fastrack and my #38, a no go

Not familiar with a #38, but is there any way to solder a piece of copper or brass to the pickup shoe?

that would be a possibility ,not sure on soldering on that shoe,but gives me something to think about,,thanks !!!( the 38 is the smaller of the prewar electics ,,its like a 42 left in the dryer too long and it shrunk ,same basic motor setup)

If you're hesitant to use solder, try an electrically conductive adhesive. Premabond makes one.

Adding thickness to the sliding shoe would be what I would try. The way the sliding shoe assembly is constructed you could add more insulators between the frame bracket and shoe, but I would try suggestion of soldering a piece of metal to the shoe.

thanks for all the help,,,i think I will explore adding to it,and the premabond  idea sounds like a plan,,i have a number of prewar flyer o that all used sliding shoes will look at that !

where would the best place to find that premabond at?ty

I had a similar problem. I used a piece of brass and made it wrap around the front and rear of the slider. Worked great, easy to undo.

Steve

Personally, I'd consider solder before trying conductive adhesives.  Unless you invest in the very high cost silver bearing products, the resistance may be more than can be tolerated.

A simple chunk of brass with a slight bow soldered to the slider should do the trick fine.

yunz guys are the best,,,,,will scope out some cooper or a tuna can !!!

No tuna Terry, fish don't conduct electricity well enough!

Besides, tuna cans are tin plated steel, not brass.

I'd replace the track. I have been thinking about this myself. I noticed how noisy my Fastrack O and my MTH STD plastic track are. My theory is that the rail profile is too short and the wheel flanges are actually running on the roadbed. That is probably what you are seeing Terry. The flanges are lifting the train and the shoe off the track. That might also mean that you are getting power to the wheels through the side of the flange instead of the flat of the wheel. I can't imagine that that improves the performance of the trains. 

George

I have some o gauge tinplate made by Richart. Flanges are deep and the train runs on the ties, not on the Fast Track rails. Could be your problem.

still pondering the track issue,,,what I find strange is the #42's I have run just great on it,,,,but it is what it is,,,,with all this fine help from you guys,gives me a lot to consider ! but wouldn't buy just any ol tube track,,,usa track, by a very fine sgma member !!!!

went down to the mad scientist bench,,,,grabed a piece of solid strand bell wire ,stripped it and crudly wrapped it around the shoe,,,,it flew down the fastrack,,

It’s nice that it runs, but I hear it hitting every molded tie. Not sure what that means for long term wear, but I don’t think the STD Fastrack rails are tall enough for these older trains.

George

George S posted:

It’s nice that it runs, but I hear it hitting every molded tie. Not sure what that means for long term wear, but I don’t think the STD Fastrack rails are tall enough for these older trains.

George

over the weekend will cost out the replacement of the upper level to usa track,,,so from tube to fastrack to tube,,but this time will be the best tube in the world !!!

George S posted:

It’s nice that it runs, but I hear it hitting every molded tie. Not sure what that means for long term wear, but I don’t think the STD Fastrack rails are tall enough for these older trains.

George

took the plunge,,,,ordered usa track for the upper level,,,i had all mth tube track before,,,,this will put that stuff to shame !.a repair friend came up with an interesting view of my problem,,,,when I told him of the  fastrack v the tube track he said ,,just think the middle rail on tube track is abit hight than fastrack because of the middle rail insulator boom !!!!! will pickup my track at York,,,cant wait 

terry hudon posted:

George S posted:

It’s nice that it runs, but I hear it hitting every molded tie. Not sure what that means for long term wear, but I don’t think the STD Fastrack rails are tall enough for these older trains.

George

took the plunge,,,,ordered usa track for the upper level,,,i had all mth tube track before,,,,this will put that stuff to shame !.a repair friend came up with an interesting view of my problem,,,,when I told him of the  fastrack v the tube track he said ,,just think the middle rail on tube track is abit hight than fastrack because of the middle rail insulator boom !!!!! will pickup my track at York,,,cant wait 

did a price check on usa v  mth almost the same and the usa is made in ,you guessed it usa ! by sgma member !

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Personally, I'd consider solder before trying conductive adhesives.  Unless you invest in the very high cost silver bearing products, the resistance may be more than can be tolerated.

A simple chunk of brass with a slight bow soldered to the slider should do the trick fine.

Agree on both items.

Note that silver adhesive is epoxy resin based and the heat from the pickup would probably cause early failure.

Have used both silver and gold adhesives in medical implants and you are quite right:  expensive.  Also they are best used in the hands of a skilled technician. They are miserable to work with.

Lou N

terry hudon posted:

George S posted:

It’s nice that it runs, but I hear it hitting every molded tie. Not sure what that means for long term wear, but I don’t think the STD Fastrack rails are tall enough for these older trains.

George

took the plunge,,,,ordered usa track for the upper level,,,i had all mth tube track before,,,,this will put that stuff to shame !.a repair friend came up with an interesting view of my problem,,,,when I told him of the  fastrack v the tube track he said ,,just think the middle rail on tube track is abit hight than fastrack because of the middle rail insulator boom !!!!! will pickup my track at York,,,cant wait 

This is helpful Terry. As I build my permanent layout, I’ll switch to USA Track. I’ll save the Fastrack for the Christmas tree temporary layout.

Also, I’ll be getting Ross tinplate STD switches that were tested and approved by SGMA.

George