You can take your digital ammeter and put in series with one passenger car, turn on the power, and find out what the current draw is, then multiply by the number of cars on the track at one time.

Each lamp probably draws 0.2 Amp.  At 12 volts, a .2 Amp draw uses 2.4 Watts. (Watts = Volts X Amps) So if a passenger car has two lamps, it's using around 5 Watts.  Six cars would use 30 Watts.

This excessive power usage is one of the reasons folks switch to LED passenger car lighting.

You are probably getting a power loss from your 18 gauge wire. Instead of replacing the existing 18 gauge wire, just run another 18 gauge wire in parallel with it, connecting it the exact same way, along the track.   Theoretically, two #18 wires in parallel would give you the ampacity of one #15 wire, more than adequate, I would think, for your needs.

I have a set of nine MTH 18" passenger cars.  With the stock lighting, they were sucking down more than 3 amps at 18 volts!  Now with the LED lighting, they are sucking down around 200ma at 18 volts.  The lighting is more even and natural, and power use has ceased to be an issue.

If all you want is a brick with more power, get a Lionel 180W. they should be readily available either new or on the secondary market(Ebay) or the for sale forum here---

i have a Z4000 on one layout, the other uses a Z1000. When i get around to building the next one, I'll be using transformers from several dead computer UPS units-- 200w for each TIU input channel.

The other bonus of the PH180 is it has the best circuit breaker of any transformer I'm aware of.  It fires in milliseconds, the breakers on the Z1000 take seconds, even with a fairly significant overload.  You can put an 8-9 amp load on them and it'll take forever for them to trip.

John, I don't dispute you but I'm surprised about the Z-1000 bricks not popping faster.

Mine will pop just running the Phantom with all 4 cars for about 2 laps at moderate speed. That Train must eat a lot of amps.

Then again I can pull 58 cars, about 6 with lights behind my Big Boy with no issues... 

Also, my breaker pops regularly for derails... But I know those are lots of amps.

Well, I only tested a sample of one, and a direct short would kick it within a couple of seconds.  However, a moderate overload would take forever.  I had 8 amps on the 6A breaker, and I got tired of waiting, but it was at least two minutes and it was still putting out power.

I tested a 2A breaker of the same type, and it will carry three amps for 15 minutes or more, again I got tired of waiting.  The 2A breaker took 15 seconds with 5 amps!

I have some of the 6A breakers in my parts box, I'll have to try them out.

@ Russell  What are you not disputing? 

Also is there not a consideration from power supplies( bricks) having clean power so as to not interfere with DCS?

A power supply from a "dead ups" ....can you identify the name of this brick?

AC Power Supply - 200 Watts - 17 Amps

http://www.amazon.com/AC-Power...s-Amps/dp/B004DPS1XG

$49.95

Is there any reason I cannot use this on my DCS system to power the track?

A couple of reasons are it's a DC supply, so if you have any Lionel TMCC/Legacy locomotives, they won't run properly. 

The output voltage isn't specified, so there's no telling what it's actually putting out.  This is a big one in my book.  If the 200 watts is to be believed, that would be around 12 volts at 17 amps, not really enough voltage for most command stuff.

Using DC, you can't run it through the variable channels, as they only accept AC.  I don't know what happens if you lock them in fixed mode, but given the power still goes through the switching FETs, I tend to doubt it.

It's 17 amps, so you'll have to limit the current, the TIU channels take a MAXIMUM of 12 amps.

Do yourself a favor and look on eBay for a Lionel Powerhouse 180, they sell anywhere from the 50's to the 80's pretty frequently, they're AC, have a lightning fast 10 amp breaker, and they put out a true 180 watts at 18 volts.

1drummer: a UPS is an "Uninterruptable Power Supply". they are used to keep your desktop/laptop computer running for a few minutes if you lose your house power. this allows you to shut down your computer properly so you don't lose data. They are rated by wattage-- the old ones I have quit working, and I got them from my IT guy at work. The ones we use now are rated for 1000 watts, so the 200 watt ones were scrapped as the died. The main guts of these things are very hefty 60 hz transformers-- so they are perfect to use as long as you use appropriate fuses or breakers, and house them in a non conductive case.

Two 18 gauge wires in parallel are equivalent to 15 gauge wire.  Copper area doubles/halves for every 3 wire gauge steps.  (FOUR 18ga = 12ga)

Sorry, 15 gauge is correct. I went back and corrected it.

yeah I saw the dc part after I posted..but too occupied with "life issues" to address until now..

so where can I find an 18 volt ac power supply  with decent amp rating without buying a z4000...

I do not know anyone throwing away ups..

As John said: "Do yourself a favor and look on eBay for a Lionel Powerhouse 180, they sell anywhere from the 50's to the 80's pretty frequently, they're AC, have a lightning fast 10 amp breaker, and they put out a true 180 watts at 18 volts."

Rod

the z4000 has 400 Watts (1) 14v 3amp fixed output, (1) 10v 3amp fixed output, (2) 180 watt track outputs

180 watts/ 18 volts =10 amps

if my ohms law is correct

but I have  dcs with remote and do not require all the bells and whistles on the z4000..I would rather spend the extra money on another remote..so where can I get a decent "pure sine wave" power signal

Lionel Powerhouse 180,  too expensive..I want new and under $75....if I can get it  also Lionel on MTH thats sacrilege lol

Well, how does it feel to want?  There is nothing with 180 watts for under $75 new, plain and simple.

who ****ed in your oatmeal gunrunner? 

And It always feels good to "WANT" it is a sign that I am alive and thinking and finding things to want...and attain

and do not count me out

I usually always get what I want.

I can negotiate quite well....

once I actually find what I want...

Well, I was just telling it like it is, I wasn't trying to upset you.  You can buy a used PH180 for $75, but I'll stand by my statement that if you want factory new, you aren't going to buy a 180 watt transformer for $75, Lionel or otherwise, and certainly not one with a quality circuit breaker like the PH180.  Since you specified MTH or Lionel, one quick glance at their product catalogs tells you that what you want is not available at that price from either source.

More power to you if you manage this feat, but I'm not holding out much hope for success.