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Ah, The saga of the artisan garage, we all want to play in.

 

 Those shelf displays always remind me of the original offset, art deco, shelves that once adorned many of the entrances to the houses in this subdivision. 

 And yes, ours held trains ...and Hummel figures.

 

 The M casting is pretty neat. Is it an original, or a copy of an old product?

 I always wanted to do some metal casting. I even picked up a 3ft dia x 3"thick, gas smelting table and melting pot, but injured myself before I got around to using it.

 The marble is 100% new to me. An interesting product? Heat proof?

 

 

There was a huge array, many were disposable or quickly fell apart. Even the display layouts like the D11 and D289 were made of 1x2's and 1/4" Masonite and deform over time under the weight of the display. I usually re-enforce under neath with additional wood to help with the load bearing. When I reproduce the signs I will use 1/4 MDF or high grad plywood rather than the fiberboard for the sake of longevity: take the semaphore display--is a heavy cardboard piece that almost always breaks down and sags. BUT these were not designed to be around 50-60 years (much like the old cars we restore-they rot away). But I enjoy finding pictures of the old displays and if possible reverse engineer them into existence.

Originally Posted by Jagrick:

View of whole layout. In this view you can see how the lettering is off in size and the O and R are a little odd--will correct and size appropriately, other wise this display is done and will find a spot up in the "cave"

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Jagrick,

   I have no idea what the original text was like, but doesn't the "mark" before horn go between horn and whistle? I was thinking it may be a slash to separate the words?

 

 

 

 

I figured as much (the fix).

  I was a graphics major, and did a lot of display work. Way more fun than ads.

I've seen old space saving vinyl cutting programs move things to unusual places, and thought that's what I saw there.

 I also know a fresh set of eyes, can sometimes "see better" than the ones looking at it all day.

   Be glad there aren't thousands printed, and already on the way to the client.

 

 

Also getting the lettering up to size helps: I do this stuff late at night usually and when I should just go to bed so errors are made--computer makes them go away. A lot of hand work as well with making initial font style and then tweeking with software and generating mask, etc. Since I am only producing a few no need to gear up with silk screening as Lionel did, but results are virtually the same. Their ad department had there stuff together in how asthetic most of these items were and dynamic with changes every year--my problem now is I am running out of room!

As much as I loved SS, most often vinyl is the way to go today for sure.

You have to look close to see which it is most of the time..

 

I noticed those lamp bases too.

It got me thinking of a place called Grand Hardware, back when the name truly suited it.

Good luck finding things yourself there without a decade or two worth of visits under your belt .

 I.e. a "candy store" full of old sweet old hardware, hidden in drawers that might not get opened for years I think they "streamlined" the re-ordering with new owners

 Have I asked main the source of your knowledge?

If I did, I lost the info with my last hard drive

It might actually be in the "dealer" thread too

(thanks for your patience Chuck).

 

  A tip I overlooked for a bit, going from varnish, into paint.

Wiping wood with denatured alcohol, just before one final light sanding, will raise the grain, and help keep a more even texture when the wet paint hits it. Otherwise the paints wetness raises the grain as the "soak coat" goes on.

 The last sanding should be light with fresh paper, to only score & remove raised grain nib tips.

   If you don't already, give it a try.

If you use alkyd or oil base paints, try Penetrol.

An old school paint leveler that separates the pro from the "get er done"crowd.

I could brush good oil based and Penetrol, and have it looking like a white M&M shell

So interesting to see your passion on displays achieving such great results. Also enjoy the banter between you and "Adriatic", as you both obviously know what you're doing with graphics and the basics. So many of us have wonderful memories of display layouts that heralded Christmas as kids, but my guess is these alone would kindle 3 rail pleasure for a lot of kids when done right. Could be a huge biz for you, Rick, if you could get someone to help you market these treasures. I'll bet you don't have time for that part - only so many hours in a day. Keep it up and thanks to the man that got this thread started.

Originally Posted by Adriatic:
By profession I am a veterinarian (GP with interest in emergency medicine, surgery, ultrasound). But I grew up around industrial arts that my father taught at one time before moving up through the college until he was chairman of the technology dept. at Indiana State. As a kid I helped him build our first color TV from heath kit, knocked around the ham radio shack and spent saturday mornings in the IA area at SMS in Springfield MO, (they had a foundry in there as well as wood working, metal shop, electronics, etc: quite the experience.Dad always was (and still is) an artisan in his own right and has written several books on antique furniture (restoration, repair and identification and is a history buff as well. Over the years we have restored many items including horse drawn vehicles (sleighs, buggies and sulkies) as well as we have a man pulled fire engine that was built in 1884 sitting in one of my barns we restored!. FUN STUFF!!

 Have I asked main the source of your knowledge?

If I did, I lost the info with my last hard drive

It might actually be in the "dealer" thread too

(thanks for your patience Chuck).

 

  A tip I overlooked for a bit, going from varnish, into paint.

Wiping wood with denatured alcohol, just before one final light sanding, will raise the grain, and help keep a more even texture when the wet paint hits it. Otherwise the paints wetness raises the grain as the "soak coat" goes on.

 The last sanding should be light with fresh paper, to only score & remove raised grain nib tips.

   If you don't already, give it a try.

If you use alkyd or oil base paints, try Penetrol.

An old school paint leveler that separates the pro from the "get er done"crowd.

I could brush good oil based and Penetrol, and have it looking like a white M&M shell

 

A lot of info from seeing a few first hand and mining a lot of information (TCA library for dealer literature, examining photos of of displays, etc.) Their construction techniques were "of the day": plywood postwar, wood planks/boards prewar, with little imperfections abounding (I think they used photo retouching/artistic license a LOT). And since these are fairly rare I knew I would likely never be able to collect originals and stay married (although the wife does like the displays). Now over the years I have been lucky enough to add originals as well as recreate some items I wanted but knew would never show up, and the displays and service thing are the part of the prewar Lionel I enjoy most, while most of what I have is prewar Lionel Std and O gauge with Ives transition. I think the neatest piece I have done is a tie between the Lazy susan display (which I was chasing doen details on for 10+ years) and the ferris wheel (built from pictures form scratch). Hope to get some more things underway soon, as well as get some work done on my cars!!

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Sounds like fun stuff for sure. 

 I grew up  with similar artisan influences coming from my Grandparents.

  I had way too many allergies to for a life attending to animals though.

(one of these days I even learn not to pet the kitties ).

  My woodworking was perfected on boats. But I've saved a few runner sleds

Some Radio-flyers, Flexible flyers (one is a 5'), and an old 5' Sears sled.

 It fact my first sled stands upright with a giant bow, as part of a year round display on Mom's front porch. "A pile of gifts left untouched for generations".

 I waxed the metal up, especially before storage, and varnished it bi-yearly when I was a boy, but some paint did wear thin early on. It aged very well overall.

 The runners now sport a faux rust and weathered paint job, overtop of my 40 year old fire engine red. You could still grab it & use it. (Mom did the faux weathering!)

 

 I have two old brass "syringe type" extinguishers, and I've been waiting for a firehouse owning uncle to pick them up for years.

Let me know if you might have an interest in them.  

 

 Not really "antique" or refinished, but I do have some Herman Miller, & Atomic-Blonde goodies in my bedroom, and am slowly working on a jumbled Danish mod cabinet collection.

  I just lost a nice 50's Danish mod. recliner when a side frame suddenly split in two, letting lose a front leg,(& therefore "unlocking" everything, and dropping the mech. askew. The mech. sagged, and twisted under 250lbs of falling "Vernor' s Gnome"(my pal looks like him). The 180° flip out foot rest, no longer closed straight.

 Beautiful, natural, and ever so lightly oiled, I gave it a funeral by backyard fire .

 

I miss the Lionel repair station being on Gramps bench downstairs

 He didn't really use it often, he used a homemade one much more.

  But I was always fascinated with the "mad scientist" looks of the thing.

Partially it's the paint. I love than early industrial gunmetal paint look.

And if you show me something painted with Hammerite?

I'll buy it .  It hardly matters what it is .

 I even painted my Marx CV Hammerite till I figured out Rustoleum had the best chance at looking more original and with patina. (dried/cured it in my freezer for weeks The milky looks clears, gloss stays, but the "deep" look that says "new black" is gone)

 

  The shadow effect in the lit sign is really cool. It can be hard to keep that type of thing looking well detailed, & sharp.

  Lighting is another old "hobby" of mine.

   I was already a union wage theater lighting tech when I was only 16. The union opened a bunch of doors for me, but I couldn't afford to leave home to take advantage of the scholarships, so theatrical lighting stayed a hobby, despite family ties to the industry.

  The graphics opportunities were local, so I took to studying that professionally for a few years. Then I blinked . When I opened my eyes, another hobby was feeding me better (selling comics).

 I had wondered about your early experience, and certainly enjoy hearing about it, don't hold back.

 I think the TCA library was the answer I was looking for with the question.

  .

My online searches haven't revealed much at all, outside of Youtube.

  The other thread here, is actually the most dealer layout info I've seen in one spot. So I wondered if there was a book covering them.

But I guess you just haven't wrote it yet, lol .

 A checklist of the ones known, would be huge for me, as I'm interested in seeing all I can, before I truly decide on "the one".

 It will likely be a "Lazy Susan", but the disappearing train, and "city of tomorrow" wouldn't be awful either .

   A coup de grâce for layouts here, would be a good copy of the Gomez Addams layout.

It would give me "a room I could die in".(Brewster's Millions) (I see three or more actual layouts in the footage). I want the full view that's done in Super O. 

 

 

 

Thanks Chuck, labor of love I guess. Makes me wonder how many were just tossed or rotted away. We forget sometimes that these were really a disposable item made of light weight mayerials . Nice to save them and best of almost be able to share them with a generation that never got the chance to experience shopping in the department and seasonal toy stores. Thanks again for allowing me to purchase and your willingness to ship. Rick

Very cool work on the displays and nice collection of classic cars also evident. I wonder if there are archives of these displays with actual measurements online? I would love to duplicate one or 2 to use as displays in my train room (once I start to put it together!) in particular I like the look of the 1950 D40 display with it semaphore and the bold look of the D-133. I think I can make them pretty close by scaling the photos I have found on-line but if actual real dimensions are available that would be awesome.

 

Gerald

 

Some are measured and documented in Carp display book. The recent display magazine from CTT was nice but not in depth and no discussion on construction, wiring, etc. They even got some of the measurements wrong on their comments on pictures. That said, Lionel was very common sense on construction as they had to be as these were usually assembled (after the prototype which usually varies from the production piece) by short time employees. Another good reference in Osterhoff's CD on the postwar display paper work and post war advance dealer catalogs. I can get you the actual measurements of a lot of these with pictures of original as well as repros. The hardest part of the displays are the graphics and I spend many hours on recreating the actual fonts, designs as used by Lionel and these are not stock items for the most part. Fun stuff!

Rick,

Thanks for the comments and I will be sure to try picking your brain once I find time to start my first display. I have a very well equipped workshop including a CNC router table and vinyl cutting equipment for graphics so I should be able to knock out a decent enough job however my skill set is not gonna stretch to Neon work to duplicate your last photo which looks awesome. This would likely cast a very cool wash of color over a darkened train room creating a very nice atmosphere. Look forward to seeing that one completed. 

 

Gerald

 

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