Has anybody ever used this material?
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I have used it. Good product, however it takes some time to dry (3 - 4 days).
If you want something that dries faster, try sculptamold.
Used it for a small layout. The texture takes some getting used to, but it's light, easy to use, and you can keep it usable for several days by keeping it in a covered bowl and rewetting it. Cleans up a lot easier than plaster. Supposedly, you can reactivate it by wetting it if you need to modify or repair something, but I haven't tried doing so. Give it a try and decide for yourself - that's the great thing about scenery - if you don't like the result, tear it out and start again, and you haven't lost much money.
I visited the booth at York in the orange hall near trainworld and the people gave me a lengthy demo of what seems to be a great product. I will try it in the future for sure.
I have used quite a lot of it ,& yes you can re-wet it & it will come up easy ,just spray some water on it & remove .
We love the stuff! Here are a few photos -
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Lionel Grandpa posted:We love the stuff! Here are a few photos -
Your work is the best I've seen using this. Bill Dimemna, the original distributor for it, had some nice scenes on his layout. Our club uses it quite a bit. I've tried it with mixed results and will probably give it another try on my new layout.
i am person that brought fusion fiber to market...The issue of drying time I considered a benefit...The drying time issue allows one to add scenery materials and work at reasonable pace..Second , most beginner users tend to add to much water. The amount of water added should be such that a spoonful sticks to a spoon when turned over, and NOT pour able.
Third, its a completely different way of doing scenery..Most want to use it like they use sculpamold and other plaster products and therefore don't end up taking advantage of its properties of adding texture , and the ease by which basic scenery materials, stumps, logs, and ground cover can be added.
Did nearly my whole layout with product, under various conditions, including vertical cuts. My rock formations were of traditional variety, rubber or natural. Ancillary pieces was fusion fiber tinted and lumped. Not a single drop of scenery glue was needed
Also used it for all my static grass applications..
just as a note, I was able to run trains and it wasn't necessary to cover track in tape, etc. while doing all my scenery work.
for best effect, its best to have scenery materials to use soon after application of fusion fiber (within a day). I usually did scenery directly on fusion fiber within the time it takes to drink one beer, or coffee depending on time of day. This negates the need for any glue. Nice thing about this method is your scenery never grays out over time.
another link
tinting: Have used everything from acrylic paints, latex paints, and tinting powders. Usually tint at least two color batches. After making paste you can add highlight stripes by adding some more paint of highlight color(s) and not mixing completely. The effect is shown below.
The business is now owned by Duggan Frank of scenerysolutions.com
wsdimenna posted:i am person that brought fusion fiber to market...The issue of drying time I considered a benefit...The drying time issue allows one to add scenery materials and work at reasonable pace..Second , most beginner users tend to add to much water. The amount of water added should be such that a spoonful sticks to a spoon when turned over, and NOT pour able.
Third, its a completely different way of doing scenery..Most want to use it like they use sculpamold and other plaster products and therefore don't end up taking advantage of its properties of adding texture , and the ease by which basic scenery materials, stumps, logs, and ground cover can be added.
Did nearly my whole layout with product, under various conditions, including vertical cuts. My rock formations were of traditional variety, rubber or natural. Ancillary pieces was fusion fiber tinted and lumped.
Also used it for all my static grass applications..
just as a note, I was able to run trains and it wasn't necessary to cover track in tape, etc. while doing all my scenery work.
for best effect, its best to have scenery materials to use soon after application of fusion fiber (within a day). I usually did scenery directly on fusion fiber within the time it takes to drink one beer, or coffee depending on time of day. This negates the need for any glue. Nice thing about this method is your scenery never grays out over time.
another link
I was just looking at your photos. This one with the M1a1 was pretty cool (M1A1006) https://www.flickr.com/photos/...m-72157626832565639/
There are 1/2 dozen of them. Layouts are to play on 
We are Harrison Trains and Scenes, an OGR Magazine advertiser and the dealer in the Orange Hall at York that does the demonstrations of the product. Fusion Fiber can be purchased from our web sight at the following url: http://www.harrisontrains.com/fusionfiber.htm
You can see, in this thread, the superb scenery work that others have done with Fusion Fiber. Bravo, to them!
Our contact information is on our web site if you have any questions about it or other of our fine products.
Happy railroading.
I really like using it. I mixed acrylic paints with it for earth color and added ground foam and rocks. No extra glue, just wet water. Here are a few pictures.
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John H posted:
I really like using it. I mixed acrylic paints with it for earth color and added ground foam and rocks. No extra glue, just wet water. Here are a few pictures.
Bravo! Great scenery work with Fusion Fiber!
I used it quite a lot, good stuff Bill put out for us modelers 
I use an old 3 quart pot I got at the local thrift store to mix it in and apply it using a small trowel, color the fiber first (mix paint in the water).
I also sprinkle ground foam on it while it's wet and press it in with a small paint roller.
I also used a length of cardboard to keep the stuff away from the track, just move it along as you go.
It does take 3-4 days to dry, don't get it too soupy or it'll take longer, I'd say maybe like slightly thick pancake batter.
If you put it on a flat surface (plywood) and decide later to take it up, it can be done using a flat chisel or wet and try to loosen it up that way (that way's too messy for me, I'd rather spend more $$$ and get more fiber than have water dripping all over the place).
I don't think I have any decent photos, but I'll look and post if I find any.
Bob Delbridge posted:I used it quite a lot, good stuff Bill put out for us modelers
I use an old 3 quart pot I got at the local thrift store to mix it in and apply it using a small trowel, color the fiber first (mix paint in the water).
I also sprinkle ground foam on it while it's wet and press it in with a small paint roller.
I also used a length of cardboard to keep the stuff away from the track, just move it along as you go.
It does take 3-4 days to dry, don't get it too soupy or it'll take longer, I'd say maybe like slightly thick pancake batter.
If you put it on a flat surface (plywood) and decide later to take it up, it can be done using a flat chisel or wet and try to loosen it up that way (that way's too messy for me, I'd rather spend more $$$ and get more fiber than have water dripping all over the place).
I don't think I have any decent photos, but I'll look and post if I find any.
Bill and his wife Maria made a Fusion Fiber believer out of me and my son, Chris to the point that we became Fusion Fiber retailers and began doing demonstrations at the northeastern United States train shows when Bill and Maria moved to Florida. We sell quite a bit of it now. It is available on Harrison Trains and Scenes web site at http://www.harrisontrains.com/fusionfiber.htm. We are a proud OGR Magazine advertiser.
