DCS Remote Commander not working

Some more info on my problem:

1. I have verified that the red terminal connector on the Remote Commander base is connected to the center rail.  Just for an experiment, I did try switching the conductors and experienced the same problem.

2. I opened up the Remote Commander base.  No signs of burned/singed components.  No funny, burned smell.

I am going on the assumption that the Remote Commander base issues the same watchdog signal that a TIU issues.  So, the engine should come up dark and silent.  As I mentioned, in my case, the engine sits for a few seconds after power is applied (waiting for the watchdog) and then when it (apparently) doesn't see it, the lights and sounds come on.   Even if the Factory Reset didn't set the ID to #1, the engine should still be dark and silent, right?

I'm no expert here, but was thinking the ID had to be 0 for the remote commander? However, if you did a full factory reset with your DCS system it should work with the remote commander. Doesn't really sound like an engine problem, but do you have another engine you could reset and try? Maybe others will be along soon with better suggestions.

Here's a reset for newer PS/3 locomotives using the DCS Remote Commander, it may solve your problem if it's a new enough locomotive.

This is the thread: https://ogrforum.com/t...57#38737274135125057

Here's the reset procedure from that thread.

Turn off power if on

wait 15 seconds

turn on power:  the engine should be dark and quiet

Press no other buttons

Press SND

Press DIR

Press "-"  (on the gray rocker in the center of the remote.  Also is the speed down button.)

The engine will give a two honk response and will be sitting on the track running

The engine has now been factory reset, and is ready to run with your DCS Remote Comander system.

Right.  As you state, the watchdog should keep any DCS engine silent on the track when power is first applied.  So even if you the Factory Reset using the TIU failed for whatever reason, it should nevertheless start up silent.  It does so even if the track is wired backwards as you wisely thought to test.

The finger does seem to be pointing at the DCSRC base unit.  I suppose the obvious next step is to try another PS engine to see if it also starts up as if no watchdog. 

I do recall one DCSRC base unit I fixed where a pin on one of the tiny surface mount IC's had an intermittent "cold" solder joint causing the exact behavior you had.  You really need a good magnifier to see this but a quick tap of the soldering iron solved the problem.  If you are so inclined to re-examine the guts, I can scrounge a bit to see if I have notes or take a photo to show you about where I found it (subject to my memory).

The good news is that I have finally gotten my ES44AC to "work" with the DCS Remote Commander.  I had to place the engine within a foot of where the power is connected to the track to get it to sense the watchdog signal.  Once I got it to start up and move, I found that the DCS signal must be close to 0 on some parts of the my layout.  The engine keeps moving, but I can't operate the bell or horn or adjust the speed.

My layout is made up of 2 reversing loops using O-48 curves that are connected by a single 10" piece of track.  The track is Fastrack.  I have one power connection, and it is connected to that 10" piece that connects the 2 loops.  So, it is effectively dead center in the layout.  This is such a small layout that I did not think I would need to do multiple power drops.

When I first set up the layout I ran a Trackman 2000 cleaning car around the layout about 10 times.  Given the issues I've been having, today I used denatured alcohol and some elbow grease to give the rails a real good cleaning.  It hasn't helped with my DCS signal.  I guess I'll have to add a couple more power drops to the layout.

GRJ, I'm definitely going to save those instructions for a PS3 Factory Reset with the Remote Commander.  My primary layout is on the second floor of a detached building.  So, it's a bit of a pain to have to move engines between the primary layout and Christmas layout.

Vince,  It may be the switches killing the DCS Signal if all else is fine.  Try a basic oval loop and see if that clears it up.

I had one customer who could not get the remote to work on his layout.  It was inside a metal sunroom.  It worked fine in the shop, on a basic layout.  In the end he got the full DCS and everything worked well.  No explanation why it would not work on his layout, but it may be a signal strength issue with the base.

Those reset instructions should be in the manual, if you got one with the new engine.  The later PS-3 also have conventional signals to turn markers, and certain lights on and off now.   G

Vince, Break the center rail at one spot in each loop.

Loops let the signal come back around and collide with copies of the signal, this creates a tower of babel condition.

With DCS always break the loops.

That is why they say to always use blocks with DCS, It prevents the looping.

If you want the Tech reason for this email me and I'll give you the long version.

Great suggestion, Russell.  My primary layout is divided into blocks for DCS, but I didn't think such a small layout would cause problems.

Today I converted 4 pieces of Fastrack to isolated block tracks by cutting the center rail.  So, my layout now has 3 completely isolated (center rail) segments.  I made up a wiring harness so that I am following the DCS recommendation of doing star wiring to send separate power feeds to each segment.

Things are slightly better, but still terrible.  There are still numerous locations around the track where I get no DCS signal.  In several locations, the engine doesn't see the watchdog signal.

I'm going to take this engine back to my primary layout and run it for awhile.  And, I will do a factory reset on another engine and try it under the tree.  If that doesn't work, I am ready to declare the DCS Remote Commander useless.  

GGG, if 2 Fastrack switches can degrade the DCS signal from the base, then the Remote Commander is a very disappointing product.  My layout is in our living room on a rug that I put under the Christmas tree.  The rug is on a hardwood floor.  So, I don't think it is a problem like the metal sunroom you referred to.

My TIU's on my primary layout are wired up and mounted to plywood.  It would be quite a project to disconnect one of them to try it under the Christmas tree.

If you're trying to run them from track power, I have a suggestion.  Put a 22uh choke between the aux power and the track power connection, this will prevent the switch electronics from affecting the DCS signal.

More updates:

I ran the Christmas ES44AC on my primary layout a little while ago.  I tested everything I could think of (not smoke because all my fluid is in the house for the Christmas tree layout).  The engine worked flawlessly.  So, my problem is not the engine.

I brought my Railking GEVO Hybrid over to the house.  I experienced the same problems as with the Christmas engine.

Both of these engines are PS3.  Is it worth it to try a PS2 engine?  Surely the Remote Commander works with the PS3 sets that it is included with so I can't believe that is an issue.

I hate to even ask, but would magic light bulbs help the Remote Commander base signal?  I've got several of Susan Deets' engineered filters.

I hate to ship this thing to MTH...the shipping cost will probably be almost half of what I paid for it.  Anybody have any suggestions what to try?  I already have 3 TIU's and 2 DCS remotes....it really bugs me if I have to spring for another TIU just for the Christmas layout.

GRJ, what if I run some power wires from the switches to the 14 volt output of the Z750 brick I am using to power the layout?  I would think that would isolate the switches from the DCS signal since the power would be coming from before the DCS Remote Commander base.

That will work as well, just trying to isolate the electronics from the track.

I don't think the DSC Remote CDR is not meant to run a large layout.  It is meant for a simple expanded loop.  I would create an expanded oval and see how it does.  IF it is working, no need to send in for repair.  The Chokes as mentioned may solve this issue.  G

I hooked up the AUX power connectors on my 2 Fastrack switches to the 14 volt aux power connector on the Z750 I'm using, and Presto!  The engine is now getting the DCS commands from the Remote Commander base.

I wouldn't have believed that the 2 switches would mess up the DCS signal that much.

Thanks for everyone's help.

Interesting because I didn't have any issues with the remote commander and FT switches when I used it on my layout. Tempted to disconnect the DCS and try the PS3 reset just to see if it works on a 1 year old PS3.

Hard to pin point why some engines or accessories do this and others don't.  Glad you have a simple solution. G