Yep, my comments were all about the scale E6 models, they dance around way more than most other locomotives.
Because of this thread I just ran my 1999 Lionel E6, # 6-28005, just to see.
I have to say I can detect no "wobble", "bounce" or "dance" in any way. It runs very smoothly, looks great doing so, and like the prototype, is a real speed demon.
Perhaps I just got lucky...(?)
Mark in Oregon
Strummer posted:Because of this thread I just ran my 1999 Lionel E6, # 6-28005, just to see.
I have to say I can detect no "wobble", "bounce" or "dance" in any way. It runs very smoothly, looks great doing so, and like the prototype, is a real speed demon.
Perhaps I just got lucky...(?)
Mark in Oregon
I checked the parts diagram of the frame of this model but it looks different than the current E6 especially just forward of the front wheel, that area looks shorter than the current frame and can't tell what is ahead of the front wheel.
Rick
Here's a photo of the front end, if that helps:
Hmm...not a great picture, is it? 
Lemme know if you'd like a better one.
I do know that the front screws that hold the body to the frame on this particular model are located just behind the pony truck; not recessed into the cylinder casing, so it's much easier to access those. (My similar-vintage H-9 has them inside the cylinders, so they can be a PITA...)
Mark in Oregon
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A careful balancing job will do more for the E6 than most steamers. The improved pulling ability happens when all four drivers are firmly planted on the rails, rather than the stock tail heavy imbalance lifting up half of the drivers. Without weighting, a method of spring loading the trailing truck to force the front end down would better approximate how a real E6 is equalized. Having equalized suspension in this manner also helps negate bobbing or other Ill handling characteristics set up by harmonic vibrations.
Been there with Lionel 's first scale E6 from 1999 and now again with the recent release. Hmmmm? Groundhog day is tomorrow.
Bruce
Thanks Mark and Bruce!
Mark: to do a comparison of the frame on your 6-28005 to mine above, you would have to remove the shell (maybe not a good idea if yours is running well) and see the structure of the frame ahead of the motor. I looked at the parts breakdown here of : https://www.lionelsupport.com/...1e-892c-122e205144e3 and looked at the frame - item 31 - and it looks like it is shorter but too dark to see what is there ahead of the motor.
Bruce: took a look at the rear truck and the spring there pushing it down is really weak; bet a stronger one would be better; something to consider along with a bit of weight up front. Oregon!! Here in Fla it was 74 today
. Now, where can one get springs?
gunrunnerHere's your added weight, just figure how many will fit.
GRJ, was that car spotted at a speedloader facility? 
Tuscan Jim posted:GRJ, was that car spotted at a speedloader facility?
How did you guess? 
So is this an isolated problem with the Atlantic or do they all have this wobble?
BradFish1 posted:So is this an isolated problem with the Atlantic or do they all have this wobble?
I think they all do, mine certenly does. I plan to add some weight inside the smoke box sometime soon.
My Legacy E6 has plenty of other issues (currently on it's 3rd trip back to Lionel) but I did not notice any "wobbling" issue. It tracked very well on my layout and appeared to ride very smooth.
BradFish1 posted:So is this an isolated problem with the Atlantic or do they all have this wobble?
Any locomotive that is supported by only four wheels will be a lot more likely to wobble. Many Atlantic models do, but I'm sure some don't. However, all the ones I've had wobble. Interestingly enough, my K-Line A-5 is rock solid, no wobbling like the Atlantic locos.
BradFish1 posted:So is this an isolated problem with the Atlantic or do they all have this wobble?
? What's "all"?
I'm curious, do the A6 Atlantic's have this same issue(s)? I completely forgot those were out there. One would think since the engine would be the same design or at least most of it, that it would most likely have the same issues. Anyone know?
While I have no first hand experience, I suspect they might have similar issues.
I have two of these engines I will have to fix up. I haven't popped them open as yet, or run them so that is a good thing. I'll have to get GRJ's tape and weights. How many weights should be popped in there?
Truthfully, as long as you keep it balanced, I suspect it's pretty hard to add too much weight. For the HHP-8, I added over a pound, and it had an amazing effect. The engine was pretty light at four pounds, and another 18 ounces had a positive effect that was way more than I expected.
Weight would probably squeeze in tight and a little bit of glue or such to keep them from jumping around. Question is, what kind of glue?
Walther's Goo works great, and they'll never come off!
So, a follow up to my original post: the wire coming from the headlight was indeed broken, after repairing that the headlight is back and as strong as ever.
I picked up a pack of pine wood derby car weights and added about 1oz to that void ahead of the bluetooth board. Comically, it seems to have made it worse, as the wobble is more pronounced now. I suppose that's not surprising if not enough weight is added. More of the story: 1oz is not enough to smooth out the wobble....
Stephen, mine does not move laterally but bobs up and down; I added the following golf club weights from Amazon - maybe 1-2 ozs - and that didn't noticeably change the bobbing. I may consider adding more weight. GRJ added about 18oz to his. If I do, I will try the pine wood weights; I like the golf club ones because they were coated and had sticky bottoms but very expensive - around $8 for 10 squares to get you 1-2 ozs.
Hmm, 18oz in weights. How did that fit in there GRJ?
You missed my point. I was showing you the weights I used and how to attach them, not saying I could fit all those into a steamer! There were actually added to a diesel, the HHP-8.
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gunrunnerjohn posted:You missed my point. I was showing you the weights I used and how to attach them, not saying I could fit all those into a steamer! There were actually added to a diesel, the HHP-8.
I did take note of that, and was going off of what someone else said you did, my bad. I actually was over reading on the other post that Jeff AKA PENNSY484(just now) and I agree with what someone had said there(which is the same as you here GRJ), there needs to be balance. The person over there said that the weight should be distributed over the drivers(in the middle) on not on the front. I am guessing with what little room that there is on the Atlantic to begin with this is extremely difficult. So, for me, I think I will tackle one thing at a time. Get things taped up first so there are no wires getting shredded to pieces, and then see if I can handle the bobbing, if I need to. I was only ever going to run maybe 3 or 4 passenger cars behind it if that. See what comes up.
Thanks again John.
OOPS, this business of 18 oz is my bad: GRJ added about 18oz to his.' He was speaking of adding that weight to his HHP-8 and not the E6. I mis-stated GRJ.
gunrunnerjohn posted:You missed my point. I was showing you the weights I used and how to attach them, not saying I could fit all those into a steamer! There were actually added to a diesel, the HHP-8.
Correction, the HHP-8 isn't a diesel, it's an electric. You should know better John. 
Is that what all that stuff on the roof is for?
Finally got to preventive repairs on my two Atlantic's. Thank you all for helping bringing this to light and how to fix.
Screws were probably the hardest thing for me, lol. I had to find the really tiny screw driver. I think I may need to invest in some tools.
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Steven, did you ever get a resolution to your headlight issue? I am now having the same issue with mine. I opened mine up and the wiring all seems to be ok.
After returning my E6 to Lionel for a short in the trucks problem - https://ogrforum.com/...e-e6-showed-up-today - Lionel left all my Kapton tape on the wires in place - pretty much the same as Dave's above.
