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Well I've been slowly and surely (mostly slowly) making progress on this build. Here is an unfortunate phone camera shot of some of the parts I've been working on.

 

tbox-60f-800

 

 

I've just finished one car side. I have the two end panels with ribs done. At the bottom of the frame I have one of the side sills partially done. I need to add extensions onto the ends to reach the full length of the car. I would have preferred to use one piece of course, but I wanted to use .005" styrene sheet for this piece and Evergreen only sells 6" x 12" sheets. The overall car length is a bit over 15". Not visible in this photo is the bend I formed in the bottom of the sill to mimic the prototype. The bend also helps to prevent deflection in the side sill, just like the real thing. I have given thought to using brass for this piece and may try that in the future. The top piece is a sheet of .010" styrene which I am using for the car side. It's laminated to a .060" backing sheet. I'm using these thin sheets of styrene to get prototypical thicknesses in areas where the end of the steel sheet is visible on the real car, like on the car ends, or the edge at the notch in the side sill. The opening in the middle of the sheet is where a resin casting (hopefully) of the plug doors will go.

 

I'm moving pretty slowly on this build, but then I'm really not in a hurry. It's my first scratchbuild of any type. I'm putting a lot of thought into what materials to use, and how to implement them, before I cut or glue anything. In short, trying to thoughtfully engineer the build. I'm enjoying this problem-solving aspect and it might even be keeping my brain healthy.

 

The whole project has been a great opportunity to learn and explore materials and methods. I'm in the early learning stages, currently working on the easiest parts of the car. The car roof, underframe, and details will be more of a challenge. I'm hoping and planning on trying resin casting for the roof and some of the detail parts. Yet another new skill. And way down the road, I'm going to need to figure out how to paint and decal the car. The best part of all of this is that I can adapt anything I learn here to future builds. And I'm sure each subsequent attempt will go more quickly and smoothly than the preceding one.

 

By the way, a background in drafting has been a real benefit. I've used autocad to translate the car from actual prototype dimensions to the closest approximation in available styrene parts. And all the tools from the old days of hand drafting come in quite handing for laying out and assembling parts. I do need to break out my old board with parallel bar to make things even easier.

 

I'll try to post more results as I move along with the project. Ideally, consisting of pictures taken with a better camera. So stay tuned.
Jim

P.S. Oh yeah. I guess I should include of a photo of what I'm shooting for.

 

20111106141507[30)-800

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Jim, great start!  I too am working on my first scratchbuild.  I agree that it is a great opportunity to learn some new skills, and its fun.  I will be watching this with great interest, as this was on my list to scratchbuild  as well.  Btw is that a trinity 60 ft highcube, Gunderson, or another manufacturer?  I have been researching modern boxcars for the last few weeks, trying to come up with some plans to build something other than an acf 50 ft car, Which is offered by everyone.  Good luck, and have fun!

 

paul

 

btw you may be able to order some spare doors from mth, used on their 50ft highcubes

 

Thanks to everybody for the comments.  Hopefully I will have more to show on this project sooner rather than later.

 

Paul, the car I am modeling is the Gunderson car, now manufactured by Greenbrier, with the wide third rib on the side.  If you go to the Greenbrier site, you can navigate around to their various cars.  Each car includes a "technical bulletin" which you can open.  At the bottom of that bulletin is a scale technical drawing of the car be promoted.  The bulletin also includes specifications like length and width of the car.  The drawing is pretty handy.  It would be nice if they included a section through the car, but I suppose they aren't really trying to show us all how to build it.

 

The nice thing about this car is that there are many similar variations.  The basic box is the same, but the details are slightly different.  Roof panel types.  Whether the sides have a rib at the end.  Whether the side ribs have continuous flashing at their top end, or no flashing and sealed tops.  Whether the car uses grabs or ladders at the end.  Most cars without an end rib must use ladders as there isn't anything to attach the grab to.  Also jacking pads and sill notch configurations.

 

Check out the various aspects of the site http://www.railroadcarhistory.com/ for all kinds of information, excluding scale drawings unfortunately, on all kinds of freight cars.  I've bought books from this site.  A lot of pictures that detail the sometimes subtle differences between cars that would appear to be made by the same manufacturer.

 

Btw, I can't use the MTH door for this project as it is a 10'-0" door.  These cars, in fact all of the TBOX 60' cars, have pairs of 8'-0" doors for a total open of 16'-0".

 

Jim

 

P.S. Railbox has very similar cars made by National Steel Car in Canada.  They can be found in higher number series, say 665*** or similar.  One easy spotting feature is the door jamb on the NSC cars have a slanting edge, so the jamb is narrower at the top than the bottom.  They also don't have the wide side rib.  But the point is that with a few additional changes, a completely different car could be modeled accurately.  The very popular and attractive red CPR boxcars with the beaver logo are this type of car.  On the list of things to do! 

Originally Posted by falconservice:

It would be hard to start building that Box Car without detailed plans, because the exterior posts have to look right.

 

Andrew

Andrew,

One of the biggest hangups for me with building a car or anything for that matter was having accurate and detailed information to work from.  For this car, I have a lot of detail photos I have taken myself, plus many more photos gleaned from the various web photo archives.  I also have the line drawing from the Greenbrier website as referenced above.  Enough information to build from.  The only problem area is the underframe.  There aren't too many photos of this part of the car.  I managed to find a photo of one of these cars derailed and on its side.  That photo will help me when building that part of the car.

 

Fortunately these cars are essentially everywhere.  And locally, there are several locations where I can find them parked on sidings to get safe access and proximity to take photos.

 

Jim

Originally Posted by phill:

Nice scratch build, are you both building your doors or are they parts available.

Phill,

I will end up building the doors.  If I can get a good master built, I will resin cast multiple copies for future models.  I was considering trying to scavenge the plug doors off the Atlas Berwick hy-cube car.  But upon review, they are a bit heavy in their detail, and a bit simplified for what I am looking for.  The same goes for the X panel roof.  So I'm going to try to make masters of both the roof panels and the doors.

 

Jim

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