I haven't run across any of them in upgrades that were connected, that doesn't mean none are. I know that the CC-M doesn't have any output that would drive the flickering firebox, and I'd bet money and give odds that it never will.
Here are all the connections to the CC-M, no option that would possibly drive the firebox.
I make my own flickering firebox modules. 
I will contact Scott directly. I was not trying to poke or say anything negative about Scott and I apologize if it was perceived that way.
Now, back to the firebox issue.
I made a post a while back addressing my issues with the loss of the flickering firebox with the Cruise M. I was told to make one and given the links (thank you to all that provided that information). On the old driver board there is a 4 wire cluster (ribbon) that goes from the 10 pin to the firebox board. From what I can tell (I don't have the engine in front of me), pin 3 or 5 feed the center LED, pin 4 or 6 is the common ground for the LED board, pins 7 and 9 feed the outer LEDs. The center LED stays on and the other four would flicker. The board only consist of tracers, LEDs, and a plug. Currently, the four outer LEDs oscillate when the whistle is blown and the center stays solid. The only wiring change in regards to the addition of the Cruise M and the LED board is the removal of pin 10. To be clear, pin 10 did not go to the LED board.
As a bonus to the Cruise M, the green jewel lights are now AUX2 controlled with the headlight.
If you connect them to the ditch light output, that would be the expected operation. However, that's not how Lionel runs them.
gunrunnerjohn posted:If you connect them to the ditch light output, that would be the expected operation. However, that's not how Lionel runs them.
John,
I literally pulled pin 10 out of the 10 pin and plugged the 10 pin connector directly into the Cruise M. Why did they flicker before? There has to be some sort of different programing in the DCDS output compared to the Cruise M. If the LEDs were flickering LEDs they should flicker as long as there is current correct?
I just use the Evans Dedigns fire LED kits and put them in a black piece of sheet stock and mount it to the factory board mount then wire them directly to track power. They run off 7 to 19 volts, they’re always on when track powe is on but who cares, steam engines in the yard always keep the fire burning. It’s part of the CCM upgrade that you have to find work around a for some of this stuff. You won’t get the same functionality out of a universal board that you get out of loco specific factory boards with dedicated firmware. It’s part of model railroading
Sean, there's certainly different programming in the Odyssey DCDS than the CC-M, that much is certain! 
Alright, spoke with Scott today and got some clarity on things. Thanks again Scott!
Now onto the flickering firebox. Does anyone know what the output voltage is for LEDs I’m the 10 pin? I spoke with Evans Designs and I am going to attempt a 5 bulb set up using the spare LED board I have and let Evans Designs help me put a bulb kit together.
Did the original poster figure out his issue or what he plans to to?
The output from the ditch light output on the CC-M is a current limited supply for one 20ma LED, it drives the LED directly.
That 20ma rating may kill my idea. Is it 3v or 5v?
It's current limited, I know it drives a white LED fine, so it's capable of driving white or colored LED's. However, I have no idea what it'll do in your scenario.
K4s-RRA posted:In almost all cases Lionel connected the flickering firebox board to track voltage. I have seen one case where Lionel used a different board and connected it to a point on the command board...a lower volatile output. None of the CC-M outputs are set for on/off or control of the flickering firebox.
There are several similar operation (but appear different) implementations by Lionel over the years especially for their early command boards. As such it is difficult to provide a DIY document that addresses all possible cases. SPFord27, I hope this helps.
There are Lionel Steam engines that used the DCDS 10 pin outputs for marker and/or Fire box LEDs. Whether it is a feature that can be turned on or off, I do not know. But as stated the CCM does not have that.
Lionel did have a lot of variations to Firebox.
I'm not 100% sure what the final fix was, but my radio board was indeed DOA when Gunrunner John received it. He also replaced the smoke unit AC regulator board as it was bad as well. I'm extremely happy with how this engine performs now. The improvement in low speed running is pretty significant. It's still not quite at the level of a Legacy engine, but as close as one can get. The smoke unit fills the room now as well. John did a great job with it!
Glad you got it sorted out. It makes a huge difference in the operation of that engine! What headlight are you using? I am still using the stock bulb and it’s not that bright. What is the car behind the tender?
SPFord27 posted:Glad you got it sorted out. It makes a huge difference in the operation of that engine! What headlight are you using? I am still using the stock bulb and it’s not that bright. What is the car behind the tender?
The headlight is a warm white LED powered by one of Gunrunner John’s products (can’t remember which one at the moment). It certainly makes a big difference.
The car behind the tender is an older MTH N&W Express reefer. A friend of mine snatched it up at the LHS when the owner took in a collection. It’s a beautiful car, but not easy to find from what I’ve heard. It’s not a perfect match for the Lionel paint, but looks close enough when going around the track.
It has the Super-Chuffer, the major problem with the smoke was the voltage regulator. The R2LC was not only totally dead, but it was the C12 version, which is for one of the accessories, I think possibly the Backshop. I put the proper C13 R2LC into it, and all was well.
I do like the J Class, every time I get one in for repairs or upgrades, I think about getting one. Of course, then I'll need a set of passenger cars, etc.
WHAT, You don't have a J. Shame on you
GGG posted:WHAT, You don't have a J. Shame on you
I "almost" bought one recently, but then I figured I'd have to have the extra tender, a full set of passenger cars, etc. I decided that staring at several thousand dollars of track I need to buy that I'd just put that on the back burner for now.
SantaFe158 posted:SPFord27 posted:Glad you got it sorted out. It makes a huge difference in the operation of that engine! What headlight are you using? I am still using the stock bulb and it’s not that bright. What is the car behind the tender?
The headlight is a warm white LED powered by one of Gunrunner John’s products (can’t remember which one at the moment). It certainly makes a big difference.
The car behind the tender is an older MTH N&W Express reefer. A friend of mine snatched it up at the LHS when the owner took in a collection. It’s a beautiful car, but not easy to find from what I’ve heard. It’s not a perfect match for the Lionel paint, but looks close enough when going around the track.
I picked up the MTH aux tender and the 2015 (I think) release of the heavyweights for mine. Found the two REA boxcars the other day, picked up the combo and diner car add on pack along with the mail car. Eventually I want to get the add on coach and baggage car pack, but now I need to add the reefer to the list thanks to your video!
SPFord27 posted:I picked up the MTH aux tender and the 2015 (I think) release of the heavyweights for mine. Found the two REA boxcars the other day, picked up the combo and diner car add on pack along with the mail car. Eventually I want to get the add on coach and baggage car pack, but now I need to add the reefer to the list thanks to your video!
The reefer is really a great car. I've got the Lionel N&W Aux tender (no stripe), but only run that typically if I pull a freight train with the J or a mix of passenger cars simulating the modern era excursion trains.
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