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05485CED-BE25-4A82-99CE-81EBA142D8595477DA64-A733-4BD6-B585-9C5689A240C9E4862303-E4F2-4278-9960-A33CD18B33344E8C1D80-6639-4EAE-8442-D9B17C9E0AA93A8AEBC5-102F-40A5-BEF7-CFD25BF1901AC646F3A3-B022-40B0-BB71-FF3DE7130857Short story is it’s off of a Scalecraft K4 I am trading to Daniel. The tire was loose and I realized the insulation was very thick.  To fix, I made a spacer out of pvc pipe on my lathe. Loctited that to the center and turned the od down for the tire. I did need to touch the tire as I was .002 out but I can touch the rest to match. Will this be a solid repair? I only had thread loctite, was not 619 as I have seen suggested. The pvc seems to be a stable material. I only used it due to the thickness of the original insulator and I wanted to save the tire. Open to thoughts. Joe, if you see this, it is the one I emailed you about. Thanks 

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If it was a light press fit, I think you'll be fine. If you have to do it again I'd also add some cross tread groves to act as keyways (not 100% to the front edge). I'm just thinking of pvc's knack for sheading some adhesives. The locktite sticks to metal swell, so if PVC sheads the locktite, the locktite to metal grip should be enough to hold the "hardened locktite key" within the keyway firmly in place. Grooves should be at a 90' to face, a V, an X, or diamonds with points straight to run or axle, etc, etc, (can't "unscrew").
Dennis Holler posted:

E4862303-E4F2-4278-9960-A33CD18B3334Short story is it’s off of a Scalecraft K4 I am trading to Daniel. The tire was loose and I realized the insulation was very thick.  To fix, I made a spacer out of pvc pipe on my lathe. Loctited that to the center and turned the od down for the tire. I did need to touch the tire as I was .002 out but I can touch the rest to match. Will this be a solid repair? I only had thread loctite, was not 619 as I have seen suggested. The pvc seems to be a stable material. I only used it due to the thickness of the original insulator and I wanted to save the tire. Open to thoughts. Joe, if you see this, it is the one I emailed you about. Thanks 

Is that I Hardinge lathe? Collet type machines are the best, Many years ago I had the opportunity to learn on a Hardinge tooling lathe with all accessories.

I use paper or cardboard.  Joe uses fish paper, whatever that is.

All I know about Loctite and plastic is that, even with "type N" primer, shaft Loctite will not hold a NWSL gear.  Never tried PVC.  The cardboard is sized for a press fit, but not so tight that the pressing operation shears the cardboard.  Then I let the Loctite soak in overnight, and so far not a single failure.

I have not done anywhere near as many as joe, but I bet I have insulated maybe 40 drivers, counting those that just failed, as well as newly machined.

Dennis,

It the plastic holds up you should be good to go. Any insulating material that can be fitted between the driver tire and its center is OK as far as I am concerned.   Some modelers have use Mylar.   I like using the "fish paper".  The paper I use is 0.010" thick.  This makes an easy measurement to work with when fitting a new tire to a driver center.  Locitite 609 Retaining Compound adheres to fish paper.  I seldom have a new insulated driver tire slip in the final machining process.  I learned about this material many years ago from Ken Henry, a model maker who produced over 100 O scale steam locos in his lifetime.  I purchase the material from McMaster Carr on line.

If what you are doing works for you...great!  As has been said "There is more than one way to skin a cat."!

Joe

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