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Has anyone done a PS-2 conversion of a conventional plate frame steamer? In this regard I mean the 1970's era lionel 4-4-2?  I wanted to just change this engine from the old 2 position reverse unit to a modern electronic reverse unit circuit board.  After I finally got the thing working and put the shell back on I realized that the board was now sticking out from the shell and looked ridiculous.  Also there was no room to reinstall the trailing truck which included the drawbar for the tender.  I have come to the conclusion that in order to add a modern reverse unit to this engine I'll have to put it in the tender and run wires.  I was hoping to avoid this, but I've done it before.

This got me thinking, why not just go hog wild?  If I could shoe-horn in a can motor in place of the original motor then just maybe I could figure out how to have a flywheel and a pickup too...

 

Is what I'm talking about physically possible or am I just over-thinking everything.  Obviously getting the e-unit to work would be much cheaper, but If I could shoe horn in the components I would be pretty cool way to breather new life into a tired old engine.  Also I would then embark on changing the passenger car lights to LEDs so they wouldn't melt the car roofs at high voltage.

 

What do you'll think?

 

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I was considering a pittman motor for the replacement as it was always a little underpowered anyway - I just wasn't sure about finding a way to mount a flywheel for the tachometer.  I know its far fetched but sometimes these thing just pop up in the ol' brain-pan and need to be bounced off of others for a reality check.

 

What this project started out as was a simply e-unit upgrade.  It turned out that the modern e-unit doesn't fit where the old electro-mechanical on was out without being visible.  And actually the new one is a Dallee unit.  So is there a replacement e-unit circuit out there packaged as a drop in replacement for the actual dimensions of the original?

 

If I need to put it in the tender I might as well get a speaker and whistle package as the sound of steam system died a long time ago.  But then how do i handle the number of wires I would need to go between the engine and tender?  Since all this would need done that's why I was wondering about a ps-2 package (again if I could get the motor/flywheel problem tackled.)

Last edited by jhz563

Given that this is a $50-75 locomotive, I guess I'd be looking to just buy something with all of that installed.  It'll probably be less money, and it'll be a lot more likely to run well.  I suspect most folks will recommend against this upgrade unless there's a particular attachment to this specific locomotive.

 

The wires between engine and tender are a tether, I use MTH tethers, they're 10 pins and accommodate most things when I upgrade.

 

Do you run DCS now?  If not, why put PS/2 into it?

Do you run DCS now?  If not, why put PS/2 into it?

 

It was just a wild idea - I don't think its the least bit practical.  I do have some attachment to the engine as it has made several trips round the tree at Christmas time.  It was also one my Dad's favorites from my collection and he is no longer around to share with. 

 

Also I have several ps2 and on ps3 engine.  I just got a dcs system but have not had time to set it up yet.  I do use dcs at club functions.

 

Anyway I tried mounting the board so it slid down between the motor frame but it hits the motor before I have enough clearance to get the shell back on.  I'm open to ideas but it seems like I'll have to mount it in the tender and get some control wires to the motor mounted.  I've done this before on a formerly dc only engine and ended up with four wires, which look enough like hoses to me.  (two wires for power/ground pickup, tow wires to actually power the motor.)  No smoke unit on that loco and the light still runs off track power.  I like to make it simpler this time around but I don't want to go back to a mechanical reverse unit and I can't seem to get this board to fit. 

 

Originally Posted by gunrunnerjohn:

Well, I can tell you that wouldn't be my first thought!  Getting a DC motor in there will be a trick!  You need to match up the gears so it'll run at all.  Running a 4-pin tether from the tender sure sounds a lot easier to me.

The difference between us here is an easy one to figure out --

gunrunnerjohn = electrical and controls engineer

jhz563 = mechanical engineer

 

We all fall back onto our own strengths.

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