link to the magazine column was rubber traction tires, which 2-rail modelers do not have to deal with. I have long suspected that they are a blessing and a curse to 3-rail modelers. They may be responsible for some of the crud that appears on the outside rails. But that cannot explain filmy crud on the center rail. Almost nobody changes rubber traction tires as periodic maintenance. There's bound to be oxidation on the tires of any engine not run frequently, and especially if allowed to sit for months before being run.
I will guarantee one thing: slipping drive wheels with rubber tires is going to affect the cleanliness of the outside rails where the slippage occurs. We can't very well lubricate curves like prototype railroads do. One thing we can do is make sure that our cars' axles are oiled for the smoothest rolling performance possible, And we need to watch out for oil getting onto the wheel tread.
Originally, I used Goo Gone, but the thin film of oil it left behind was not to my liking. Then I tried denatured alcohol, which does clean well, but acmes with some baggage in the handling of it, and, from the opinion of the writer in the link, post-cleaning problems. I have been using Ronsonol Lighter fluid as a solvent, at the suggestion of Roger Farkash, and it definitely gives me better results than denatured alcohol did. So, after reading the article in the link, I looked at the can to see what's in it. Petroleum distillate. Period. What is in Wahl Clipper oil? Let's compare.
I try to remember to run the track cleaning car, wet or dry, before and after each operating session. Regardless of what we use for cleaning solvent, frequency probably makes more difference than anything else. But I can still get black stuff on a cotton rag saturated with any solvent. Is that also your experience?
I am building my railroad with used track. I’ll clean it with a briteboy when I lay it down and only do touch up cleaning after. Running trains is the best defense for dirty rail. If I do need a little more help I use contact cleaner.
Number 90 posted:
This discussion kind of slipped back into personal favorites for track cleaning.
...Then I tried denatured alcohol, which does clean well, but acmes with some baggage in the handling of it, and, from the opinion of the writer in the link, post-cleaning problems. I have been using Ronsonol Lighter fluid as a solvent, at the suggestion of Roger Farkash, and it definitely gives me better results than denatured alcohol did.
...Regardless of what we use for cleaning solvent, frequency probably makes more difference than anything else. But I can still get black stuff on a cotton rag saturated with any solvent. Is that also your experience?
After reading (maybe here) about the Ronsonol stuff, I tried it and I have to agree with the above highlighted statement. Works vastly better than anything else I have tried...FWIW.
Mark in Oregon
I read the article Big Jim posted the link to and finally tried Lacquer Thinner. Applied with a wet Scotchbrite Greenback Sponge, light scrubing back and forth a couple times. Then let it sit two hours and wiped off the residue. It cleaned so much more off the rails than anything else I had previously tried. That was from only 40 feet approx of Fastrack. 
@Dallas Joseph posted:That is one great looking area you've made at the RR crossing Tom.
Nice work.
I wish I could take credit, Dallas, and thank you for the compliment, but the crossing and its tire tracks are the work of Roger Farkash.
I still use the track cleaning car and usually pull it with one of the Lionel Fairbanks-Morse H16-44's as shown in the video.
I like the lighter Fluid for cleaning out grease oil and gunk from engines, cars and tracks best stuff let evaporate relube needed items and bam great. I learned this from my Father who taught me to clean old Lionels.
@Number 90 posted:This discussion kind of slipped back into personal favorites for track cleaning.
One factor not mentioned in the link to the magazine column was rubber traction tires, which 2-rail modelers do not have to deal with. I have long suspected that they are a blessing and a curse to 3-rail modelers. They may be responsible for some of the crud that appears on the outside rails. But that cannot explain filmy crud on the center rail. Almost nobody changes rubber traction tires as periodic maintenance. There's bound to be oxidation on the tires of any engine not run frequently, and especially if allowed to sit for months before being run.
I will guarantee one thing: slipping drive wheels with rubber tires is going to affect the cleanliness of the outside rails where the slippage occurs. We can't very well lubricate curves like prototype railroads do. One thing we can do is make sure that our cars' axles are oiled for the smoothest rolling performance possible, And we need to watch out for oil getting onto the wheel tread.
Originally, I used Goo Gone, but the thin film of oil it left behind was not to my liking. Then I tried denatured alcohol, which does clean well, but acmes with some baggage in the handling of it, and, from the opinion of the writer in the link, post-cleaning problems. I have been using Ronsonol Lighter fluid as a solvent, at the suggestion of Roger Farkash, and it definitely gives me better results than denatured alcohol did. So, after reading the article in the link, I looked at the can to see what's in it. Petroleum distillate. Period. What is in Wahl Clipper oil? Let's compare.
I try to remember to run the track cleaning car, wet or dry, before and after each operating session. Regardless of what we use for cleaning solvent, frequency probably makes more difference than anything else. But I can still get black stuff on a cotton rag saturated with any solvent. Is that also your experience?
I recommended Ronsonol Lighter Fluid years ago here, and was roundly castigated as a nut. But then, I'm not Roger Farkash...
Jon 
@KOOLjock1 posted:I recommended Ronsonol Lighter Fluid years ago here, and was roundly castigated as a nut. But then, I'm not Roger Farkash...
Jon
Regrettably, I missed your post. Had I read it, Roger would have said, "Say, I see you use Ronsonol, too."
I agree with SIRT and Arnold; I very rarely clean my track, and if I do, I do a quick wipe with 91% alcohol, followed by a clean rag.
I swear by dry Mr Clean Magic Eraser sheets. The "book" of thin sheets ( approx. 1/8" thick sheets) I find the sheets much easier to use than the larger blocks. I've had great luck with them and I don't have to use any kind of liquid.
Found an almost full bottle of Colber Miracle Track cleaner in my pile of liquids. Probably sitting around since the 50's. I used it with my North East Trains track cleaning car and it did a nice job. I'm not sure what is in it but by the odor I suspect it may be Xylene. I'll try and have my R&D department GC it to see if I can determine the composition.
I like the idea of the Mr. Clean Magic Eraser sheets. They would probably fit on the NE Trains track cleaning car.
@Train Nut posted:I swear by dry Mr Clean Magic Eraser sheets. The "book" of thin sheets ( approx. 1/8" thick sheets) I find the sheets much easier to use than the larger blocks. I've had great luck with them and I don't have to use any kind of liquid.
I’m interested in this too. Do you wet the sheets ahead of time or just leave it dry?
I use the centerline car and envision cutting the sheet to the roller width. Then maybe wrap it around twice and gluing the sheet to itself to hold it in place. Do you think that might clean well?
@ChiTown Steve posted:I’m interested in this too. Do you wet the sheets ahead of time or just leave it dry?
I use the centerline car and envision cutting the sheet to the roller width. Then maybe wrap it around twice and gluing the sheet to itself to hold it in place. Do you think that might clean well?
I dont wet them i just use it dry. It buffs even the most stubborn crud off, leaving nice shiney rails.
I would think in a centerline car you would only be able to wrap it around once, and it would need to be wet as it's more of a blotting action as opposed to a scrubbing action.
I'll stick to more conventional cleaning products for my track.
@CoastsideKevin posted:Ok, I read this and decided to try the CRC with protectant. Have been using alcohol previously. The result:
FAIL
On my layout with 4% grades (Gargraves), the track became so slippery smooth (from the protectant, I presume) that none of my locomotives could pull the normal number of cars up the grade. Some experienced a major loss of performance, some only moderate.
Given I already struggle with traction issues, this definitely made the problem worse. So I would not recommend it, although I know that many accomplished people on this forum do. I have to respectfully disagree on this one.
Has anyone ever tried lightly sanding Gargraves to roughen it up to improve traction? I’m willing to try just about anything. Thoughts?
Thanks.
I use sandpaper in a doubled up strip a little wider than my MTH Realtrax . I cut out enough at one end to attach to the couplers between the engine and first car. I then roll up the rest in reverse so as not to unroll and cause a derailment . I then can run it around as many times as I like.
Now Kevin.........the sandpaper I use is 7000 GRIT 
wetand dry type with no water. My purpose is to polish the rails to a mirror finish so as to ELIMINATE or LESSEN scratches which can induce more oxidztion on the track. As the 7000 GRIT wears down it becomes a finer sanding agent.
The engines have to negotiate a rise to get on the Railking bridges in about 10 feet of trvel which is partially done on a 5 feet section ( partially with 031s ) of curved sections to reverse travel.
I do have all MTH engines with traction tires and can pull the 23 coal cars that I have or my 10 passenger cars with my articulated steamers or any of my diesels with no problem.
Kevin, with you slippage on your grades, are using traction tires or engines with Magnatraction ? 🤔
Sanding, no matter how fine the grit, is removing the tin plating on the track. Once you have removed sections of the tin plating, you'll be cleaning a lot more often and fighting the beginnings of rust as well.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Sanding, no matter how fine the grit, is removing the tin plating on the track. Once you have removed sections of the tin plating, you'll be cleaning a lot more often and fighting the beginnings of rust as well.
Is that true of MTH's Realtrax John ?
That would be true of any tin plated track. Any abrasive will take the tin plating off, that's what abrasives do, remove material!
Thanks TrainNut I’ll give a try. John, nothing ventured nothing gained. 😄
@gunrunnerjohn posted:That would be true of any tin plated track. Any abrasive will take the tin plating off, that's what abrasives do, remove material!
I was just wondering . The 7000 grit is pretty much like newspaper.
I've had pieces of the Lionel track and the Realtrax setting around for quite a long time that I had cut pieces of the rail for different size sections and noticed corosion on the Lionel tubular track but not the Realtrax.🤔
I don't really clean the track except after sessions with a lot of smoke fluid being evapped into the air over the layout .......or .........whenever I lose count on how many drops of fluid ( 18 or 81 ???? ) that I notice on the wheels of the engine. I use Zippo lighter fluid ( Naptha ? ) on the rails then, since it doesn't leave any residue. Would that cause issues ? 
Naphtha is actually one of the non-polar solvents, but it is highly flammable, so you want to be careful using it.
@gunrunnerjohn posted:Naphtha is actually one of the non-polar solvents, but it is highly flammable, so you want to be careful using it.
Roger that . Thanks John.
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