DCS remote/ZW and proto1 issues

The Var1 out isn't really 5v.  When originally designed it appears MTH assumed a 22 volt input and divided the output into 22 increments.  So, when you set Var1 to 5 volts it's really 5/22 of the input voltage.  If you have 18 volts on the input that would be 4.1 volts on the output.  You can just adjust the D handle a bit until the indicated 5v gives you the performance you want.

On the 0-8-0 check your tether, make sure its fully seated in the engine.

A poor tether connect will result in erratic chuff and other sounds.

Gary is right, If you have engines that take off at the 5V setting, reduce the ZW output until they run well. 

However, this means you are chopping the wave twice unless the ZW is a pure sine wave output, which I doubt. This is because the TIU chops the wave to reduce RMS power.

WARNING: Chopping the wave twice may cause the PS1 to not start up properly.

If that happens (Not applicable to all PS1's) simply run the ZW output max, start the engine, than reduce the ZW output as needed after the engine exits reset (about 15 seconds max if I recall).

If it's a post war ZW it is a pure sine wave.

Birlington Route,

   Do both your P1 engines act the same, or is the Zephyer running correctly and the 0-8-0 engine having problems.  If the P1 Zephyer is operating correctly via DCS then the other engine should be also, using the same track, unless there is some problem with the other engine.

PCRR/Dave

I assume you have a postwar ZW, which outputs a pure sine wave.  But when cut down in the TIU variable, the wave form changes drastically, so that at low voltages as appearing on the voltmeter, the wave form is such that---to use a non-technical expression---the loco is receiving more electricity than would normally be present at the low voltage.  The solution is to reduce the input voltage (ZW output) even more so that the TIU is not cutting the voltage as much.  This reduces distortion of the sine wave.  Hope I've been clear.

By way of example, if I input 20 volts to the TIU and have it set to output 6 volts, my Docksider flies, while applying 6 volts direcly from the transformer, or cutting the input voltage to the TIU, lets it crawl.

Dave, the zephyr is what "I" assume to be a Proto1, but it won't be recognized by the remote as on the tracks..so it's ran in conventional mode...same as the 0-8-0. The zephyr runs and sounds fine in that mode. When I tried to get the engine into the run list it won't see it...reading the DCS book it says alot of mention about "proto2" engines being put on to set this and try that...guess early proto engines aren't going to be recognized in command mode.

Another odd thing is I'm running a small, simple 0-36 oval with a 10" straight each side and I keep getting "check track" when trying to set things or RF range issues...the ZW is hooked up per the book. Also have a pair of test leads off of the TIU to a lionel lock-on{running fastrack} just for the added{per here and the book} signal strength. I'm 2 feet away from it...gotta be something else.

I can't find a way to check track signal strength without a proto2 engine here.  

 There are usually 2 parts to get dcs  to  function.

The first is remote/ tiu communications.  The remote must communicate with the tiu before anything works period. Press the "read"()bottom left on remote)  do you get the " message TIU found." Try it from a distance... 30 or so feet away. It's possible you may have a loose transceiver board in either the remote or tiu . you can usually tell by tethering the remote and tiu together with the curly phone (4 wire) cable.The one between the hand set and phone base. NOT the one that goes from the base to the wall jack, (it won't fit anyway.

The second part is the "dcs signal" for proto-2 /3 command engines,

Since you're running conventional engines the dcs signal doesn't come into play just yet.

I agree with the other experienced dcs operators.... cut the voltage down a bit with the handle of your PWZW.

Conventional engines are controlled by varying the   track voltage...

Command engines are controlled by a digital signal imposed on a constant track voltage. Roughly 20 volts. hope this helps.

Bob,

   Your P1 engines have to be controlled as you would a conventional,

they will not enter into the DCS hand held as P2 engines do, the other guys are correct, run them as you would a conventional and you should be ok.

Bob this is why I traded in all my P1 engines long ago, purchasing my P2 stuff.

PCRR/Dave

Gregg, when I try to load an engine I get "no engine on tracks"...but this is with my proto1 engines, so I now know this is to be expected. I thought that proto1s could be controlled like 2's and 3's...nope!

I pulled apart the proto1 0-8-0 last night and was amazed at how little track pick up there was on that engine...the 2 engine center rail pick ups but little else...I was looking for obvious wiring problems ....saw none.

Later today I'll try lowering the input voltage and see what she does in conventional mode...think I'll attach a voltmeter to the input lines since I doubt the lionel handle markings are all that precise.{haha}

I forsee in the future, that all 3 MTH engines will need to be converted to proto2..I also forsee the need for Barry's book in hopes it has an indepth passage of conventional mode operation...something the MTH remote booklet has little of!

Oh, am I correct about the red wire being connected to the center rail...off of the TIU....and the "pos" off of a ZW A-D lead...right...was reading that reversed leads could cause track stength/read issues....

You have the wiring correct, just make sure to put some in-line circuit protection between that ZW and the TIU if it's a PW-ZW and not a modern one.

Bob,

also forsee the need for Barry's book in hopes it has an indepth passage of conventional mode operation

Yes, it does. The book should be your very next purchase to get a better understanding of conventional operation under DCS.

This and a whole lot more is all in "The DCS O Gauge Companion 2nd Edition", now available for purchase as an eBook or a printed book from MTH's web store site! Click on the link below to go to MTH's web page for the book!

She is, and it does....I just finished relettering the top case after a coat of black paint since it wouldn't polish or buff out nicely.

Burlington Route, I'm guessing the remote /tiu communications are fine?

Did you try the "read"?

Burlington Route,

  I thought you already had the OGR DCS Video Guide and Barry's DCS O Gauge Companion, 2nd Addition, make sure you pick them up watch the film and read Barry's book, they eliminate so many problems.  You actually should have invested in these educational tools, prior to purchasing and trying to set up your layout.  As Barry said the very next thing you should do is make the investment. 

PCRR/Dave

Education material for constructing a DCS Layout - Manditory DCS Education, IMO