First Standard Gauge Project

... very cool...👍

Mark in Oregon

A great find. The grey paint on the cab mounting screw and the black paint on the coupler suggest an amateur attempt of repaint, so whether you keep the existing paint job or strip repaint again is up to you. I'd replace the wheels and not try to get any more mileage out those zinc-pest damaged wheels. Rewiring should be straight forward. The existing wiring has to go, but the connections are probably correct, so replacing wiring should be pretty straight forward. Treat yourself to all brand-new shiny fasteners and ditch all that rusty stuff. As for the broken pickup plate, wheels, any missing trim, paint etc. I'd recommend Henning's trains and Jeff Kane at Train Tender. Standard Gauge can be addictive. You already mentioned pre-war, so you probably know. I hope you'll be looking for some 500 series freight cars to pull with that #10 soon.

I plan to strip and repaint although I'm not sure which color would be closest to 'authentic' given I've seen this model in various colors on the web.  The color under the gray appears to be tan but there are streaks of tan on the bottom edge of the cab suggesting that the tan might also have been a repaint.  I'm leaning toward repainting with tan, light olive or pea green.  Thoughts?

Sounds like the original color may have been "Mojave" which would be the "tan" color you're seeing. Again, Henning's has the paint you need to make an accurate color restore if that's the avenue you want to take. I have a #10E in original "peacock" green, and two more #10s in bad repaint that need some TLC.

@CJ Meyers posted:

"Sounds like the original color may have been "Mojave" which would be the "tan" color you're seeing. Again, Henning's has the paint you need to make an accurate color restore if that's the avenue you want to take. I have a #10E in original "peacock" green..."

... can we see it? 🙂

Mark in Oregon

Here's my line-up. The red and brown one need some work before they're road worthy again.

Those are all really nice; thank you for posting. Is there a more common color scheme among these models?

Mark in Oregon

@Joe Elliott posted:

I plan to strip and repaint although I'm not sure which color would be closest to 'authentic' given I've seen this model in various colors on the web.  The color under the gray appears to be tan but there are streaks of tan on the bottom edge of the cab suggesting that the tan might also have been a repaint.  I'm leaning toward repainting with tan, light olive or pea green.  Thoughts?

If I may "piggyback" onto this: I just today negotiated a deal on a "10", which is also in need of a serious repaint:

(eBay listing photo)...

It looks like this one was originally a "teal blue" (peacock?) color, so my plan is to go with that. Having had some success with the earlier "33", I am rather looking forward to this one; it will be my first experience with the "Super Motor": anything I should know in advance?

You guys were right, this could become a real addiction!   

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Those are all really nice; thank you for posting. Is there a more common color scheme among these models?

Mark in Oregon

Completely non-statistical impression is that I see more gray and peacock #10s than other colors.  Again, I have no made an intentional survey or searched, but that is just my impression.

Here is my honey.  Mojave circa 1925.  All original which is what I like.  Long may she run.

That's great; I like that color very much.

Wow, a Standard Gauge "double header"! Is the second engine a #8? That's a lot of cars...🙂...too cool.

Mark in (wet) Oregon

Yes - a #8 indeed.

@William 1 posted:

Here is my honey.  Mojave circa 1925.  All original which is what I like.  Long may she run.

Question: this has the "strap" type headlights (as opposed to the die cast type), so I'm guessing this is an earlier example. When did the change from strap to die cast take place?

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

Question: this has the "strap" type headlights (as opposed to the die cast type), so I'm guessing this is an earlier example. When did the change from strap to die cast take place?

Mark in Oregon

Mark the Strap style was used 1918-1926 and the Die cast was used 1926 forward.

@Strummer posted:

Question: this has the "strap" type headlights (as opposed to the die cast type), so I'm guessing this is an earlier example. When did the change from strap to die cast take place?

Mark in Oregon

1926

Rich and Rob

Thank you gentlemen... 👍 🙂

Mark in Oregon

The project went in fit and spurts as time allowed but I finally have it cleaned up and reassembled.  I have a can of Mohave paint to return it to one of the true Lionel colors as the next phase of the project.  Wiring had to be replaced but the field coils and other components were still good.  Nickel pantograph will be replaced with brass when the brass is available.

COOL! 😀

@Joe Elliott the super motor cleaned up nicely compared to your first post. Did you replaced the wheels as well? It is hard to tell from the photo angle. Keep up the good work on saving this piece of history so it can be enjoyed for another century.

@Rich Wiemann posted:

@Joe Elliott the super motor cleaned up nicely compared to your first post. Did you replaced the wheels as well? It is hard to tell from the photo angle. Keep up the good work on saving this piece of history so it can be enjoyed for another century.

The caption for the motor photo mentions "new wheels", so I guess that means "yes"...(?)  I would like to see someone post a video (or a series of photos) showing that process...

Mark in Oregon

@Strummer posted:

The caption for the motor photo mentions "new wheels", so I guess that means "yes"...(?)  I would like to see someone post a video (or a series of photos) showing that process...

Mark in Oregon

Mark below is a link to how I replace the wheels on my prewar engines. Thanks for the clarification, I don’t typically look at the photo captions.

https://ogrforum.com/...8#148675927253563638

Yes, new wheels, pantograph, flag posts, bulbs and screws to mount the motor frame to the chassis (replacing the toothpicks that were used previously).  All wiring outside the motor itself was replaced.  All brass and steel parts were cleaned in an ultrasonic cleaner (from my clock cleaning days) then gently scrubbed, rinsed and dried.

@Strummer: A few years ago I asked for advice on this forum on how to replace the wheels on a Lionel 252 I was working on.  The tools below were recommended and have worked like a charm for me since.  I used a faucet puller to carefully pull the old wheels off.  Then the woodworkers vice to put the new wheels onto the cleaned axles.  I put the drive wheels onto the axles first in the vise one at a time.  Then I put the axles through the frame and put the other wheels on.  This allows the gear teeth to mesh without being forced.   That's been my method but I defer to others with more experience to describe other processes.

Here are some diagrams and parts list for the # 10 Electric. Hope this helps. Some parts are (B) for Brass and (N) for Nickel . I have a Gray 10E with a Super Motor and a 10E

Peacock with Orange Stripe with the Build a Loco Motor. Have fun.

Rich and Joe

Thanks for the info; if this SG madness continues I will probably have to do that at some point, so your posts are very helpful. 👍 🙂

Mark in Oregon