I've seen frames made up of L shaped girders. I'm getting ready to build the first stage of my layout and need some direction on how to do this. I figure there just has to be a book out there someplace.
Tom
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I've seen frames made up of L shaped girders. I'm getting ready to build the first stage of my layout and need some direction on how to do this. I figure there just has to be a book out there someplace.
Tom
Replies sorted oldest to newest
There is - check out this thread and Linn Wescott's book.
https://ogrforum.com/...8#101525536371500628
DoubleDAZ posted:
I second that. I made mine using 1X2 flange and 1X3 web. Glue is the important thing. Some people remove the screws after the glue has cured. The continuous "weld" provided by the glue is what makes it a structural beam.
Just what I was looking for. Thanks for the help.
This is the 3rd layout I've built since I was a kid. All of them have had the same construction: 1"X4" ladder frames held together with wood screws, 1/2" plywood tops screwed on with wood screws, 2"X4" legs bolted on. Plenty strong. Strong enough that I can get on the layout without issue (I weigh 158lbs). Might be overkill but it is simple and works.
I too used the Wescott book. Purchased all my lumber at Menard's (1x4s) all 12' long. Ripped the 12 footers in half length wise and used those for the tops of the girders and leg supports. My longest span is 24' with a butt joint between them with a 2 foot over lap glued on both sides. Everything is glued and screwed. All of the joist are 12 to 16 inches on center, screwed only in case they needed to be moved a little. I ripped lame beams for the legs which came out to 1 3/4 x1 3/4 (2x2s) with adjustable feet on the bottoms. 1/2" OSB screwed on top for the deck. I'm 210lbs and never thought twice about if it would hold my weight.
You can do a lot with premium grade white fir framing (2" X 4"). Premium grade tends to be pricey at the big box stores, but most contractors, who understand quality framing materials, will move-on, from spruce, and cheaper grade lumber, to the better stuff. IMO. I also used an expensive MDO (Medium density overlay) board that was a smooth painter's sign board material. Good A/C grade plywood just as good, and cheaper than MDO.
Framing.
Finish, almost.
I started with Mianne benchwork, it's topped with 1/2" birch multi-ply, and then 1/2" Homasote. The fascia was then added with all the curves.
Plywood and Homasote in place.
Completed main table.
A friend owns a book store and ordered me a copy of Linn Westcott's book. I picked it up about an hour ago and now the work begins....starting with doubling the dimensions of everything so I can run my O27 trains on O scale track.
Thanks for the help guys and gals. I appreciate the support I get on this site.
I am still a farmer in my mind, so I used 2X4s, 1x6s and 3/4 inch plywood. Glued and screwed, bolted to the cement floor here and there.
My benches were very simple I used a frame of pine 6X1 edges and 4X1 crossmembers the reason for the 6 inch pine on the edges I like to run the wires in ducting nothing hanging anywhere the layout is wired using industrial components to meet insurance requirements they didn't ask I just did it the Insurance rep was impressed. The layout is wired better than the house. Roo.
Roo, the lower right corner of your photo, could we have a centered close up? There seems to be some serious electrical detail work there. Nice looking, clean work!
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