Fastrack Switch Conversion to Command Operation

Excellent upgrade John!!!!!!

Alex

Thanks Alex, and it was dirt simple.  I like it when a plan comes together.

nice job john it makes me think twice before I purchase a command switch I see people all the time selling there old non command switches cheap for new command ones I will take a look at these if I need switches and just convert them

Thanks John. I have one remote switch on my layout that is not command and I was about to buy a new command switch to replace it...now I don't have to!  Thanks for the Christmas gift.

ed

Thanks for posting this John. I had seen it on the ERR site but hadn't yet pulled the trigger.

I have 4 036 Remote Fastrack switches that will soon get worked over.

I currently have several command switches.  Lately one of my switches (that had been working fine) would not alloy me to switch it via my remote.  It would make the switch but then go back to the original direction it was (It would switch but on its own go back).  What do you think is going on?  A bad CC switch?

gunrunnerjohn posted:

I was thinking of replacing a couple of my switches that are not command equipped with new command switches. After looking at how little used switches are going for and the hit that I'd take on them, I thought twice. Then I spotted the ERR Switch Commander. This $24.95 kit will convert a remote control Fastrack switch into a command model. The install is a piece of cake, and it works just like the factory command switches.

Here's the manual.

ERR Switch Commander Installation Manual

This is what the ERR board looks like, you install this into an existing slot in the base of the Fastrack switch.

You plug in a connector, splice one wire, and drill a 1/8" hole to mount the switch. Put the back on the switch and you have a command switch in about 15 minutes! I think the hardest part is taking all the screws out to remove the bottom plate, then putting them all back in!

Here's the upgraded switch. The only difference between this and the factory switch is they used a green button for the PGM button. I'll take it.  A nice quick way to have command switches without the hassle of trying to dispose of the old ones and buy new.

John, I just upgraded a manual switch as you described. Worked like a charm and but for drilling a hole...eazy peezy!  Thanks.,

Ed

The large toggle is the switch needed to be drilled?

I would also add if you do this mod, while uninstalled, add a tail to the switch to connect the STM module when it arrives. It might save you a head ache later. 

Guns,

   Great find, when I am given a few FT regular switches, I will definitely keep this in mind, also can I insert this into my 072 FTCC Switch that went bad, rather than purchase a new one?

PCRR/Dave

Dave, this board is NOT for a command switch, that is specifically spelled out in the instructions.

Marty, the "large toggle" is a 1 3/8" piece of track that I've added a switch to for siding power.  The hole you drill is at the other end of the switch, you install the push button for the programming there.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

Dave, this board is NOT for a command switch, that is specifically spelled out in the instructions.

Marty, the "large toggle" is a 1 3/8" piece of track that I've added a switch to for siding power.  The hole you drill is at the other end of the switch, you install the push button for the programming there.

Ahh. I see. I didn't think it was as I know how you work but thought I'd ask. 

That little button is mostly invisible, blends in better than the black stock one that Lionel uses on original production.

gunrunnerjohn posted:

That little button is mostly invisible, blends in better than the black stock one that Lionel uses on original production.

Well I obviously didn't see it. 

Guns,

    Bummer, Bummer Bummer!   Thought I had just found an easy way to fix the Command Control FT switch that failed!

PCRR/Dave

MartyE posted:

The large toggle is the switch needed to be drilled?

I would also add if you do this mod, while uninstalled, add a tail to the switch to connect the STM module when it arrives. It might save you a head ache later. 

Not sure I understand.  Add a tail where and why would it be necessary?

ToledoEd posted:

MartyE posted:

The large toggle is the switch needed to be drilled?

I would also add if you do this mod, while uninstalled, add a tail to the switch to connect the STM module when it arrives. It might save you a head ache later. 

Not sure I understand.  Add a tail where and why would it be necessary?

 

The STM module needs feedback from the switch to display correctly on the LCS app. If you want the ability to see the correct switch position you'll want that connection. If you bring a tail out now while you modify the switch, you won't have to pull it up later to add the STM feedback wire. 

See here!  

If you know where your STM (not released yet) will mount you could run a wire all the way to that spot. 

Ahh, I see. Thanks.  

After reading this thread, I decided to give it a try.  I ordered 2 modules.

I followed the instructions for the first one, so installation took about 20 minutes.  The instructions are so simple that I didn't really need them for the second switch.  That took maybe 10 minutes.  The most difficult part of the installation was getting all the wires back inside the switch without pinching anything - that's it.

I just ordered 6 more to bring all my remaining FT switches up to CC.

Thanks GRJ

Pretty cool mod, and as you say, easy as pie.

As a result of reading GUNRUNNERJOHN's thread, I just completed my first ERR Switch Commander Installation a few minutes ago.  I now have an addition Command Control O-60 switch. The installation was extremely easy (even for me) and was completed in less than 15 minutes literally.  I tested everything before buttoning it back up, (BTW, I also did the Gunrunner John Up-Grade as well) and it's on to the next one.  If you own any Lionel Fastrack Switches that can be up graded, I highly recommend the ERR Switch Commander.  This thing really works the way they say it does.

Chief Bob (Retired)

By "upgrade", I'm guessing you mean soldering the tabs for all the internal track connections?  Whenever I have occasion to open a switch, I do that.

Thanks John,  Good info! (and a new project slated for a future date.)

I run most of my sidings with the switch connections in parallel.  ie. when a train leaves the siding, the switches at both ends of the siding change. Do you think that this board can be installed in just one, and the other switch just paralleled using the wiring I have in place now?

Ed

Just to provide clarity for other readers....this board does not make a manual switch into a remote one.  The switch you're changing must already be a remote switch.  Not criticizing, just clarifying...

Ed, you can have 2, or more, switches with the same id # and they will fire together.  It works well for crossovers and, probably, your situation.

eddiem posted:

Thanks John,  Good info! (and a new project slated for a future date.)

I run most of my sidings with the switch connections in parallel.  ie. when a train leaves the siding, the switches at both ends of the siding change. Do you think that this board can be installed in just one, and the other switch just paralleled using the wiring I have in place now?

I doubt the electronics actually set signals to the switch controller pins to do what you're talking about.  However, I haven't actually tried it, so if I were you, I'd wire them up and see what happens.  Personally, I'd install it in every switch.  I have two switches on a crossover that have the same TMCC address as they always get triggered together, they work fine and both switch together.

Is it possible to use this item with MTH switches?

Thanks,

Steve

gunrunnerjohn posted:

By "upgrade", I'm guessing you mean soldering the tabs for all the internal track connections?  Whenever I have occasion to open a switch, I do that.

Yes sir, That is absolutely correct!  As you have stated, as long as I'm opening the switch to do the Switch Command Up-Grade I may as well solder the Internal Track Connection Tabs as well.  Thanks again John.

Chief Bob (Retired)

Great topic, thanks for the posting, was not aware of the product. 

Just order some to test out.

Thanks again!

Source for these ERR switch commanders?

RideTheRails posted:

Is it possible to use this item with MTH switches?

These are specifically designed to interface with Remote Fastrack Switches, no other environment is supported.

nmtrains posted:

Source for these ERR switch commanders?

www.electricrr.com

Thanks so much John! (R ya snowed in?)

I'm snowed in right now, but I'll be going out in a few minutes and using my snowblower to remedy that situation.

I'm new to fast track and its remote switches.   I have several remote switches that are far from where my "operating station" (transformer Z) is.  I was spicing in longer wires to allow me to put the lever next to the old Z transformer.  I'm not sure I understand how this mod works and what equipment is required to operate these switches.  Can you guys help me out?  Thanks.

Splicing works fine. I usually leave the factory wire on the controller because it is more difficult to rewire. Run that to a terminal strip and match colors to the switch. You can also run AC power to the switch and remove the jumper, or leave it and use track power. I have 4 wire phone cable that has the same colors to make it easy. GBRY with B being ground gets you oriented at the switch, either left to right or reverse, depending on turnout direction.

The Fastrack TMCC conversion makes your standard remote Fastrack switch into a Command Fastrack switch.  After you install this upgrade, you can control the switches from your TMCC or Legacy remote without any external controller wired.

At the expense of revealing my lack of knowledge on this,  What is a TMCC?  

Strick posted:

At the expense of revealing my lack of knowledge on this,  What is a TMCC?  

If you have to ask, this mod is probably not for you.   For your reading enjoyment.

Introduction to Command Control

Gentlemen,

   What Guns is teaching everyone here is great stuff, if you already own FasTrack switches this ERR upgrade for an additional $24.95 a switch, saves you a bunch of money, even on sale the new Command Control Switches are above $80.00 min each, plus shipping, depending on the individual business you are purchasing from.   I only wish I could use the ERR in one of my failed FTCC Switches also.  Now if you can pick up a Conventional FasTrack Switch for minimal money 2nd hand, you can actually keep the cost for your remote control FasTrack switches under $50.00.  If somebody is giving you the old switch, you get each ERR controlled FasTrack Switch for under $30.00.  Now that is a fantastic way to add low voltage remote control switches to your FasTrack layout.  I am now kicking myself for selling all my old FasTrack Conventional Switches.

Great job Guns!

PCRR/Dave

These are a great deal. I have 4 remote switches on our home layout that could do with upgrading.

I bought two CC switches on my last US trip to use on our modular layout and they work great. However the idea of buying 4 more to replace my existing ones would not have got past management cost approval!

I do have a ASC I have never got round to installing. Think I'll sell it and go with the ERR upgrade boards.

Nick

gunrunnerjohn posted:

eddiem posted:

Thanks John,  Good info! (and a new project slated for a future date.)

I run most of my sidings with the switch connections in parallel.  ie. when a train leaves the siding, the switches at both ends of the siding change. Do you think that this board can be installed in just one, and the other switch just paralleled using the wiring I have in place now?

I doubt the electronics actually set signals to the switch controller pins to do what you're talking about.  However, I haven't actually tried it, so if I were you, I'd wire them up and see what happens.  Personally, I'd install it in every switch.  I have two switches on a crossover that have the same TMCC address as they always get triggered together, they work fine and both switch together.

Right now I have all remote control but not tmcc switches.  A pair of switches that connect to the in and out of a siding are wired (thru1->thru2->wired remote control),  and (out1->out2->the same wired remote control.)

When I click the remote control lever, both switch move to the same position, out or thru.  When a train makes the anti-derail feature move one switch, the other switch at the other end of the siding moves too.

The reason I am interested in whether they would work in tandem with a single TMCC switch is because 1) on my layout they always switch together anyway, 2) each pair with a single TMCC remote kit saves $25 by not installing on both...I have 26 switches on my layout, almost all are paired, so savings would be over $300!

I read the tmcc controlled switch instructions and they don't say if they can be connected in parallel, so I'm still trying to determine this.  At this point I have no TMCC switches to try it with.

Anyone have a TMCC switch parallel-connected to a wired remote switch?????  Inquiring minds (mine) want to know...

Ed