Cleaning trains

Don't have any repro tinplate, just old real steel, but metal is metal right?

I use warm water and Dawn dish detergent. Works well on paint and litho. If they use it to clean oil slicks off baby seals and ducks, it should work on trains! LOL Also a soft cloth or tissues.

and since the furnace is running this time of year, I set my trains over a register to dry.

Some may say this is silly, but I have used this stuff for years on metal, paper (enameled), vinyl, oil cloth, laminate, plastics, just about anything with a finish. Used carefully, the results can be amazing. One thing I never use it for is fine furniture.

Hmmmm, interesting. I think I will try it.

Try it, Andy. Tip: Apply it first to a cloth and not directly. Start with something simple and on an inconspicuous location. Have fun.

when I bought my 2046 years ago, the dealer told me about using Pledge. It really makes the steamers look great. as mentioned, on a soft cloth first, and don't over do it. 

Careful not to ruin the patina..!!

Patina is desirable. Dirt and grime, not so much. But how much patina could new tinplate have?

In my experience, Pledge is not a great cleanser.  It has a relatively high wax content, and on an already clean surface, especially the satin black of old steamers, will give the surface a nice sheen.  However, the wax attracts dust and grime so the engine needs to be cleaned more often.

To the OP's question, I too favor the dish soap and warm water approach.  For super nasty and thick grime/grease you might try a Q-tip dipped in 91% isopropyl.  Use the alcohol sparingly and squeeze out the Q-tip before applying.  Check any paint for color-fastness too.

HTH

Jon 

I wouldn't consider Pledge a cleanser, either, since it doesn't contain any abrasives. The label suggests that it...dusts, cleans and shines! In the case of Pledge, "cleans" is a relative term. I would agree that a solution of Dawn and warm water would best clean somewhat dirty and grimy tinplate more effectively, and depending on the situation, finish with a treatment of Pledge.

Even though Pledge is a Johnson Wax product, I believe the proprietary ingredient is silicone base and has little if any wax, the reason I refuse to use on fine wood finishes. It's definitely not for everything, and I would be hesitant to employ it on antique painted surfaces.

I might try the Dawn and water solution first.  Then, maybe pledge on an inconspicuous area.

I noticed the windows also seem a bit grimy, but they are hard to get at and rather fragile. 

Good luck, Frank. Despite the chore and tedium, it sounds like a fun project. Please post pictures of your resulting labors.

sorry, I didn't mean to use the Pledge as a cleaner, I do the dish liquid, and after drying then I do the Pledge.

An premium quality, super soft 3 " wide horsehair paintbrush( about $ 25 ) cleans all but the most stubborn stains, dusts every nook and cranny, will not scratch and takes less than a minute! I brush vigorously before i put them away or when dusting the display shelves. It really works well, it even gives a light polish and nice luster to paintwork and plated parts!

Any oil, or silicone cleans to some degree. Around chips oils can creep under, and lift paint too. The carrier solution alone, being wet will clean something.

 I know Pledge cleans plastic well in general, but spraying on paint without good tests is not advisable. As stated, spray on a cloth, (or brush for corners) and let it breath and settle a few seconds before use.(bubbles should stop popping?).

  I've been told by some corporate maintenance experts I answered to, it does contain "something(?)" beneficial too old plastic, and a "soak" restores some beneficial oils lost to other cleaners. In warm weather, I use it on the plastic window of my screen door for a crystal clear pane. But must remove it by late fall (rubbing alcohol) as cold weather will make it fog/haze. 

I've been restoring trains of all types for 40 years and we have always used Palmolive dish soap because it leaves no residue. As far as polish, Yes Pledge is good but if you spray some Armor All on a paint brush then apply it to the train and brush it on in a light fashion it does a better job. No streaks or swirls from the polish like Pledge does.

While the focus of this thread started out on recent issue tinplate, folks should be aware that some of the paints & decorating  that Lionel used during the prewar and postwar period will wash off with water.

C.W. what type of engines or rolling stock does the paint wash off with water?

I have been cleaning Lionel stuff for about 25 years and never had a problem with paint washing off. The only problem I had was with the lettering on some of the milk cars washing off.

As for the paint, all the paint back then was all lead based. Very strong and durable!

Just would like to know so I don't have a problem in the future.

As for cleaning, the above advise is great and is what I have done and used.

One other tip, is if you are cleaning up switches, transformers, plastics and such, with NO lettering,  I have been using a product called "Awesome" which comes in a spray bottle and can be found at the Dollar Store for $1.00 a bottle.

You spray this stuff on and watch all the grime, oil and nicotine crap wash off these pieces. Be surprised how dirty some of these pieces really are. Rinse it off, let it dry and then my little trick is to place some drops of oil, which you use for lubricating your engines, on these pieces and take a small paint brush and spread it out on the clean piece.

These come out looking like brand new again!

I would not recommend using "Awesome" on or around any engines or rolling stock as this stuff will take off the lettering. Use the warm water and Dawn on these!

lett

quote:

C.W. what type of engines or rolling stock does the paint wash off with water?

I don't have a complete catalog, some items:

Prewar red boom on 810 crane

Prewar red lamp post (I forget which one)

Postwar red 395 light tower

Mild soap and water:

Lettering / decorations on many 6014 style boxcars

lettering on late 6464 Timken boxcar.

lettering on #51 Navy Yard switcher

Lettering on milk cars,

lettering on 6646 stock car

To this I would add, start cleaning with the mildest liquid, and advance only if the item hasn't come clean.  American Flyer prewar tinplate does not take kindly to isopropyl alcohol.  See the photo of how I know.

That Dawn is pretty useful stuff, cleaning contaminated wildlife and toy trains, and two auto body shops have told me it is the best thing for washing modern cars.

Oh my!!!!!!   Yes, I will keep the alcohol away from my Flyer treasures. Geez, that's nasty.

I would say your doing just fine.   The KISS principal applies in most of these cases!

Frank,

When you are through trying the rest, let's get serious without any doubts and go with the absolute best. In my opinion the very best is, Mothers "California Gold", Carnauba Cleaner Wax. I have been using it for years on my vintage prewar Std & O-Gauge Tinplate. My convictions run deep when cleaning and waxing my items. Here they are, 1.) Always start with a freshly washed and completely dry piece. Use a blow dryer if you have to. 2.) Never apply a heavy coat of a Carnauba type wax. 3.) Always clean and buff with soft 100% cotton towels. 4.) Clean grooves and trim areas with a soft make up brush. It's that easy and remember this. Sometimes it takes multiple cleanings to remove mistakes made by previous owner(s).