Fastening track update (with pics)

Ralph,

I use Homasote for roadbed.  I had a mill shop cut the 4' by 8' sheet into 2 1/4" by 4' strips.  For curves, I make cuts to within 5/8" of the opposite side with my jigsaw at a 45 degree angle every 1" to allow the Homasote to curve.   Then I nail it down with 1" paneling nails. Then I sand the surface lightly with coarse emory cloth on a sanding block.  Time to vacuum the dust. I also paint the Homasote a brown to resemble earth.  After it dries, I sand it again to remove any roughness created by the paint. Time to vacuum again.  I lay the track and secure it with #19 by 5/8" brads through the holes in the ties.  The brad will disappear into the tie.  On occasion, it will not.  Then I use a nail set to gently nudge it down.  A #54 drill bit will make additional holes which are needed to lay the curves. 

Hope this helps.

Ed

We use brads as well and they disappear aftet the track has been painted, weathered, and ballasted. Never even know they are there.

Me too.  I handlay about half, but the flex track really needs those brads.  I have heard that if you drive the nails too hard you can change the gauge.  Dunno.

 

The flex track is quieter than the handlaid by a bunch!  Early Atlas can shrink out of gauge.

 

Boy, has that stuff gotten expensive!

Ralph,

There have been numerous tracklaying articles using latex adhesive caulk.  The track is held in place with push-pins until the caulk dries...might be worth a test on your vinyl roadbed...also, check with the roadbed manufacturer for their recommendation.

I never nail flex track. I contain it's position with the use of ballast and the adhesive which holds that medium. Atlas flex track also needs to be temporarily positioned prior to the gluing the ballast and T pins can be used for that purpose especially on curves.

 

However I see the method such as Ed Kelly described as very acceptable as well. Especially getting someone else to mill the Homosote...dustyyyy stuff.

 

Bob

If anything can be done in a more perfect way Ed K's fin ished product is a fine example. 

I used brads on my layout to fasten the track to the homosote (they also serve to fill those holes!). I don't ballast my track the first year after laying it.  With a large expanse of benchwork (2400' of track) I've found seasonal change can require minor adjustments to the track - much harder to do once the track and ballast is glued down. For  best holding power and appearance I prefer brads with a slightly tapered head so they "swedge" flush into the ties strip without downward distortion when pushed home .  However tapered head brads are getting hard to find.  The Chinese brads I've found lately don't have tapered heads like the US made ones I started the railroad with.  With step head Chinese brads I countersink the hole in the plastic tie strip with two twists of a hand drill.  

 

After painting and weathering the brad heads virtually disappear. 

 

Ed Rappe

 

 

Those using brads hopefully have them long enough to go through Homasote and into the solid substrate. We have found short brads that only go into Homasote will eventually work their way up, to a hazardous result with passing trains.

 

We do use brads to position the track, the once the ballast is installed and glued in place the brads are removed. The track does not move with even high traffic on it. Seasonal movement is then more or less matched between the substrate, roadbed and track.

After being ballasted, it seems unlikely that the ties will wander too far.  The rail however can even when handlaying and spiking the rail down 4 spikes per tie.  I have 1 curve that has a malevolent attitude towards staying in gauge.

 

Martin,

Cut gaps in the rail so it can slide rather than move in and out of gauge.

 

Others,

I have had some track down for 6 or 7 or more years and have never had a brad raise its head.  The Homasote holds well, at least, for me.  Also, I put carpenter's glue between the plastic ties on curves to hold the geometry of the ties.  If it is hidden track, I use a lot of glue.  If it is meant to be ballasted later, I use just enough to fix the position of the plastic ties and still leave room for ballast on top.  One more step that I left out in my first reply.  I plane the Homasote to 7/16" thickness to avoid the problem of the varying thickness of the Homasote.

tt,

Thanks for the compliment.  

Ed

As with both Eds I use Atlas track nails (black head on the nail) to hold flex track

in place for a couple years before ballasting.  I usually remove the nails after

ballasting to improve the look.  

Jim,

I think Ed R and I use the same #19 brad and not Atlas nails.  I leave my brads in and I think Ed R does also.  The head of the brad disappears after painting the track.  

I do not deliberately leave my track unballasted for years.  It just works out that way.  I do put the glue between the ties on the curves as soon as possible after laying the track.  Generally, not more than a day or two elapses before I do it.

Ed 

P.S.:  Ed R gave me the tip on using #19 brads years ago.  Thanks again Ed R.

There are gaps there!  I specifically left gaps in to account for expansion and this only takes place on one curve over a very short distance (actually very near a gap...) and routinely whenever guests are present. 

Thanks for all the input guys. My biggest concern is elevating my curves. If I use the N scale cork there is a decent void under the nail hole. I just have to watch that I don't push the nail in to far andbend the tie resulting in the track getting out of gauge.

 

Ed. Your method sounds great. I have the means of cutting homasote at work (cabinetmaker) so that is something I will consider. I just have a bunch of this vinyl bed. I guess I could just sell it.

 

Also I will talk to the makers of the vinyl bed. Good idea Old Goat.

 

Thanks again,

 

Ralph

Ralph,

I superelevate my mainline curves but only 1/16".  I put in the brad only part way and I slip 1/16" square stripwood under the end of the ties during the fully curved portion of the curve.  I insert 1/4" square layers of poster board under the ends of the ties on either side of the fully superelevated track to taper off the superelevaton during the easement into and out of the curve.  The number of layers increases up to 1/16" thick going into the superelevation and decreases coming out on the other side.

It is easier to do than explain.

Good luck.

Ed

Well I finally got a chance to lay some track and I just wanted to say thanks for all the replies. I have really nice flat head wood screws I got from Dave Heikle a while back when I was going to do the 3rail thing.

 

I took Ed Kelly's advice about only elevating my mainline curves a 1/16". I decided to try the N scale cork route and it worked pretty well. I layed out the angle of the track to find what degree the track would sit at with 1/16" under the outside rail so I could bevel the cork so the track wouldn't be sitt on just the corner of the cork.

 

I beveled the cork at 2 degrees which is what I found with laying it out. I set my saw for 2 degrees and used double stick tape to hold it on a piece of wood to be able to run it through the saw. I did the same thing with the begining of the turn, except the piece of wood was cut on a angle from 0-1/8 over the 36" length of the cork and the saw was still beveled at 2 degrees. I lost the first few 6" of the cork but it left me with a 30" lead into the turn. I don't have pics of all my jigs, I'll have to get some posted.

 

But I do have pics of the track. Hope to get further soon.

 

Ralph

 

I almost forgot. I recently had a local machinst who does stuff for us from time to time at our shop make me track gauges so I can lay some by hand and build my switches. They're really nice and solid brass. He did a great job. Just might get him to do a few other things.

 

Ralph

 

 

Very nice.  Like the gauges also. 

love the super elevation